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Atari stamp and stencil

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Recently, I have been creating and 3D-printing stamps and stencils for a friend. This one had to be created, too :)

 

The stamp STL file is 2mm high. 1mm for the stamp and 1mm for the "pancake" it's attached to. The stencil STL file is 1mm high.

 

Import the file in your favorite slicer. Scale XYZ uniformly to your desired size (e.q. 20cmx20cm), then scale Z-axis to size. I recommend at least 6mm for the stamp (3mm stamp/3mm handle) and 0.6mm for the stencil (3 layers of 0.2mm)

 

I printed those at 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, PETG. PLA should work, too, but ink sticks better to PETG. Tried Flex filament (shore hardness 45D), but I saw no improvement. Might try 35D, but for now it's all PETG, which is my favorite fillament :)

 

Most people I have seen online, creating stamps, recommend to print stamps with the stamp side up. I disagree. Print it with the stamp side down and with support. Sure, after removing the support, it doesn't look as nice as printing the other way around without support, but the business end of your stamp will be FLAT right away, because of the printing bed. No need to sand it. If you insist on printing with stamp side up, use 200 grid sanding paper and slowly work your way up to 800 grid.

 

Two quick examples.

 

Stamp with support and the resulting print. The R and I where not inked enough. Some other samples looked better, but had other parts not inked enough :) Two-bit inkpad...

 

atari-stamp-slic3r.jpg.d3a1da6ee867b30521f13347b5d5d54b.jpg   atari-stamp-example.jpg.5b61fab7f694119dd3d0d56e25c6c6e2.jpg 

 

 

Stencil and quick fineliner pen example. Better use an ink roller, or a stencil brush.

 

atari-stencil-slic3r.jpg.cb4631806b1017e8afbf84b9ae15bd74.jpg   atari-stencil-example.jpg.77539e634536b2cbdb6d544674d35166.jpg

 

If you print it, please post your prints in this thread :) I'd love to see them, and the resulting analog prints ;)

 

 

 

Atari Logo Stamp.stl Atari Logo Stencil.stl

Edited by ivop
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Here's another one. Logo only.

 

atari-logo-only-stamp.jpg.56c6ef171934bca4eff49551f5cf97c5.jpg   atari-logo-only.jpg.8ef51652a8dcc88b5eb6eb91df5bae2a.jpg

 

The STL file is 2mm high again, 1mm stamp, 1mm pancake ;)  Scale to size in your slicer. The analog prints were done with a 6mm high stamp (total z-size) and a cheap inkpad.

 

To finish your stamp, you can glue a piece of wood on top of it. That way, it's easier to handle and you don't get ink/paint on your fingers :)

Atari Logo Just Logo Stamp.stl

Edited by ivop
typo
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Also, perhaps print 1mm thicker, and after the print is done, some fine 320 or 400 grit sandpaper will make a nice smooth surface.

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45 minutes ago, Stephen said:

Also, perhaps print 1mm thicker,

That's what I meant with scale to size. I just modelled it at 1mm stamp and 1mm baseplate, but after that I scale the STL model in my slicer (Slic3r in my case). Scale XY to whatever percentage (larger, smaller), and then scale Z axis to 6mm, i.e. 3mm stamp and 3mm baseplate. Or 8mm, or whatever thickness you want  :)

 

Quote

and after the print is done, some fine 320 or 400 grit sandpaper will make a nice smooth surface.

Regarding sanding, in my first post I tried to point out that by printing it stamp side down with support, you don't need sanding :) I print on glass with 3DLAC (which is basically very sticky hairspray without perfume). Stamp side is smooth as a baby's bottom :)

 

 

Edit: sorry, perhaps you meant 1mm extra on top of what I already said. I'm a bit tired, and maybe I misunderstood you.

 

Edited by ivop
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No worries.  My 3D printer gave up the ghost a while back now.  Sometimes I miss it, then I remember all the grief it gave me and it's like missing a long ago ex.  They are an ex for a reason :)

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Here's the ATARI letters standing up. Can be used as a stamp, but was mostly created because of its decorative value :) Depending on the finishing quality of either the top or bottom of your prints, I added a flipped stl for your convenience. The photo is of a scaled version, printed diagonally on my 12x12 bed.

 

748024594_AtariLettersStandingUp.thumb.jpg.5c489b0c1b3004f8cae7044dce550bbd.jpg

 

 

ATARI with stand - 10mm.stl ATARI with stand - flipped - 10mm.stl

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Wait -- how well do these work for stamping?  

 

I know some teachers who might be interested in this concept, and the local public library has a 3D printer free for use...

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Both of those are epic, wish I had a 3D printer now...No such library one's (that I've seen)

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8 hours ago, DavidD said:

Wait -- how well do these work for stamping?  

 

I know some teachers who might be interested in this concept, and the local public library has a 3D printer free for use...

 

The second post was specifically designed as a stamp, the last two stands are not, but can be used as such as well. Print them high enough, and glue to a piece of wood, so it won't wobble.

 

As for the stamping quality, it's a trade off between looks of the physical stamp and looks of the resulting image on paper. To maximize the latter, I print the business end downwards, to assure a perfectly flat finish. This needs support though, so the non-image part of the stamp side will need some cleaning and look sub-par. If you print with the handle down, the top won't be perfectly flat, even though it looks it is. You need to sand it with up to 400 or 800 grit.

 

Then material. Some people print stamp with PLA, but I found (my) ink not having enough adhesion to the stamp. That changed after I started printing with PETG. Adhesion is fine! I also tried TPU Flex Jupiter (shore hardness 45D), but saw no improvement compared to PETG. And it has many downsides. You have to print very, very slow, or it will clog your extruder. Most bowden extruders are out of the question anyway. Try imagining you have to push a rubber band through a drinking straw... Not gonna work. So print at 15-20mm/s. Minimum nozzle of 0.4mm. Best with layer height at 0.1mm. So overall you'll be printing somewhere like four times slower. And if the result is not flat enough, you can hardly sand it. You get a roughed up rubber look.

 

So, PETG is my recommendation. PLA/PETG/TPU are all non toxic BTW. PLA does smell a bit, but PETG is practically odorless.

Edited by ivop

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Space Invaders!

 

 

1234580685_SpaceInvader1-10mm--slicer.jpg.ae6f7e4ec2cb8b19dd0ceee66ee6d57e.jpg

 

740019443_SpaceInvader1-10mm--example.jpg.472715c138f53da65cb6205d492c4f8f.jpg

 

Pixelated (cubilated??) it myself. Added four sub-pixels so all pixels (cuboids) are connected and it can stand upright. Cubes are 10x10x10mm. Sub-cubes are 2x2x10mm but not aligned to the 10x10 grid. They share 1x1x10mm with each voxel they touch :)

 

 

Space Invader 1 - 10mm.stl

Edited by ivop

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Ha ha...Excellent...

 

How long did they take to print?

Edited by Mclaneinc
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1 hour ago, Mclaneinc said:

How long did they take to print?

Small version:

 

- from 28.72 mm to 91.29 mm in X and is 62.57 mm wide
- from 36.22 mm to 83.79 mm in Y and is 47.57 mm deep
- from 0.00 mm to 5.00 mm in Z and is 5.00 mm high
Estimated duration: 25 layers, 0:42:41

 

Large version:

 

- from 1.22 mm to 118.79 mm in X and is 117.57 mm wide
- from 16.22 mm to 103.79 mm in Y and is 87.57 mm deep
- from 0.00 mm to 10.00 mm in Z and is 10.00 mm high
Estimated duration: 50 layers, 3:30:09

 

IIRC both took slightly longer, i.e. 55 minutes and 4 hours respectively.

 

Edit: PETG at 225°C, bed at 50°C for 1st layer, room temperature for the rest. 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm steel nozzle, 40% infill.

 

 

Edited by ivop

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Thanks for the info ivop, they do look great....But, ouch, the time they take but I guess its not something you do every day..

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47 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said:

but I guess its not something you do every day.

Actually, it's something I have been doing almost everyday ever since I resurrected my 3D printer a while ago :)

 

I printed around 60 stamps and stencils for a friend. Some were specifically designed for her needs for workshops at after-school daycare. A Kryoflux enclosure for another friend. Useless calibration cubes. And some decorative stuff. And cookie cutters. And lots and lots of faulty prints because of wildly varying reasons :)

 

But, as we say in The Netherlands, it keeps you of the streets ;)

 

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Got myself some new colours :) (bad lighting atm)

 

pacman-and-ghost.jpg.623593546f4ba680d8a285fb67916160.jpg

 

Working on a multi-colour ghost, i.e. body, eyes and pupils. For now they are reliefs, as in a difference in height elevation.

 

 

ghost2.stl pacman.stl

Edited by ivop
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Multicolor Blinky!

 

blinky-multicolor.thumb.jpg.fce49b471d3d085d82eb57c30f90a010.jpg

 

Voxels are 5x5x5mm, but model can obviously be scaled to your 40x40x40cm printbed :)

 

Edit: white is 0.5mm lower and blue is 0.5mm higher, like in the single color print above. If you want, you can scale that back to 5mm z-axis for all models, before you uniformly scale the whole model.

 

 

ghost2-body.stl ghost2-eyes.stl ghost2-pupils.stl

Edited by ivop
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Idea for a multijoy game. Five persons. One person controls Pac-Man. Four people control Blinky, Pinky, Inky and Clyde. After death, Round-robin the players one, two or three full rounds and count the points gathered by each player. Perhaps extra points for being the ghost that catches Pac-Man. For less than five players, Clyde(Inky(Pinky)) could also be computer controlled.

Edited by ivop
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On 8/19/2020 at 8:26 PM, ivop said:

A Kryoflux enclosure for another friend.

And I am very happy with all the stuff you sent me 🙂 Thank you @ivop 👍👍👍

 

20200824_142913.thumb.jpg.a71fe3b6fc2bc895f1d041b3a2a47656.jpg20200824_143756.thumb.jpg.b865e79e4af28be16f39380f7b994e68.jpg

Edited by Fred_M
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On 8/22/2020 at 5:14 PM, ivop said:

Idea for a multijoy game. Five persons. One person controls Pac-Man. Four people control Blinky, Pinky, Inky and Clyde. After death, Round-robin the players one, two or three full rounds and count the points gathered by each player. Perhaps extra points for being the ghost that catches Pac-Man. For less than five players, Clyde(Inky(Pinky)) could also be computer controlled.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pac-Man_Vs

 

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Obviously somebody else thought about multi-player Pac-Man :)  

 

 

Here's one for the multi-platform fans, like @Janzl ;)

 

c64-logo-red.jpg.2d54234dcf11d54968bc811bb09293a6.jpg

 

c64-logo-and-letters.jpg.01e74c4557ff2ad6735e4696a1b1551e.jpg

 

As usual, scale the STL files within your slicer to the preferred sizes. The logo is 11x11cm and 11mm deep. My printer goes to 11. The letters are printed at 4mm thickness.

 

Edit: typo

 

C64 Letters.stl C64 Logo.stl

Edited by ivop

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It's a pity my printer doesn't go much beyond 11x11x11cm though ;) That's the downside of being an early adopter. For the money I invested in the hardware, upgrade and all, I could easily buy a 30x30x30cm printer at this moment.

 

 

Here are two more other platform logos.

 

100517386_MSXLogo.jpg.c368d2919732676527116651ca2d299c.jpg

 

30542563_NintendoLogo.jpg.92ca207a36d96f174fa8299092ea6e42.jpg

 

Next models will be Atari (related) again :)

 

 

MSX Logo.stl Nintendo Logo.stl

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