Tomy Tutor keyboard group buy interest

[Mobsie]

Wow, this is 👍 

[Mobsie]

I got my 3 boards from Dan today, so great. Thank you. Now I can order the other parts.

 

 

[+dhe]

As far as putting one of these together, Acadiel is way way out in front of me.

 

There is a service that you upload *.stl files to that I have used in the past.

There automated software check keeps failing on the keyboard bezel .stl.

I'm working with the tech that actually runs the machines, so maybe next week I will have the bezel.

 

Acadiel had a friend of his print his bezel, and the software they used needed access to the whole zip, so this might be a step that trips up the less 3d printing experienced.

 

But, eventually will figure this out and make it easier for the next person.

 

[+acadiel]

49 minutes ago, dhe said:

As far as putting one of these together, Acadiel is way way out in front of me.

 

There is a service that you upload *.stl files to that I have used in the past.

There automated software check keeps failing on the keyboard bezel .stl.

I'm working with the tech that actually runs the machines, so maybe next week I will have the bezel.

 

Acadiel had a friend of his print his bezel, and the software they used needed access to the whole zip, so this might be a step that trips up the less 3d printing experienced.

 

But, eventually will figure this out and make it easier for the next person.

 

 

I had a friend who "sliced" and "split" (his words not mine) the 3D STL model - the single .stl file wasn't enough - he had to download the whole GitHub archive to get the files he needed to print.  He cut the model in two for me to make it big enough to print.    I'm waiting for him to mail it to me.  Supposedly, I can superglue it or just some kind of other glue to get it to adhere.

 

I have the PCB, switches on order, key extension kit, a whole set of keycaps (from my Keychron keyboard), the pin headers, right angle headers, and jumpers... so I'm about ready to go - just need to get all the parts in.  Will post pics here as I make progress.

 

 

 

 

[+jedimatt42]

It has to be split, or it will be useless.

 

Don't glue it together prior to inserting the PCB... notice the grooves... the pcb goes there.

 

I split mine square close to natural locations, for the Ender 3 when I printed it... there was probably commented out code in the OpenSCAD source.

 

Afterwards, I used plastic putty to reduce the seem, and then painted it up.

[+acadiel]

Getting there.  Have the headers and key caps too.... just need to solder up and wait for the 3D part to come in. 

[+acadiel]

More progress. Need to wait for my bezel to come in and figure the transparent key caps printing thing out.

[wierd_w]

Is there a maximum size restriction on the printing service for these .stl files?

 

It might be possible to do one that does not need to be split, with some rethinking of the PCB retention.

[+Ksarul]

10 hours ago, wierd_w said:

Is there a maximum size restriction on the printing service for these .stl files?

 

It might be possible to do one that does not need to be split, with some rethinking of the PCB retention.

It has to be split, as the circuit card fits into a set of slots on either half of the frame to ensure stability. A single frame piece would probably require addition of screws which might also change thickness of the frame and possibly impact the ability to fit into the Tutor case. Of course, one could also make snap-in rail pieces that replace one or more of the slots in there now, as that would allow board insertion and maintain the stability too.

[wierd_w]

it might be possible to print "retainer clips".

 

 

Since the legs would be vertical, it might be doable.

 

Then it could be monolithic.

[+Ksarul]

5 hours ago, wierd_w said:

it might be possible to print "retainer clips".

 

 

Since the legs would be vertical, it might be doable.

 

Then it could be monolithic.

Clips "might" work. I say that only from the standpoint of long-term stability for something that is going to take a lot of daily punishment from the typist using the keyboard (and just general cracking as the frame ages--something seen a lot in the cases Myarc used for most of their circuit cards (made in the same molds TI used for their later plastic card cases, which also have this problem)). That was why I went with the full-rail idea locking into a slot on the upper frame to provide that support over the entire length of the keyboard circuit card. All ideas are good though. Whatever works best in practice is what is important here.

[+acadiel]

Got my bracket in today from my friend in FL.  He’s pretty reasonable for printing them, too.  Also, got him to print me some TI PI and SAMS cases. 

[+acadiel]

Solder the arrow keys and MOD key last to fit the 3D frame on.  

[+acadiel]

Had to use a dremel on the bottom of the keyboard to make it fit.  The OEM Pyuuta keyboard is 1mm longer on the top part a and the bottom part is 1mm shorter (and angled).  

[+acadiel]

Changed the key caps a bit, and it works well.  

[ElectricLab]

On 10/25/2020 at 11:42 PM, wierd_w said:

Chemistry *IS* technology bruh. O.o  If we ever get programmable matter, it will come from chemists.

 

The idea here though, is to demonstrate how the leap from "3d printed prototype" to "quality resin" is really just a few hours of work.  (assuming you have a good workspace.)

The cool factor of a 3D printer is being able to design digitally, and produce a real object fast.  Once you have the real object, you can mass replicate it easily. That's the point here.

 

Making cool stuff for your computer hobby also overlaps with sexy enclosures and such.  It feels real good to make something that looks as good as it works.  I want to share that feeling.

I used to make my own PCBs back in the 80s, etching with ferric chloride. We used to just use sharpies and/or the transfers from Radio Shack that you'd place over the copper-clad and scribble with a pencil to transfer to the board. Then we'd bathe and agitate it until the unwanted copper sloughed away. In high school, we had a bath with an aquarium pump connected to a piece of hose, snaked across the bottom of the tub to keep things bouncing around and (hopefully) etching evenly. I remember doing it at home in a baking pan that reacted with the etchant and made a huge mess  Good times. Nowadays it's easy to use a shop like Oshpark to make boards from your supplied gerbers.  

 

[+dhe]

Acadiel,

  I'll bet your words per minute drastically increased! Congratulations, your the first to finish the project. W00t W00T!!!

[Mobsie]

👍 Great 

[+acadiel]

3 hours ago, dhe said:

Acadiel,

  I'll bet your words per minute drastically increased! Congratulations, your the first to finish the project. W00t W00T!!!

Thanks!

 

I'd love to find in the ROM which character is displayed when which key is pressed - I want to remap the keyboard to a more standard layout so I can remove those stickers.  We need to start a disassembly project to help with this, and then I can hex edit the ROM to emit a different ASCII code when a certain key is pressed.  For example, the shift-2 should give a @ instead of a ".  I mean, if we're going to go all out to give it a regular keyboard, might as well make it a standard layout. 

 

Here's changes that are needed:

Key		Emits		Should be
Shift-2		"			@
Shift-6		&			^
Shift-7		'			&
Shift-8		(			*
Shift-9		)			(
Shift-0		=			)
Shift-;		+			:
Shift -		beta/note		_
:		:			'
shift-:		*			"
o		o			=
shift-o		^			+
_		_			o
shift-_		@			beta/note

note:  o is a small "whole note" type of character
	b is "beta" or "quarter note"

 

[+jedimatt42]

11 hours ago, dhe said:

Acadiel,

  I'll bet your words per minute drastically increased! Congratulations, your the first to finish the project. W00t W00T!!!

I wouldn't call that finished. 

[+dhe]

You know I had this exact same problem today.

 

I was playing with retropie, and this exact same problem occured in vi, until I went to raspberry pi config utility and switched from GR > US keyboard configuration and local....

 

Key		Emits		Should be
Shift-2		"			@

 

 

 

 

[+acadiel]

2 hours ago, jedimatt42 said:

I wouldn't call that finished. 

Operational, yes.  Most of the keycaps there, yes.  Keycap work to be done?  Yes.  Closing the 3D gap - don't have any idea how.

 

Largely done, though except for cosmetics.  Functionality is 100% finished.

 

[+acadiel]

18 hours ago, acadiel said:

Operational, yes.  Most of the keycaps there, yes.  Keycap work to be done?  Yes.  Closing the 3D gap - don't have any idea how.

 

Largely done, though except for cosmetics.  Functionality is 100% finished.

 

This (US ROM 0 - on my Game Adapter, it's the block from around >19D0 to >1A8F appears to be where the keyboard characters are.

 

I'll have to mess around with it and flash an EPROM to see what impact these three stanzas have.  I have no idea why there's three - two CAPS and one lower case.

 

Offset(h) 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F

000019D0  0A 48 04 5B B7 A0 16 85 04 5B 21 22 51 57 41 53  .H.[· .….[!"QWAS
000019E0  5A 58 23 24 45 52 44 46 43 56 25 26 54 59 47 48  ZX#$ERDFCV%&TYGH
000019F0  42 4E 27 28 29 55 49 4A 4B 4D 3D 7C 4F 50 4C 2B  BN'()UIJKM=|OPL+
00001A00  3C 3E 00 00 5E 40 2A 7B 3F 7D 00 00 00 00 0D 00  <>..^@*{?}......

00001A10  F4 20 F3 F0 F2 F1 00 00 00 00 31 32 51 57 41 53  ô óðòñ....12QWAS
00001A20  5A 58 33 34 45 52 44 46 43 56 35 36 54 59 47 48  ZX34ERDFCV56TYGH
00001A30  42 4E 37 38 39 55 49 4A 4B 4D 30 2D 4F 50 4C 3B  BN789UIJKM0-OPL;
00001A40  2C 2E 00 00 5C 5F 3A 5B 2F 5D 00 00 00 00 0D 00  ,...\_:[/]......

00001A50  F4 20 F3 F0 F2 F1 00 00 00 00 31 32 71 77 61 73  ô óðòñ....12qwas
00001A60  7A 78 33 34 65 72 64 66 63 76 35 36 74 79 67 68  zx34erdfcv56tygh
00001A70  62 6E 37 38 39 75 69 6A 6B 6D 30 2D 6F 70 6C 3B  bn789uijkm0-opl;
00001A80  2C 2E 00 00 5C 5F 3A 5B 2F 5D 00 00 00 00 0D 00  ,...\_:[/]......

 

[+acadiel]

There appear to be 17 changes needed if this is indeed the keymap.  I'm going to try these when I get time and see if this fixes my keyboard mapping.  Then, we're down to just needing a MON and MOD keycap (and I need another SHIFT that fits).

1. Shift code block - >19D0->1A05.  Keyboard characters are from >19DA to >1A09.   Unknowns:  >19D0 to >19D9 and >1A0A->1A0F.  Possible modifiers.
2. CAPS code block - >1A10->1A4F.  Keyboard characters are from >1A1A to >1A49.  Unknowns:  >1A10 to >1A19 and >1A4A->1A4F.
3. lower code block - >1A50->1A8F.  Keyboard characters are from >1A5A to >1A89.  Unknowns: >1A50->1A59 and >1A8A->1A8F.

Shift code block

Offset	Orig_ASCII	Changed_ASCII
19DB	"			@
19EB	&			^
19F2	'			&
19F3	(			*
19F4	)			(
19FA	=			)
19FB	>7C (quarter note)	_
19FF	+			;
1A04	^			+
1A05	@			>7C (quarter note)
1A06	*			"

CAPS Block

Offset	Orig_ASCII		Changed_ASCII
>1A44	>5C (whole note)	=
>1A45	_			>5C (whole note)
>1A46	:			'

lower case code block

Offset	Orig_ASCII		Changed_ASCII
1A84	>5C (whole note)	=
1A85	_			>5C (whole note)
1A86	:			'

 

[+acadiel]

And yes, the substitution worked.  I have a fully operational keyboard now, in the traditional style.  I was able to yank off the modified keycaps of all but a few keys:

• MOD
• MON
• the two music notes (I need to figure out how to generate these on a label maker)

I also need a proper right shift key (I want one that matches).  I don't know what to do about the 3D printed gap, but that's cosmetic.  The model isn’t beveled and needs to be reworked some.  Also, it butts up against the key caps, which is why I think the gap is there.  I’ve done my best. 

 

I've attached the modified Game Adapter BIOS.  You need to use a 27C512.

 

 

pyuta_game_adapter_27C512_modded_bios.zip