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On 1/12/2021 at 12:14 PM, dantist said:

lol, for real? I thought everything was cool by now with 5-11under.

 

Like I said, I've probably misunderstood your post.

As far as I know everything is cool between us as he stated in a post.  The admin put a block on it anyway.  ?

 

Ok, I remember.  That was back in the concept days...   The problem is with this type of LCD in the BL kits, they don't have a light reflector on the back with the rear polarizer.  The BL would always have to be on to some degree.  The transmissive LCDs need a light source.  Then it would need a separate hole in the case for a wheel potentiometer.  Then setup the pot so it controls a certain range of resistance or it would damage the BL unit.  The BL unit is 3V only and very low current.  So, a bit or work to have brightness control.  It's setup now with a fixed resistor size of 680 ohms.  That amount has a balance of brightness and current drain of 9mAh.   It's bright enough to see in bright room light but not too bright in low to dark room lighting and without a lot of drain.  If you use the next standard size smaller fixed resistor, the current drain increases.   But still, even with backlighting installed and playing a game,  todays 500mAh 9V batts lasts 20+ hrs. anyway.  The intel games like Connect 4, are 3 times the drain though.

Edited by rwburbage@msn.com
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2 hours ago, SavageMind said:

yep, if you have not gotten one yet expect the prices to start skyrocketing.  Glad I have a complete set of games a CIB Microvision :P 

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2 hours ago, SavageMind said:

Not even the backlit display :) - I made sure to buy my "broken" unit before the new screens coming out.  I think I did well - boxed MV with 3 additional boxed games for $65

 

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All of the LCD's have been shipped out. Check paypal or ebay tracking messages for delivery date. These LCDs have gone to several locations out of the states, Canada, Hungary, Spain, Italy and Germany. It's a world wide event!! ??

 

The MV units sent in for LCD installs will be completed over the weekend and shipped on 1-18ish.

 

Here is the rough final install page for the backlit LCD kits. Take a moment to review. Any questions, feedback please ask so I can make changes. https://voiceofthemummy.com/staging/microvision-backlit-lcd-install/

 

There has already been an account of the display lines issues from warped LCD trays.  Review the install notes about adding painter tape strips to the warped LCD trays where the large zebra connector sits.  Watch for factory masking tape or paperboard strips that fall out during the LCD tray disassembly.  Those paperboard strips need to be reinstalled.

Edited by rwburbage@msn.com
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On 1/14/2021 at 2:58 PM, thevnaguy said:

yep, if you have not gotten one yet expect the prices to start skyrocketing.  Glad I have a complete set of games a CIB Microvision :P 

I agree, with the display-mods the devices are likely to become more popular end expensive. I got one factory sealed (still is) for 80€ two years ago, that should be impossible now.

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I got mine back with the backlit LCD screen and it's amazing! I really do feel like my Microvision has a new lease on life. I like how the graphics seem to pop with the LCD and for me being able to play the Microvision at night even in dim or no lighting has been a game changer. I definitely use my Microvision a lot more than I ever have since buying it. Also battery life seems to be great. This was definitely one of my favorite gaming purchases of 2020. Curious to hear what folks think when they get theirs. Thank you Richard, this is excellent work!

High Score LCD.jpg

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14 hours ago, eebuckeye said:

I received mine back yesterday with backlit screen installed.. awesome!!! He even performed extra work on the units before sending them back to make sure they were perfect!  Thank you!! 

Nice!  Thanks.   It looks like taking these pots apart for cleaning will fix the jitters.  Cleaning spray might help, but may need a thorough cleaning.

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Are you actually taking the pots apart to clean, or only if necessary?  I was hoping a good spray would be enough...

 

Got one installed finally, and I love it!  It's so much fun to play the game in the dark.  :)
And I was ONE BLOCK away from clearing the wall a second time!!  Ahhh... 

Edited by Rik1138
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4 hours ago, Rik1138 said:

Are you actually taking the pots apart to clean, or only if necessary?  I was hoping a good spray would be enough...

 

Got one installed finally, and I love it!  It's so much fun to play the game in the dark.  :)
And I was ONE BLOCK away from clearing the wall a second time!!  Ahhh... 

I'm trying everything sometimes to get the jitters out of the paddle wheel.   I've completely disassembled the pot, cleaned and polished all contacts.  Added more tension to the contacts by bending.   Added tamiya contact lube and still has the jitters.   Jury is still out on the exact fix on this problem.   The pot travels along the wires to the board thru the large connector back to the game processor board thru the transistor and there is a cap on the board involved.  Lots of areas where contacts can be iffy.

 

Nice work!  Backlit is great.  Play it anywhere.  Well lit to dark. It stops the sunken display area shadow also.  Not sure why the display wasn't flush.

 

Did you use the install guide?  Any feedback on the guide, instructions pics?

 

Score?  191?   Ohh, that's going to be tough to beat.

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On 1/25/2021 at 10:18 PM, rwburbage@msn.com said:

I'm trying everything sometimes to get the jitters out of the paddle wheel.   I've completely disassembled the pot, cleaned and polished all contacts.  Added more tension to the contacts by bending.   Added tamiya contact lube and still has the jitters.   Jury is still out on the exact fix on this problem.   The pot travels along the wires to the board thru the large connector back to the game processor board thru the transistor and there is a cap on the board involved.  Lots of areas where contacts can be iffy.

 

Nice work!  Backlit is great.  Play it anywhere.  Well lit to dark. It stops the sunken display area shadow also.  Not sure why the display wasn't flush.

 

Did you use the install guide?  Any feedback on the guide, instructions pics?

 

Score?  191?   Ohh, that's going to be tough to beat.

I had serious jitters with Block Buster - cleaning the cart contact points with Isopropyl Alcohol and also a good eraser rub has eliminated 99.99% of the jitter.  I havent had any real problems on other carts, but if I get a tiny bit of jitter I do the eraser rub and it goes away.

Edited by Goochman
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2 hours ago, Goochman said:

I had serious jitters with Block Buster - cleaning the cart contact points with Isopropyl Alcohol and also a good eraser rub has eliminated 99.99% of the jitter.  I haven't had any real problems on other carts, but if I get a tiny bit of jitter I do the eraser rub and it goes away.

That makes sense.  I'll make more effort in the contacts when it comes up.   I noticed sometimes that is you move the cartridge side to side, those small movements cause it to jitter.

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4 hours ago, robbievgb said:

$45 for the backlight kit and install? That's pretty hard to pass up. I get so nervous working on old electronics like this. 

 

Still taking pre-orders for the backlight kits? They look pretty sharp! 

Yes,  How's it going?  PREORDERS for the 2nd batch are still going.   The standard replacement LCD are in stock and ship same day.  https://voiceofthemummy.com/staging/microvision-lcd-display/

 

There are install options for both.   Here are the install guides for both types for the DIYers.  https://voiceofthemummy.com/staging/microvision-lcd-display/1979-microvision-lcd-install-notes/

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You know, I never put two and two together, but I've been following you on Ebay for years, for your Dark Tower repairs. I've got a complete boxed Dark Tower that thankfully still works but I saved your listings just in case I needed to get it repaired. Now I know you are the same!

 

I'd collected a few Microvisions over the years for the other LCD screen in production. I may have to send you a couple of those just for that LCD backlight version. Thanks for all you do!

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1 hour ago, SpotAnime said:

You know, I never put two and two together, but I've been following you on eBay for years, for your Dark Tower repairs. I've got a complete boxed Dark Tower that thankfully still works but I saved your listings just in case I needed to get it repaired. Now I know you are the same!

 

I'd collected a few Microvision over the years for the other LCD screen in production. I may have to send you a couple of those just for that LCD backlight version. Thanks for all you do!

Cool, your welcome!  I'm upgrading 3 Dark Towers now with brighter displays, new quiet motors, rebuilt battery compartments and rebuild keypads .  The keypads are much more responsive.  You don't have to dig in a fingernail for it to work.  I'm trying to get the time to create a new keypad for the MV.  The MVs have the same symptoms from the keypad press.  Some are more sensitive than others as the traces oxidize.  Fun stuff!  Do you have the Voice of the Mummy or Séance?  Those get rebuilt as well.  https://www.ebay.com/sh/mystore

 

The backlit MV makes a big difference in game play.   The MV has that sunken display area which creates a shadow.  The backlight LCD really helps with that.

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Quote

Hey, I installed the kit but I couldn't get the screen to work... 

 

We worked on this problem above for quite a while in FB messenger.  There is no display at all with attempting every idea possible.   It's suspected that the display chip is toast.  The unit itself works fine with blockbuster.  Pressing GO several times and you hear the beeps from missing the ball.  Wolfcrow is working out the details of shipping it in for a chip swap.

Edited by rwburbage@msn.com
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I also had quite a bit of trouble getting mine to work properly as well. In the end, I had to add some painters tape to the LCD plastic to compensate for warpage that had occurred over the years. I also had to apply a thin coat or solder to the pads on the main PCB, and then clean it all back smooth again to remove some corrosion that again, had developed over time. Once I did that, it took some fiddling but I eventually got it working properly. I do advise you use the new zebra strip that is provided for the side and while attaching that LCD bracket screen back in, you will likely have to get something thin to push that zebra strip up close the LCD as it all has a tendency to walk a bit on you if you don't.

 

Oh and one more important thing that I didn't do because I literally didn't think they were there. Remember to remove the protective sheets that are on both sides of the LCD screen. I hadn't done this and I'm sure it played a large part in why I had issues with getting mine to work initially as well.

 

 

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