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Mega STe 220V in US?


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DP & SP mean double-pole and single-pole. These refer to either one or two sets of contacts so that the  switch will operate either one or two completely different circuits.

 

DT & ST mean double-throw and single-throw. Single-throw switches are your standard on-off switch. Double-throw switches are of the on-off-on variety, with two different on positions.

 

So, your standard light switch in your home would be a SPST switch.

 

I would think a SPST switch would be what you would need for your Mega STE. That's as much as I'm willing to recommend though, as I know nothing about Megas or their cases. I don't want to recommend something that, because of the size, won't work with your case, or will require heavy case modification. Just look for SPST 120VAC switches of whatever type you look for. I'd look for something in the 2.5 to 3A current range.

 

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@pixelmischief

Just now I had a look at the switch. The type (building form) will do just fine.

It sort of looks like the one used in the original power suppply.

But you should take one that's rated for 125V-AC.

This rating is mainly for the fact that the connections should not be too close.

There's some rules for that. In Netherlands (230V-50Hz) the minimum distance has to be 5mm (about 0,2") This is called "creep distance"

Peronally, I'd choose a double-pole switch and make sure to use a 3 lead-connection. That is with protective earth connection.

BR/

Guus

Edited by guus.assmann
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6 hours ago, pixelmischief said:

@bfollowell Can you give me a few sentences on how I should split the 6 outputs on the power supply to the larger number of input pins on the Mega STe system board?

 

@pixelmischief, sorry, I can't, at least at the moment. I'm at work for a 10-hour day today and today's my anniversary and the wife and I are going out to eat tonight. I can provide pictures and show you what I did for my STe, but I'm not at all familiar with the internals or the power connector pinout of a Mega STe and I don't want to steer you wrong. I'll look at the Mean Well PSU pinout to remind myself and then I'll see if I can find a Mega STe pinout online and will advise tomorrow, assuming no one pipes in before then.

 

Edited by bfollowell
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You can download an Atari Mega STe PSU technical document. On the bottom left of page four is a wiring legend for all three connectors coming from the Atari Mega STe PSU. You will need to match those up with the right wires from the Mean Well PSU. You can also download a Mean Well PSU datasheet. Obviously, you will have to attach multiple wires from the various Atari connectors to the PSU leads as there are more than you have available from your PSU. According to the technical documentation, the Atari Mega STe PSU was a 65W PSU, while this one is only a 49W PSU. I'm not convinced it will provide enough power for a Mega STe, but I guess there's a chance that the original PSU was overkill for what was needed and that this one will be fine. @Umberto says he uses it with no issues and I have no reason to doubt him. I'm just going off the rating for the original PSU.

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If I recall my theory from many moons ago, PSU's are usually rated @75% to 80% of the normal load

so for the 65W PSU it's normally running somewhere around 50W.

 

So the 49W PSU might be running at it's max power all the time (which maybe ok for modern PSU's with adequate cooling), just thought I would say 

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@bfollowell Actually, my question is much more embarassingly simple.  In cases where I need to connect multiple inputs on the system board to a single output on the power supply, can I just split them out?  Should I chain them to the same wire?  Do I need to add some component that protects against reverse flow?  Yeah, I'm that green.

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4 hours ago, pixelmischief said:

@bfollowell Actually, my question is much more embarassingly simple.  In cases where I need to connect multiple inputs on the system board to a single output on the power supply, can I just split them out?  Should I chain them to the same wire?  Do I need to add some component that protects against reverse flow?  Yeah, I'm that green.

If the PSU has a +5VDV output on one wire, and you need that for three different wires going into your computer, just wire them all to the same +5VDC wire coming out of your PSU. The same goes for +12VDC. If you need -5 or -12VDC, just wire them in reverse to reverse the polarity.

 

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2 hours ago, ParanoidLittleMan said:

You can not get - voltages by 'wire them in reverse' . GND is common and not separated for diverse voltages.

 

You're exactly right. I was coming back to correct myself when, luckily, I saw you'd already commented. I was definitely having a "I've been at work far too long" moment.

 

The more I think about it, according to the Mega STe PSU document that I found, the Mega STe requires +5VDC and -5VDC, as well as +12VDC and -12VDC. The Mean Well RPD-60A PSU that I linked to only provides +5VDC and +12VDC; no negative voltages at all. I linked to the wrong PSU. Also, the one that @Umberto linked to doesn't provide all the required voltages either. Regardless of which model of RPT-60 you pick, from what I can see, they each only provide 3 voltage rails and, according to the Mega STe PSU document I found, the Mega STe needs 4 separate power rails.

 

I know Uberto said he uses it with his machine, but I really don't see how. Umberto, can you elaborate how you use the Mean Well RPT-60B for your Mega without a -5VDC rail? What am I missing?

 

Thanks.

 

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Until Umberto clears things up and lets us know how he's running without the -5VDC provided by the original Atari Mega STe PSU, I'm forced to recommend one of these two models, both of which provide all four required DC voltage rails with the correct amount of current.

 

The Mean Well RQ-85B and the Mean Well RQ-125B. They're $37 and $41 respectively. The RQ-125B provides a little more current for the extra $4 and, if it were me, I'd probably go with that one just to cover my bases for any future upgrades and add-ons I might be considering. Not being all that familiar with the Mega STe, I have no idea how these models compare to the original in relation to physical size or whether or not they'll fit. I was just looking at strictly meeting the power requirements.

 

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https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Negative-Voltage-Boost-Buck-Converter/dp/B07SJ4ZXYQ/ref=asc_df_B07SJ4ZXYQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475741834053&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2655686133481039203&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033519&hvtargid=pla-1032401992282&psc=1

 

Buck converter will give your -5v rail from the 12v rail.

 

Like I said in post 35, I have one installed in a Mage ST not a MSTE. Mage ST only has a 5v and 12v rails.

 

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RQ-85B/7706154?s=N4IgTCBcDaIEoEUC0AOArAIRAXQL5A

 

Your right this would be a better choice. The other one you listed is to long to fit in a Mega STE 

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Umberto said:

Like I said in post 35, I have one installed in a Mage ST not a MSTE. Mage ST only has a 5v and 12v rails.

 

Ahhh, now I see where I was getting mixed up. I mistakenly thought you said you had that one in a MSTE. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 

That little buck converter is a pretty neat little device too, though I think I'd prefer to stick with one PSU. Still, it might come in handy for some projects.

 

Edited by bfollowell
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello pixelmischief,

 

You're missing the pin, obviously. :-)

 

Now seriously, it seems likely that the pin is missing for a reason. It may have been a reversing safeguard.

To be sure, you'd need to verify with the original power supply. If it has no wire on that position it's clear.

 

Does it look like the pin is broken of? Can't see that on the picture.

If there's a piece of pin left, check for continuity between the pin-part and the last 3 pins of the connector.

 

I'm writing this, without having a look in a Mega STE.

I do have one, but it's quite some work to get it and open it up.

Maybe Frank Lucas has one available that's also opened up and still complete.

 

BR/

Guus Assmann

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