Jump to content
IGNORED

UAV Ultimate Atari Video and STEREO mod wiring help for 2600A 4-switch Vader


epp

Recommended Posts

Hello! Looking for insights/support/expertise on UAV and stereo:

I'm working on a Vader 4-switch 2600A UAV and stereo mod and am having trouble understanding which wires from the UAV goes to which TIA pin on my Vader 4-switch, and then which wires then go to the S-video and RCA sockets.


The diagram of the board I found on another thread was somewhat helpful, but the TIA connections are unclear to me. Any diagrams of the pin layout so I can make the connections? Any diagrams of the image on page six of the installation manual? It's hard (for me) to decipher the photo with the wires twisted in the photo.

 

I did try to make sense of it all and created the attached handy-dandy diagram as a proposal based on the different instructions, diagrams, images and mods I found on these forums and on YouTube (including the stereo mod which I think I want to do for Synthcart and live performance — two channels for sound and s-video to project the Synthcart visualizer.imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68 

 

Does my diagram below make sense?
Trying to be extra careful as this is my first mod and I'm inexperienced with electronics.
I'm also guessing on which ground to run to the RCA connections, assuming any ground will do?

 

UAV Mod

 

PIN to UAV:

2—SYNC

5—LUM2 (2600 LUM1)

7—LUM3 (2600 LUM2)

8—LUM1 (2600 LUM0)

9—COLOR IN

 

S-Video seems clear, but if my diagram is wrong, please let me know. 

 

 

STEREO MOD

 

PIN to RCA (if stereo mod)

12—capacitor—LEFT

13—capacitor—RIGHT

 

PIN RESISTOR CONNECTION

12—resistor—5V solder pad

13—resistor—5V solder pad

 

Any insight or guidance appreciated!
If I can nail this I'll build a better diagram to share with the community, could help noobs like me.

 

 

2600A_COMP_SVID_STEREO_2x.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE, missing colors after wiring:

 

I followed my above diagram but as you can see from the images, a large section of colors are missing. Additionally after the first attempt Pitfall worked, but then stopped working, went to blue screen with a high pitched noise. After my attempt to fix, the audio and video do work but colors are still missing. The image flickers vertically sometimes when turning a game on, but stops after wiggling wires and doesn't come back. 

 

Adjusting the color on the Atari or on the UAV board do not help the missing color issue. 

 

Tested with Space Invaders, Pitfall and Air-Sea Battle. 

 

In my attempt to fix I removed the resistor between pins 5 (or 6) and 9 on the back and resoldered pins 8 and 9. 

 

Can anyone tell me what the pins control so I can try reconnecting what may be incorrect? Did I not interpret the wiring correctly?
If I'm just missing certain colors, what could that mean? 

 

PIN:

2—SYNC

5—LUM2 (2600 LUM1)

7—LUM3 (2600 LUM2)

8—LUM1 (2600 LUM0)

9—COLOR IN

 

Anyone see what I'm doing wrong? 

 

01.png

02_RCA.png

03_back.png

03_front.png

03_UAV_board_fb.png

04.png

05.png

06.png

07_pitfall.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I put a UAV into one of my 4-switch Woodies a couple years ago but it’s the original rev C boards that Bryan was selling at the time. I picked up the LUM, COL and SYNC signals directly from TIA, no need to remove any resistors or anything like that. I don’t have good pics, unfortunately, and in any case the jumper block arrangement changed from rev C to the current rev D so my wiring photos wouldn’t be useful.  

 

But having said that, you should get a pinout for TIA and then simply wire the UAV straight to it - either tacking to shoulders of the chip or to the pins on the solder-side of the PCB. If your problems remain you either have the LUM signals mixed up or a defective UAV.

Edited by DrVenkman
typos
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the TIA on the left (CO104444-22, not D) and that is how I wired it.

Maybe I will resolder the connections and see if it fixes the color issue. The color issues are there with RCA or S-video, so I think my UAV to S-video connections are probably fine and it's a TIA to UAV wiring issue. I'll try and order another UAV board a well. 

 

Otherwise, the picture is incredibly sharp with the S-video and the stereo output is working fine, I can plug straight into my sound interface to record in GarageBand, which is great. 

 

Thanks for the replies! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wait a minute ... you’re using a rev D UAV board, correct? That version has a separate TIA COLOR input, added to deal with 7800 installations and the two separate video signals. I don’t have a rev D in a 2600, but have you tried connecting the TIA COL signal to that header pin?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

Wait a minute ... you’re using a rev D UAV board, correct? That version has a separate TIA COLOR input, added to deal with 7800 installations and the two separate video signals. I don’t have a rev D in a 2600, but have you tried connecting the TIA COL signal to that header pin?

I've wondered about this as well. My understanding is that you use the Col IN on 2600 installs and not the TIA as that was specifically put there to help isolate the TIA colorburst from the MARIA causing the dreaded diagonal interference patterns we got with other solutions like the LHE and even the Magic Knight to an extent.

 

I thought all the 2600 installs required setting jumpers on the board though? I don't know as I've not installed any into a 2600 as yet since the cheaper composite mods seem to be enough for most people on the 2600 side of things.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, epp said:

Yes, it's an rD UAV... 
So, does that mean try to move my TIA pin 9 col wire to the UAV "T col" spot instead of the S-video "Co in" spot?  

 

That would be an easy fix!

 

UAV_fix_01.thumb.jpg.c21471cde68d2f649977500b6e9e4321.jpg

That is what he was suggesting yes. But I don't believe that will do much. But it doesn't hurt to try it either.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

I've wondered about this as well. My understanding is that you use the Col IN on 2600 installs and not the TIA as that was specifically put there to help isolate the TIA colorburst from the MARIA causing the dreaded diagonal interference patterns we got with other solutions like the LHE and even the Magic Knight to an extent.

 

I thought all the 2600 installs required setting jumpers on the board though? I don't know as I've not installed any into a 2600 as yet since the cheaper composite mods seem to be enough for most people on the 2600 side of things.

 

 

You’re probably right about the color signal. Just spitballing.

 

But as to the second point, you can always solder straight to the UAV header through holes, no need for jumpers per se. Just get the right signals to the right inputs. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Wait a sec.... does the 2600 UAV install not require the Lum 0 input? I don't see a wire on his UAV from 0 in the pics? Wait... try the T Col sure but also try moving 3 to 0 on the UAV board side?

Yeah, you’re right. TIA doesn’t have LUM3. It has LUM0, LUM1 and LUM2. I think you want to run those right to the header through holes that correspond. See Marlin’s UAV Installation Manual for details:

 

 

829D2D06-261B-47FF-9FF1-AD8AFBAE9E61.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well in looking at the actual manual on the 2600 installation from TBA it shows that on the 2600 side that Lum0 on the UAV isn't connected. So I'm guessing he has it wired properly. I guess I really need to do a 2600 install to see about making those instructions a bit more clear perhaps?

 

If I'm reading this right...:

TIA pin 8 (LUM0) - 1 on UAV

TIA pin 7 (LUM2) - 3 on UAV

TIA pin 5 (LUM1) - 2 on UAV

TIA pin 9 - Co In on UAV

TIA pin 2 - S (sync) on UAV

 

UAV_2600_Info.thumb.jpg.003a293235e6e185efaa187c32e8dcbd.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well in looking at the actual manual on the 2600 installation from TBA it shows that on the 2600 side that Lum0 on the UAV isn't connected. So I'm guessing he has it wired properly. I guess I really need to do a 2600 install to see about making those instructions a bit more clear perhaps?

 

Yeah, see my edit above for the manual excerpt. The 2600 LUM signals are basically moved “up” numerically one position on the board. That said, I looked closely at the TIA solder pics and it looks like pins 10 and 6 are desoldered? Is that an artifact of the lighting or were you messing around with something there? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

Yeah, see my edit above for the manual excerpt. The 2600 LUM signals are basically moved “up” numerically one position on the board. That said, I looked closely at the TIA solder pics and it looks like pins 10 and 6 are desoldered? Is that an artifact of the lighting or were you messing around with something there? 

Yeap I was editing the same thing as you were and provided a pin to UAV alginment along with it.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

Yeah, see my edit above for the manual excerpt. The 2600 LUM signals are basically moved “up” numerically one position on the board. That said, I looked closely at the TIA solder pics and it looks like pins 10 and 6 are desoldered? Is that an artifact of the lighting or were you messing around with something there? 

Look like I screwed up there while working the others as they were so close and that capacitor (removed) was in the way, I will resolder those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well in looking at the actual manual on the 2600 installation from TBA it shows that on the 2600 side that Lum0 on the UAV isn't connected. So I'm guessing he has it wired properly. I guess I really need to do a 2600 install to see about making those instructions a bit more clear perhaps?

 

If I'm reading this right...:

TIA pin 8 (LUM0) - 1 on UAV

TIA pin 7 (LUM3) - 3 on UAV

TIA pin 5 (LUM1) - 2 on UAV

TIA pin 9 - Co In on UAV

TIA pin 2 - S (sync) on UAV

 

UAV_2600_Info.thumb.jpg.003a293235e6e185efaa187c32e8dcbd.jpg

That does look different than what I did, I may have been going off an older UAV board diagram. I will resolder to the above tonight and see how it works. So I will leave my "Co in" connection for now and do the other changes. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, epp said:

That does look different than what I did, I may have been going off an older UAV board diagram. I will resolder to the above tonight and see how it works. So I will leave my "Co in" connection for now and do the other changes. 

 

I changed it a second ago, but I mean LUM2 for Pin7 not LUM3 as there isn't a LUM3 on the TIA. But the pin was correct still. I really need to just UAV up a 2600 even for testing to make up something that might be more clear on 2600 installs. I have a H6 and vader units working that I could do this with so I could test both the 4050 plugin version of the install and the wire direct method as is being done here.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...