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Windows 10 Install


phuzaxeman

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On 3/9/2021 at 1:05 PM, Rick Dangerous said:

Swung out to Walmart and grabbed a PNY SSD 500GB for $50

From what I’m reading, a USB 3.1 drive should be theoretically as fast or faster than an internal SATA 3 drive. Does that sound right?

 

https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/article/128-how-much-faster-is-usb-c-compared-to-previous-generations-of-usb-to-sata-and-to-thunderbolt

 

I just did all of the upgrades, and I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to install Windows on the internal M.2 drive. Hopefully this is as good of a solution.. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-Ultra-Flash-Drive/dp/B07857Y17V?th=1
 

Let me know if the drive I bought sucks. 

 

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On 6/26/2021 at 12:59 PM, Allpaul said:

I was able to get Windows 10 installed on my USB 3.1 flash drive. following the instructions on Atari's site. Seems to run fast.

Actually, after messing with it for a while, it seems to be stuttery, and I have to restart the Atari to get it to run ok. It also seems to take forever to do anything when you click on something, even stuff like the settings app. 

 

Maybe this flash drive wasn't a good solution. I'll try to clone the drive to the internal m.2, and see if that fixes it. I'll report back, if anyone is interested.

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I know I’m just replying to myself right now, but maybe this will help someone. I did the update Windows optional quality update 2021-06. Apparently, this update fixes some of the stutter and lag problems people we’re having, regardless of system.

 

I find it amazing that it’s an optional update. Windows is strange and perplexing to me. Who wouldn’t want this? 

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1 hour ago, Allpaul said:

I know I’m just replying to myself right now, but maybe this will help someone. I did the update Windows optional quality update 2021-06. Apparently, this update fixes some of the stutter and lag problems people we’re having, regardless of system.

 

I find it amazing that it’s an optional update. Windows is strange and perplexing to me. Who wouldn’t want this? 

Every time I tried to install windows on the VCS all I get is a black screen while the usb drive blinks rapidly. I don't know how to get the VCS to do anything else...

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2 minutes ago, tripled79 said:

Every time I tried to install windows on the VCS all I get is a black screen while the usb drive blinks rapidly. I don't know how to get the VCS to do anything else...

I followed the user guide on Atari's website:

 

https://atarivcs.com/content/PC-Mode-Create-Windows-Boot-Drive.pdf

 

I had to install Windows on my Mac to do it. I wasn't able to create an installer drive and install Widows directly to the m.2 drive I installed. Seems like to only people that got it to work made a boot drive like the one in the link and cloned it to the internal SSD.

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1 minute ago, Allpaul said:

I followed the user guide on Atari's website:

 

https://atarivcs.com/content/PC-Mode-Create-Windows-Boot-Drive.pdf

 

I had to install Windows on my Mac to do it. I wasn't able to create an installer drive and install Widows directly to the m.2 drive I installed. Seems like to only people that got it to work made a boot drive like the one in the link and cloned it to the internal SSD.

Yes, I already followed these instructions only to get no results like I already mentioned...

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9 hours ago, tripled79 said:

Every time I tried to install windows on the VCS all I get is a black screen while the usb drive blinks rapidly. I don't know how to get the VCS to do anything else...

Make sure you are on a recent version 20H2 or 21H1, an official ISO. I already had the problems with the Enterprise 1809 LTSC and others unofficials versions.
I have encountered many black screens especially when testing on Android x86 distributions. I got out of it by changing my HDMI cable, for some reason I can't explain myself I have a cable that displays black screens on some distributions/versions and not others or loosing signal and back to screen multiple times..

I know, it doesn't make sense but for me it worked.

 

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16 hours ago, 0_obeWAN said:

Make sure you are on a recent version 20H2 or 21H1, an official ISO. I already had the problems with the Enterprise 1809 LTSC and others unofficials versions.
I have encountered many black screens especially when testing on Android x86 distributions. I got out of it by changing my HDMI cable, for some reason I can't explain myself I have a cable that displays black screens on some distributions/versions and not others or loosing signal and back to screen multiple times..

I know, it doesn't make sense but for me it worked.

 

huh?

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I am getting crazy with this Atari VCS 800 ... My bios version is 21.

 

I saw plenty videos from Retro Axis but not all before acting. First video : How to open the VCS 800. I did it. I bought the RAM update and the M2 980 ... Ok 1 video is not enough repack the 980 and I bought a 860.

Till now I can start with a Ubuntu key.

As I want a multi OS boot. I download the last release of Windows 10 download and create a USB bootable installation key. Everything seams perfect. The M2 860 is inside the VCS I boot on my windows 10 install. I arrive at the end of file install, first reboot and error. Impossible to go futher. Ok Windows is making Windows stuff ;-) And not it is VCS that makes VCS stuff. 

I try in the install process to redo the partitioning not better.I decide to change my mind, No need of windows it will be Ubuntu. 

Impossible to boot with my Ubuntu usb key !!! The VSC always open the VCS interface.

OK Windows did something to the Bios. Easy I just have to edit the boot section in the bios. And I try many way to open the bios. I did the shortcut between pin 3 an pin 2. Nothing works. And finally I did it. 

I use the WintoUsb program to install Win 10 home edition on my M2 disk in a usb case. It works well on the VCS as an external drive but don't works in SATA3 mode. I have use MiniTool Partition Wizard 11 and I did a conversion of my windows USB M2 from GPT disk to MBR disk. 

And miracle : When I boot on this faulty drive I have an UEFI error and open the bios is a possibility without the keyboard just the mouse.

 

Do you think that I should be happy with my usb Windows 10 or a SATA dual boot without waiting the bios version 100 is possible ?   

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm ready to give up on my Windows install attempts. I have a Samsung T7 500GB SSD. I've tried both WinToUSB Professional and Rufus. WinToUSB gets to around 70% and craps out. I've tried multiple times. I ran Chkdsk on the SSD. Prior to this I had Ubuntu on the same SSD and the VCS booted it fine.  I used GPT for UEFI and VHDX options in WinToUSB. I created the Windows.iso file using the Microsoft media creation tool.  I used Rufus to download a separate version of windows Win10_21H1_EnglishInternational_x64.iso and had Rufus create a Windows To Go. The VCS boots and i get the spinner and then a prompt that the Windows installation was unsucessful and the system needs to restart. Loop Ad infinitum.  Now I'm trying Rufus with the Windows.iso I downloaded using the Microsoft tool. This is my last attempt. I don't think I need to go into the BIOS and disable secure boot, do I?  

 

Not sure with these latest Windows updates if Microsoft is changing things to interfere with installing it to removable drives, and both WinToUSB and Rufus havent been updated to account for it. 

Screenshot 2021-07-16 213111 WinToUsb.png

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5 minutes ago, Dougee said:

I'm ready to give up on my Windows install attempts. I have a Samsung T7 500GB SSD. I've tried both WinToUSB Professional and Rufus. WinToUSB gets to around 70% and craps out. I've tried multiple times. I ran Chkdsk on the SSD. Prior to this I had Ubuntu on the same SSD and the VCS booted it fine.  I used GPT for UEFI and VHDX options in WinToUSB. I created the Windows.iso file using the Microsoft media creation tool.  I used Rufus to download a separate version of windows Win10_21H1_EnglishInternational_x64.iso and had Rufus create a Windows To Go. The VCS boots and i get the spinner and then a prompt that the Windows installation was unsucessful and the system needs to restart. Loop Ad infinitum.  Now I'm trying Rufus with the Windows.iso I downloaded using the Microsoft tool. This is my last attempt. I don't think I need to go into the BIOS and disable secure boot, do I?  

 

Not sure with these latest Windows updates if Microsoft is changing things to interfere with installing it to removable drives, and both WinToUSB and Rufus havent been updated to account for it. 

Screenshot 2021-07-16 213111 WinToUsb.png

I wrote too soon. Rufus with the Windows.iso I downloaded using the Microsoft tool worked. 

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On 1/6/2021 at 8:53 AM, andymanone said:

Did you upgrade your VCS with an SSD or an USB Memory Stick (64GB or higher) before?

 

If "Yes", than use your PC and: 

 

1. Go to the MS Website and download the MCT (Media creation tool) ->  Download Media Creation Tool

2. Plug in a USB Stick 8GB (or higher)

3. Start the tool and choose "Install Windows 10 for another computer"

4. Select "Write Image to USB Stick" (choose 64BIT version and Win 10 Home or Pro, depend on your License, you use)

5. go step by step thru the install process

6. if its done pull your stick from the PC und put it on your VCS

7. choose on your VCS Menu "PC-MODE" -> Reboot

 

After than, the VCS is booting from your Stick and starts the Win 10 install process

 

Cheers,

andY

Does the SSD installed have to be blank? I have games installed on the SSD and when I follow the steps above and plug in the USB, all I get is a black screen. Nothing happens.

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2 hours ago, Cyclonus said:

Guys

 

Easiest way to get Windows 10 onto the internal m2 drive is to use Win2usb onto an external stick, then just use another stick with clone zilla and clone the win2usb stick to the internal m2.

 

Then finally change the boot order on the bios

Another easy way is to use an m.2 to USB adapter.  Then use Win2usb to the m.2.

 

I've used this $15 adapter:  https://www.amazon.com/M-2-External-Converter-Adapter-Enclosure/dp/B076DCNZM3/ref=sr_1_1?d

 

 

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9 minutes ago, rayik said:

Another easy way is to use an m.2 to USB adapter.  Then use Win2usb to the m.2.

 

I've used this $15 adapter:  https://www.amazon.com/M-2-External-Converter-Adapter-Enclosure/dp/B076DCNZM3/ref=sr_1_1?d

 

 

I am going to upgrade my 128gb m2 SSD with windows already on it and just use clone zilla to clone to a bigger 512gb m2 then just use a 256gb stick for batocera 

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  • 7 months later...
On 3/23/2022 at 5:38 AM, WildElk said:

When I boot into Windows 10 via USB, it's not recognising the M2 Internal Storage for game installs, can someone help?

How is the m.2. partitioned and formatted?

 

44 minutes ago, hoagtech said:

I have an m.2 and it works for internal storage but I’m still booting off of a usb 3.1 drive. 
 

I would like to know how to install windows onto the SSD and not use the dongle. 
 

Is there a preferred method? 

I would like to know this too.   Everything I've done to make the m.2 the boot device ends up just making the eMMC the boot device.   Best I could do was put a boot loader (reFind) on a flashdrive and select OS at boot, defaulting to m.2. OS if no selection made.

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Getting windows 10 installed on the internal drive was a bit of a nightmare for me too.  As others have mentioned, using the microsoft media creation tool to create an install USB can be booted by the VCS, but spits out an error message about unable to partition the internal drive.  I was not able to get around this error at its default configuration.

 

However, going into the BIOS and turning the boot options from UEFI to Legacy allowed to me to boot from USB and install windows 10 without a hitch!  You just need to be careful because the installer doesn't seem to be able to change the boot order automatically after the first windows reboot (after its done copying files), and when it restarts, it will just end back at the start of the installer.  Instead, you need to quickly reenter the bios, and manually boot from the internal SSD using the select boot drive option.  You can also just unplug the USB stick, allow windows to start booting from the internal SSD, and then quickly replug the USB stick because the installer needs to continue to access it for the remainder of the install.

 

Please keep in mind that this is all performed WITHOUT the use of the internal Atari OS or any of its 'PC Mode' options.  I have the internal MMC drive disabled in the boot options.

 

I also noticed that you should NOT use a 2.4ghz Wifi access point and bluetooth at the same time.  They seem to interfere badly, and using a bluetooth joystick at the same time as wifi activity causes the wifi to slow to a crawl and eventually drop.  Never seen this behavior before.  Switching to a 5ghz access point fixed the issue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So in case it helps anyone...

 

Recently did a Windows 10 install for my Atari VCS onto a USB SSD and had some differing results.

 

Attempt 1: 120GB SATA 2.5" (SAMSUNG 840 EVO) SSD in aftermarket USB Enclosure - Failed

- Would all load onto the SSD fine using the usual methods, but refused to boot on Atari VCS for setup.

- Tried this multiple times. Always same result. Refused to boot into setup.

- SSD is known good, so issue may have been using the enclosure for a boot drive?

 

Attempt 2: 64GB Fast (SANdisk Ultra) USB Thumbdrive - Success, but terrible solution

- Did the same process to create the disk, and all worked fine - booted into Windows setup as expected. But Windows performance was terrible (as you would expect off a thumbdrive!)

 

Attempt 3: 500GB USB 3.0 External SSD (WD 500GB My Passport Go Cobalt SSD Portable External Storage - WDBY9Y5000ABT-WESN) - Success, and working great.

- Did the same process to create the disk, and all worked fine - booted into Windows setup as expected and performance is great.

- Got the drive on special for $50 AU @ Officeworks a while back, so good to find a worthwhile use for it.

 

If at first you fail, consider another way of doing it. Or even try a fast USB Thumbdrive as a proof of concept. (Do not pretend this would be a usable solution, but if it works you know you're following the steps correctly)

 

Right now my biggest issue is that the Atari VCS is killing my HDMI-CEC setup for other devices, so my TV no longer turns on my sound bar nor will it control the soundbar with the Atari VCS plugged into any HDMI port on the TV or Soundbar. The solution for this I believe is a modified HDMI cable with Pin 13 deleted, or an adapter like the one I am expecting in the mail tomorrow:

https://www.lindy.com.au/hdmi-non-cec-female-male-adapter?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Yev7u6Q9wIVgU0rCh3rXQ0BEAQYAiABEgJJTfD_BwE

 

Happy to post my results once I try it out, but wont be til next week.

 

I am so far very happy with the performance on Windows 10. Should be a great emulation gaming box based on my experiences with MAME thus far, and it's running smoothly @ 4K with no memory mods or heat sink rework. (i.e. Factory sealed box) And it looks great in my TV cabinet. Plus I can tell my mates I'm running Windows 10 on an Atari....

 

Viva La Atari....

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So update... my HDMI-CEC issues were resolved with the dongle in the post above. No more issues when the Atari VCS is plugged in with controlling other HDMI connected devices from my TV remote via CEC. 

 

It's a bit disappointing that it cost me $31AU to fix a problem that could have been avoided by them not connecting pin 13 on the HDMI port, but at least it's working now. And this is not the only HDMI device to ever have this problem either, but this would be a good revision if they were ever to update the hardware. 

 

Game on.

Edited by Rockdog
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