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danwinslow

Indus Drive

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Hi Folks -

I have a very nice looking Indus drive that seems to have a problem. I was trying to test it, and I found I was unable to insert a disk. The top rotator cuff (the one with the little indentations in it) seems to be stuck in the down position, blocking any attempts at inserting a disk. Any advice? I don't have any issue opening it up but don't really know what to look for in particular.

 

Thanks

Dam

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gently open and close the drive door and make sure nothing is in it... if the pressure and release cam is broken, you will have to replace it. There were 3D printed ones for the tandon mech so you might have to search 1050 tandon indus to find it again.

Once you are sure it's broken, you need to take the long shaft out that is held in by circlips and slide the old one off as you do it, and then press the new one on as you feed the shaft back in. there is either a screw or spring steal that prevent the cam from spinning once you have it in and where it belongs so you will fasten it after it's in.

Edited by _The Doctor__

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So, I went ahead and popped the top off. Looks like there is a spring coil in the middle that has become detached from the lift mechanism, on the underneath of the lift. There is also a shot of the lift mechanism more from the top that is a little clearer. I don't see a clean way to get the lift off of the hooks. Any suggestions?

 

image.thumb.png.9b610adc1688e1b13135cf0bf6c80c9d.pngimage.thumb.png.f606416a2bbabea830b814e84464a281.png

  • Thanks 1

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Hi Doctor, thanks. I think you might be talking about the front lift up panel. I am talking about the actual rotator cuff that engages the disk. It's the spring beneath the gold (colored) lift mechanism. Or, at least, if we are talking about teh same thing then I don't even know it :)

Edited by danwinslow

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oh no it's not the cam! it's the spindle!

 

do not apply power til you find the metal circlip that came off!

 

I have never seen one come off on it's own... perhaps some one took it apart to lubricate and did not refasten it fully!

 

If you find it you will more than likely just be able to snap it back on fully and be none the worse for wear.

Edited by _The Doctor__

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I think I see the spindle shaft still there... inside the coil of the spring, so you should be able to center it in the hole and close the door. It should then protrude through the hole. If it does not then you will have to push it up from underneath until it does again... as it might have been pushed through the collet a little bit. It will push back up though... then re affix the circlip...

the spindle shaft might resist slightly... the spring is a bit stiff... but you will get it back together.

Edited by _The Doctor__

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2 hours ago, danwinslow said:

So, I went ahead and popped the top off. Looks like there is a spring coil in the middle that has become detached from the lift mechanism, on the underneath of the lift. There is also a shot of the lift mechanism more from the top that is a little clearer. I don't see a clean way to get the lift off of the hooks. Any suggestions?

 

image.thumb.png.9b610adc1688e1b13135cf0bf6c80c9d.pngimage.thumb.png.f606416a2bbabea830b814e84464a281.png

My goodness, that baby looks IMMACULATE, inside! (Indus/GT is my all-time favorite floppy drive!)

 

Is it a blue or red dip-switch (on the back)?

 

The first thing is to understand how the center rotating knob/cap is "armed" and its top assembly is actually "up"... Besides all the useful info. already provided above, have you tried to manually lift the rotating wheel? Does it come off completely or is it still attached to something?

 

Next thing is to verify is that it rotates freely, axially. Or, in other words, it is not "frozen / seized" and then came off its assembly.

 

 

Edited by Faicuai

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Yes, it's very clean inside. Blue dip switch. The spindle and the rotating cap are free to spin, but...

So, I saw what Doctor was talking about as the 'shaft', which is a little silver shaft with a circlet clamp on it. I pushed it up through the hole, and re-attached the circlet, but it is so short it wound up compressing the spring almost entirely, which didn't seem right, but whatever. Then I undid some of the screws at the far end of the lift mechanism (which is actuated by a little cam on the front disk lock switch) so I could get a bit of free motion to slip that little cap under the arms of the lift mechanism. At that point it should have maybe worked but what happens now is it clamps WAY too tight down and will not spin with the drive mechanism anymore. So, there's something that I don't understand/didn't do right. There were about 4 spacers under the end of the lift mechanism next to the edge of the case, I suppose to give it height, that I may need to put back in. I was trying to get it ready to sell, but that looks dim at this point.

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29 minutes ago, danwinslow said:

At that point it should have maybe worked but what happens now is it clamps WAY too tight down and will not spin with the drive mechanism anymore.

I don't believe the clamping force should have any affect on rotation, that's just to prevent the disk from slipping.

I believe the spindle has a bearing inside which is likely seized, the spindle should be able to rotate without the shaft rotating as well.

The mechanism appears to be the same as the 1050 Tandon plus a PCB attached on top, a spindle from a 1050 Tandon mechanism may work as a replacement.

Edited by BillC

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Indeed a Tandon TM-50 like a 1050.. Can we see a picture with the lever closed/down? to make the pillar sticking out of the rotating cap/fingers come through the hole above? There should be an indent in the top 1mm or so of the pillar sticking up, where a C clip would normally clip onto to hold it down against the spring underneath.

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