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My first 2600 - 35+ year impulse buy


1200XL M.U.L.E.

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Last night I bought my first 2600 from eBay for $28 + $12.95 shipping. I'm not sure if that's a good price or not. Maybe it's OK. No power supply or joystick is included. Perhaps the condition of the unit can be consider fair. It needs a cleaning. The seller offers a free 60 day return window. If it doesn't work then I have a way out.  Here is what it looks like.

 

Atari 2600 CX-2600 Black Video Computer System Game Gaming Console -Console Only | eBay

 

I think this is a "Light Sixer".

 

I also bought a power supply from another seller on eBay for $9.45 with shipping included. The power supply has a free 30 day return window. If the 2600 fails then I may return the supply ... or keep it. Power supplies are always good to have around.

 

It was definitely an impulse buy. I had an Atari 800 in the 80's and an Atari ST in the 90's but always wondered what it would be like to have an Atari 2600. It's been a 35+ year itch and that I am finally starting to scratch.

 

I know nearly nothing about the 2600 so I don't know the pitfalls of ownership here. Is there a checklist somewhere that I can through as I open, clean, and inspect the unit?

 

I want to find some sort of multi-cart system for this. Any recommendations?

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For multi-carts there are a few options. You might want to look into a Harmony Cart: https://harmony.atariage.com/Site/Harmony.html

I am less familiar with it, but a PlusCart might also be an option?: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/297172-pluscart-an-inexpensive-diy-wifi-multicart/

The last one I know of is the UnoCart: https://thebrewingacademy.com/products/uno-2600-cartridge

So there are a few choices for Atari 2600 multicarts.

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Yeah, $28/$41 isnt a bad price. I ended up having to buy 2 2600 systems from ShopGoodwill.com because the first one didn't work. I think I paid about $40 for the first and $40 for the second, but they came with power supplies and joysticks/paddles, and a few games. 

 

I did end up having to buy the coax adapter for the 2600 to work on my TV, and I still haven't diagnosed the issue with the defective 2600 yet. That should run about $3-$5 bucks. 

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9 hours ago, Tavi said:

For multi-carts there are a few options. You might want to look into a Harmony Cart: https://harmony.atariage.com/Site/Harmony.html

I am less familiar with it, but a PlusCart might also be an option?: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/297172-pluscart-an-inexpensive-diy-wifi-multicart/

The last one I know of is the UnoCart: https://thebrewingacademy.com/products/uno-2600-cartridge

So there are a few choices for Atari 2600 multicarts.

@Tavi Thanks for the recommendations! I looked at some videos of UnoCart and Harmony Cart in action. Both look very simple to use but I need to read more about them.

3 hours ago, edladdin said:

Welcome aboard!

 

Here’s a site you’ll want to visit when you get your multicart.

 

http://www.atarimania.com/rom_collection_archive_atari_2600_roms.html

 

Two thumbs up for the Harmony cart, btw.

@edladdin Yes - Atari Mania! I completely forgot to look there. Thanks for the link! There are enough cartridge images there to keep me occupied for a couple of centuries. :) 

2 hours ago, CapitanClassic said:

Yeah, $28/$41 isnt a bad price. I ended up having to buy 2 2600 systems from ShopGoodwill.com because the first one didn't work. I think I paid about $40 for the first and $40 for the second, but they came with power supplies and joysticks/paddles, and a few games. 

 

I did end up having to buy the coax adapter for the 2600 to work on my TV, and I still haven't diagnosed the issue with the defective 2600 yet. That should run about $3-$5 bucks. 

My television set accepts analog antenna signals so I should be able to use the native output of the 2600 for testing.

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My 2600 arrived and it's a little different than what I expected. Not necessarily in a bad way but maybe the forum can confirm this. 

 

First, here it is.

 

2600-01-overview.thumb.jpg.f4d4acbaec06c7ff2667242a311d4bce.jpg

 

I think this is a Light Sixer based on this case profile.

 

2600-03-fuji.thumb.jpg.157ee42f764fb01f3962b5f5f790df97.jpg

 

It certainly does not feel light! As I was pulling it out of the mailing box I thought the machine was stuck inside. No ... it was just that hefty instead. :) So, how much heavier is a Heavy Sixer?

 

I expected a machine made in Hong Kong but I got one made in Taiwan. Where does this fit in Atari's manufacturing timeline?

 

2600-04-label.thumb.jpg.f320b7f69db50d37e15cd254dcb7576e.jpg

 

It's a little beat up but the dirtiness is what really upset me.

 

2600-06-inside.thumb.jpg.fc02c84d03298932bbb5d740dee3e801.jpg

 

Lots of dirt balls, dust, and even some sort of cocoon in the bottom left. 

 

The receipt taped to the shielding seems to say Oct 11 1978 and a number of 99.71900059. Any idea what the number means?

 

2600-07-date.thumb.jpg.d53eee8028d64628334b4be5c764d1b0.jpg

 

The panel board has two identifying codes. I'm not sure what this first one is.

 

1773611783_2600-12-ioboard.thumb.jpg.924f8bf55c5608747c41ed20d1190b58.jpg

 

The second one is definitely an Atari part number.

 

2027386194_2600-13-ioboard.thumb.jpg.be59c62dfeaf3e5f2cb53f0393424740.jpg

 

Here is the motherboard.

 

2600-16-motherboard.thumb.jpg.379456cedb704d35b9364c3beff111c9.jpg

 

I didn't realize how small it was going to be. What is the unused chip space for in the left hand side there? Is there a whiz-bang upgrade that utilizes that space?

 

Here's the part number for the motherboard.

 

401279398_2600-15-motherboardpn.thumb.jpg.9513b9ca7ad57675a733aceb3ddfa51e.jpg

 

I cleaned everything, especially the case, and it looks much better now. Worn, old, and used, but better.

 

Any feedback or insight on this machine? Thank you!

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There are some bargain priced games care of CV19, I hope you enjoy playing on you're VCS. 

 

Great times await.  You'll be able to play pong with paddles via a Video Olympics cartridge.  You'll play simpler versions of Galaxians, Centipede, Ms Pacman, Joust, Asteroids, Missile Command, Wizard of Wor etc, all great games.  Also check out the store here for some great homebrews.

 

If you purchase any games that don't agree with your gaming style, don't let them detract from the charms of the other games and the system as there were some poor games released.  Time spent on checking game reviews will save you some disappointment (but not all).

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@Keatah I thought about something like this. Sticky, icky glue is coming out from under the plastic overlay and is surrounding the switch. It would be nice to remove this sticky residue. Have you painted your plastic overlay?

 

@Voxel I paid a visit to our one "retro" game shop and picked up a few cartridges. They were $2.00 each. I now have Vanguard, Berzerk, Phoenix, and Crazy. They had many more for $2.00 each but I held back a bit. :) I have to make sure my 2600 works first. This is where I am having a bit of a misadventure.

 

First, my RF antenna connector on the back of my TV broke off. Peachy. I am running the 2600 video output to an old VCR and the VCR gives me a composite output for my TV. This drives the urgency for me to install some sort of videp upgrade.

 

Second, the colors are super-super-super saturated. Like, cartoon/crayon saturated.

 

Third, I see some strange artifacts on the left hand side of the screen. These artifacts are black evenly spaced line segments.

 

Saturated.thumb.jpg.320524edc8ff21d080b67b6363e65807.jpg

 

That is from Vanguard. My phone exaggerated some of the saturation and the image quality is not quite that smeary. Still, this picture conveys the general image quality I am seeing.

 

I'm sure adding the VCR to my signal loop for conversion to composite introduces a lot of the noise. The colors I would suppose are true to what the 2600 is outputting.

 

I am actually more bothered by the dark line segments. Does anyone have any ideas where they could be coming from?

 

Fourth, and last, the power switch is very tender. Activating the switch requires a slow and gentle toggle. Going too fast, too far, or too hard glitches the 2600. I think I should replace these switches.

 

Overall, I am very happy with my 2600. I understand it is coming up to being 43 years old so it will need some tuning.

 

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I had painted the outline with a yellow/orange paintmarker. Did wonders to restore the looks. You can either be very careful painting, or cover with masking tape to get a straight line and not spill off the bezel sides. Ideally you want .006 spill, which isn't much.

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12 hours ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

I am actually more bothered by the dark line segments. Does anyone have any ideas where they could be coming from?

The dark line segments on the left are normal and part of the game. 

 

The black lines are the result of using a programming trick developed by Larry Kaplan that uses what's called an HMOVE command.  If an HMOVE is initiated immediately after HBlank starts (which is the case when HMOVE is used as documented), the [HMOVE] signal is latched and used to delay the end of the HBlank by exactly 8 CLK, or two counts of the HSync Counter.  This is achieved in the TIA by resetting the HB (HBlank) latch on the [LRHB] (Late Reset H-Blank) counter decode rather than the normal [RHB] (Reset H-Blank) decode.  The extra HBlank time shifts everything except the Playfield right by 8 pixels, because the position counters will now resume counting 8 CLK later than they would have without the HMOVE.  This is also the source of the HMOVE 'comb' effect; the extended HBlank hides the normal playfield output for the first 8 pixels of the line:

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14 hours ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

Third, I see some strange artifacts on the left hand side of the screen. These artifacts are black evenly spaced line segments.

As Master Phruby already pointed out, it is part of the design of the TIA.

 

Consider it a bug in the chip that was turned into a feature for some use cases, like David Crane described it in his talk about Grand Prix:

 

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On 3/6/2021 at 1:34 AM, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

My 2600 arrived and it's a little different than what I expected. Not necessarily in a bad way but maybe the forum can confirm this. 

 

First, here it is.

 

2600-01-overview.thumb.jpg.f4d4acbaec06c7ff2667242a311d4bce.jpg

 

I think this is a Light Sixer based on this case profile.

 

2600-03-fuji.thumb.jpg.157ee42f764fb01f3962b5f5f790df97.jpg

 

It certainly does not feel light! As I was pulling it out of the mailing box I thought the machine was stuck inside. No ... it was just that hefty instead. :) So, how much heavier is a Heavy Sixer?

 

I expected a machine made in Hong Kong but I got one made in Taiwan. Where does this fit in Atari's manufacturing timeline?

 

2600-04-label.thumb.jpg.f320b7f69db50d37e15cd254dcb7576e.jpg

 

 

Any feedback or insight on this machine? Thank you!

Very nice pickup. A Sunnyvale light sixer.  There are several threads on these forums that discuss some light sixers being manufactured at Sunnyvale California. I also happen to have one of these consoles and can confirm that while it feels a bit heavy, it is still not as heavy, as a Heavy Sixer. Below are a few pics of my Sunnyvale light sixer. I used a marker from DecoColor (also mentioned in a separate threads, here as well as here) to hand paint the bezel. The item number is 300-S Orange by DecoColor.  They also make a silver one that I have used on my Sears Heavy/Light sixers. As @Keatahmentioned, painting the bezel makes a big difference, in the consoles overall appearance.?

Sunnyvale L6r_front.jpg

 

Sunnyvale L6r_rear.jpg

 

Sunnyvale L6r_bottom.jpg

Orange Paint for Bezel.jpg

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@Master Phruby and @SvOlli Thanks for the note! Now I won't worry about those lines and think they are indicative of defective hardware. Instead, I will concentrate on researching improved video quality output. :) Oh, and was there suppose to be some sort of voice over or discussion in that Grand Prix video?

 

@sramirez2008 I think you may have misread my label. It says made in Taiwan. Unless ... you mean to say the manufacturing and assembly was done both in Sunnyvale, CA and in Taiwan?

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5 minutes ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

sramirez2008 I think you may have misread my label. It says made in Taiwan. Unless ... you mean to say the manufacturing and assembly was done both in Sunnyvale, CA and in Taiwan?

Ahh, yes I see now. Mine only says manufactured in Sunnvale. My label doesn't have the additional "Made in" line.

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48 minutes ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

Oh, and was there suppose to be some sort of voice over or discussion in that Grand Prix video?

I picked the wrong video, without verifying it. I remember viewing a talk by David Crane about Grand Prix, where he stated that they were lucky that the bug was never fixed, because they could use it to hide the "wrapping around" of sprites. I looked through my archives, but can't seem to find it... strange. Maybe someone else can step in here. Or I can dig it up later.

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17 hours ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

First, my RF antenna connector on the back of my TV broke off

I'm not familiar with your level of electronics, in particular how not to get a high voltage shock from a TV set, so I'll ask if your TV has provision for the two spade connectors as well as the socket mounted chassis connector.  I'll assume it was the chassis connector which came apart and maybe hope that you overlooked the spade connectors (if present) which an appropriate switch box would remedy.  If not then composite video is your route.

 

17 hours ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

Second, the colors are super-super-super saturated. Like, cartoon/crayon saturated.

You can turn the colour on the TV down or delicate fine tuning of the RF pot inside the VCS may reduce this and clean up the image too as it can drift with age.

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9 hours ago, Voxel said:

I'm not familiar with your level of electronics, in particular how not to get a high voltage shock from a TV set, so I'll ask if your TV has provision for the two spade connectors as well as the socket mounted chassis connector.  I'll assume it was the chassis connector which came apart and maybe hope that you overlooked the spade connectors (if present) which an appropriate switch box would remedy.  If not then composite video is your route.

 

You can turn the colour on the TV down or delicate fine tuning of the RF pot inside the VCS may reduce this and clean up the image too as it can drift with age.

 

I have a "modern" 42" plasma TV and it only has the circular F type jack. It's probably an easy fix to solder in a new jack but I'm too lazy to heft the TV. ? I wish it had the spade lugs but I think those vanished even in the 90s?

 

Is the RF pot you are referring to called the "CLR DLY ADJ"? I think the reference designator is R211 on my motherboard.

 

@SvOlli Thanks for posting the video! :) 

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15 hours ago, 1200XL M.U.L.E. said:

Is the RF pot you are referring to called the "CLR DLY ADJ"? I think the reference designator is R211 on my motherboard.

R211, allows you to adjust the hues of your colour palette.

 

On the RF modulator there will be a hole, giving access to a pot which lets you tweak the image.  This can help improve an RF image on a TV and at the same time would improve the colour saturation.  On the board, near the RF modulator should be an inductor (L101?), which would affect the actual colour performance, as your colours are saturated I think yours is working well.  I'll go look for the old manual as it's good material to have and you may find it helpful.

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Did anyone recommend better AV options yet? This will give you Composite and S-Video for a reasonable price.

https://thebrewingacademy.com/collections/atari-2600/products/tba-ultimate-atari-video-uav-board-for-atari-2600

 

Can even go up to RGB if you are so inclined to, more costly and replaces the TIA.

https://8bitmods.com/atari-rgb-junior-by-tim-worthington/

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