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No, it's not that cool computer that Adam West had, that knew everything.  Here is my "Battery Adapted TI" Computer:


While I had the console open, I installed a USB keyboard adapter I bought from JediMatt.  It works with every keyboard I have tried (3 Logitech radio keyboards).  The keyboard shown with it is a Logitech K270.  It also worked with a Logitech K750.  Don't remember the third one's model number.  The K270 is just a USB-radio keyboard.  The others are Keyboard/Mouse combos, which I use in my other computers.

Here's the interior:



I used a little "tool box," that I had bought years ago, to hold two battery packs.  One powers the CPU and NanoPEB, and the other powers an LCD monitor.  Actually, this is the Mark 2 model, because the first incarnation had close to one volt, if I remember correctly, of noise on the power lines.  My first clue was when the display made "funny" colors at the Ed/Assem screen.


Here is a picture of the parts that went into the box:


The CPU battery pack is 21V, 5AH feeding two DC-DC converters.  One generates +/-5V, and the other generates +12V.

The Display battery pack is 21V,3AH that goes directly to the display, which can handle 10-30VDC power.

I'll put in a parts list so that anyone interested could build one.  DISCLAIMER:  I am (obviously) not responsible for damage to equipment that may result from building this project.  Mine works, so far.


The wiring kit for the batteries included a bunch of LEDs to monitor charge level, etc.  They are REALLY bright!  I'm thinking of splicing-in a resistor to dim them a bit.


The black cable draped over top is the charging cable, from a 19V 5A power supply, in place of the "car adapter" shown in the "parts" picture.


So far, so good.




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Here is the major parts list for my battery box:


+/- 5V DC converter  102-6009-ND

+12V DC converter 102-3194-ND

470uF Electrolytic capacitor  399-A750MS477M1EAAE015-ND

100uF Electrolytic capacitor  1189-1887-ND

0.01uF Disc capacitor  C322C104K5R5TA7305

   (Web site said 0.1uF, bag was labelled 0.001uF, parts were labelled 0.01uF, measured at 0.01uF)

   I wanted 0.1uF, but these seemed to do the job.

4A 2.2mH inductor  495-75950-1-ND


Parts Express

21V 5AH battery for CPU  21V Output Power/26650 Battery Charger Bundle

        The parts for this can be had separately:

        Dayton Audio LBB-5 5 x 26650 Lithium Battery Charger Board / Module

        PKCELL Flat Top 26650 3.7V 5000mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery


21V 3AH battery for Display  21V Portable Output Power/18650 Battery Charger Bundle

The parts for this can be had separately:

        Dayton Audio LBB-5S 18650 5-24V Input 21V Lithium Battery Board (This part will give you links to these other parts)

        PKCELL Flat Top 18650 3.7V 3000mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery (Batteries in the bundle are 2.6AH light green)


The wiring kit is the same for both boards.  Includes a car adapter, LED status lights, a battery-status push button, and output leads.

        Dayton Audio LBB-5CL DC Charging Power Cables and LED Light Kit


The bundles include the charger/holder, wiring kit and a 19V 4A power supply.  Mine got pretty warm when I charged the batteries while running the computer.


The Dayton Audio LBB-5EB Expansion Board will give you two 5V USB power jacks and a 12V "navel" jack for input power.  The 12V wiring did not look beefy enough for my tastes.  I bought one but did not use it.


CPU power plug  Neutrik NL4FRX speakON SPX Right Angle Cable Connector 4P

CPU power jack  Neutrik NL4MP speakON Connector 4 Pole Panel Mount

Display power plug  Neutrik NAC3FCA powerCON Cable Connector Power In Blue

Display power jack  Neutrik NAC3MPA-1 powerCON Chassis Connector Power In Blue


I tend to call these things "navel" connectors, because I've seen so many different names for them.

"Navel" type power jack 2.1mm Panel Mount DC Jack

The battery boards use navel connectors for their power inputs.  I bought a 2.1 x 5.5mm DC Right Angle Male to Male Extension Cable 22 AWG 3 ft.


NOTE:  The Neutrik connectors are German, so the hole size is metric.  I used a step drill to make the hole a rough size, then use the step drill "hand-held" to tweak the final hole size.


McMaster-Carr  (www.mcmaster.com)


  Terminal strips

  Crimp connectors - Screw-lug and spade-lug

  18 gauge wire



  4PDT switch

  Box or enclosure




Edited by Kchula-Rrit
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On 3/21/2021 at 12:00 AM, Kchula-Rrit said:

While I had the console open, I installed a USB keyboard adapter I bought from JediMatt.


This implies that I sell the keyboard adapter, which is wrong. Most likely, he bought it from Arcadeshopper.



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