UAV RevC/D Woes with 2600

[Stormbringer]

Ok, I've been battling video out issues starting with RevC.

I have two 2600's exhibiting the same issue.

 

A sears Heavy6 and an Atari Heavy6

 

I've been through the wringing a million times and don't believe its the issue. In the past I was using a LCD tv and getting some odd "ghosting" issues. I figured I'd try to fix my commodore 1084 since I hear they are decent for composite. I don't want to use SVIDEO, nobody has that on their TV's nowadays and I wanted to give one of them to my sister. I fear she'll tell me my skills are crap when she hooks it up Mine will work fine via the retrotink I have.

 

Anyhow,

On to the issue... BARS!!! lots of bars! You need bars? I got em.

 

There is a C in this one but the outcome is the same. I used to have them socketed over the 4050 but I hear the RevC doesnt like that for whatever reason so its soldered directly. I know the solder job is ugly, this is prolly my 50th time going back and forth so my pride got lazy... I've de-soldered the 4050 and didnt seem to make much of a difference either but I dont recall if I've tested it on the commodore monitor that way.

 

Anyone have any idea's?!?! I cant get any specific info on this type of output. Oddly enough it seems that whites dont have bars in them. you can see this in the numbers/activision logo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[+DrVenkman]

I have a rev C in a daily-driver 4-switch that looks loads better than that, so something isn’t right. Your color saturation is really low in addition to those bars. 
 

First observation - I see you have power and ground wired directly to the top of the UAV. Since you’re mounting on top of a 4050, that’s unnecessary. The 4050 has pins for both connections. And if you DO wire in power and ground separately, you should split the UAV solder pads with a razor and only solder to the half not connected to the 4050.

[Stormbringer]

I've tried it mounted on the 4050 at first, gave up on that. in the pics is showing soldered directly. So no need to split the pad.

Its not just a revc issue. happens the same way on my revd on a atari heavy6.

 

 

 

 

 

[+DrVenkman]

All I can suggest is you verify very carefully where you’re picking up each LUM signal from the TIA chip and where you’re soldering them to the UAV. This is what a rev C UAV looks like on one of my 4-switches through the cheapest little CRT TV I still own. 

 

 

[Stormbringer]

Wiring came straight from the brewing academy. Used this guide and the image below. I used another guide here but the only differences were the +5 and ground points. I changed them to what TBA had just to be official.

 

Not trying to be rude, but I don't believe its a bad wiring job. Unless the docs are wrong.

 

Can someone provide me some technical reason for the jailbars?

 

[+DrVenkman]

Missing or shorted LUM signals might well give you that dim, jailbar type image. Looking at the full-size version of your wiring, it sure looks like you have a solder bridge between R218 and R221.

[Stormbringer]

Its not.. just the insulation covering the view. just ugly looking. I hit it with the meter. Like I said earlier, I got sloppy since I've done it so many !@#!@# times.

Is the pinout different on the RevC? I just used the image they provide (above) - maybe its wrong.

 

[+DrVenkman]

4 hours ago, Stormbringer said:

Is the pinout different on the RevC? I just used the image they provide (above) - maybe its wrong.

The jumper block configuration is different between the Rev D and Rev C. I dug through my install photos and found the pinout Bryan provided way back when for the bare-board installation of a Rev C UAV. However, the photo you're using already shows a rev C installation so I dunno.

 

The only thing I could suggest at this point is tack-soldering the LUM and SYNC signals to the TIA shoulders directly just to be 100% sure. If you try that and still have a fubar image, you may have a bad UAV.