foft Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 (edited) Yes that USB blaster should be fine. You'll need to make a small adapter to flash it since I used a non-standard pin-out due to space. I made myself two: one with a header which required soldering pins to pokeyone and one with pogo pins which doesn't. Happy to do a write up if needed. The latest firmware on my site is 1.23, though I just sent 1.25 to @Duddie. I'll upload it tonight. Edited September 24, 2021 by foft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Ist ist still possible to buy a Pokeymax V3 (Stereo Auto)? I wrote a PM to Duddie, but geht No answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 Done! My new old Atari is doing fine. @santosp Thank you so much for this great piece of hardware. You did a really good job with this project. 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 looks great @olix I'm jealous as my build stalled half way due to work and kids. I'm hoping to get it completed by the end of the year though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 It is often recommended to remove capacitors (C77 and C78 / DATAIN and DATAOUT) to improve the "SIO HI Speed". As described here: http://sio2sd.gucio.pl/wiki/HighSpeed_en Is this also necessary with the new XE board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santosp Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 Hi, if you not need these, then remove that as seen in the picture below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) @santosp When looking at the circuit part for the PAL frequencies (around U21 74LS74 and Y2) I noticed that Inductor L8 in the original XE circuit diagram has a value of 15 uH. On your board this has a value of only 1.5 uH. Is this correct? Edited October 14, 2021 by olix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santosp Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) @olix According to the the original inductor on the board, -check the picture below- the marking colors are Brown-Green-Gold-Gold . So if you use this calculator tool, the result is 1.5uH Schematic diagrams have inaccuracies often. Edited October 14, 2021 by santosp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 PLease, can you explain why you used 2N4401 and 2N3906 and not the original transistor types (2N3904 and MPSA55)? I'm asking, because i am restoring an old 800XE board with some bad transistors and asking me, if i can/should replace them with the types from your new XE PCB. I would be very grateful for a brief explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santosp Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 @olix Maybe because at that time wasn't available by the supplier. They serve the same purpose, so not worry about this. I can't find some reason, why to not you use that on your Atari. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 if they are in the video section, check out myteks choice of transistors and why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 3 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said: if they are in the video section, check out myteks choice of transistors and why. where can i find Myteks post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+LarryL Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 Search for 1088XEL or 1088XLD or 576NUC+ all are very Long threads ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 (edited) per the mytek discussions... Changed Q2 to NPN darlington transistor (MPSA13) for the composite output, which gave additional isolation from S-Video luminance circuit. Also adjusted a few values to render a better picture. The MPSA13 is obsolete, although Jameco has over 3,000 of them in stock. However the currently manufactured BC517 should also make for a good substitute. darlingtons are the way to go in Atari devices for the most part... Edited November 2, 2021 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 Hello Doc 3 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said: Changed Q2 to NPN darlington transistor (MPSA13) for the composite output, which gave additional isolation from S-Video luminance circuit. Also adjusted a few values to render a better picture. The MPSA13 is obsolete, although Jameco has over 3,000 of them in stock. However the currently manufactured BC517 should also make for a good substitute. Could you at some point give us a recap (no pun intended) of which changes you made? Sincerely Mathy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 look in the this and the take a gander in the schematics he provided, he did a good job. The same thing has been mentioned about other platforms such as coleco's and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 On 6/19/2021 at 6:11 AM, venom4728a said: I have made it past initial power on stage. Mine powered up with clear video but no color. I resoldered the components in the UAV circuitry and the connections feeding video to the UAV. Now I have color and nice video. My stock Atari video output blurry when checked. I have not tested it again since I did the resolder work. On 8/26/2021 at 2:02 PM, Santyago said: 1) stock setup + GTIA = i have blurred display and blue boot screen is little green. I'm trying adjust 500K resitor, but blue color show only at moment, next going black and white (screen 2) On 9/1/2021 at 6:06 PM, adam242 said: My stock video is quite blurry, similar to what @Santyago is experiencing, but UAV is nice and crisp, so I'm not going to worry about it. If I disconnect the 100 ohm resistor to the right of Q4, stock S-Video is no longer blurry, but I do believe this breaks composite video. I'm still working on tracing out where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 (edited) On 1/24/2022 at 4:46 PM, Panther said: I've resolved the issue by replacing the 2N4401 transistor at Q3 with a 2N3904. The problem is with the timings. Edited January 30, 2022 by Panther Apparently I can't operate the forum interface... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 @santosp In the ABBUC forum we has a discussion about the quality of the video-part of your xe pcb. (the original video part, not the uav): https://abbuc.de/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4184#p4184 Some guys like to make the videosignal better with the super video mod, but this ist difficult, because there is no schematic of your board. I know that you don't like to release the full schematic, but could it be possible to release at least the videopart of your schematic? This would be a great help for finding mistakes and for building the super video mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 1 hour ago, olix said: @santosp In the ABBUC forum we has a discussion about the quality of the video-part of your xe pcb. (the original video part, not the uav): https://abbuc.de/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4184#p4184 Some guys like to make the videosignal better with the super video mod, but this ist difficult, because there is no schematic of your board. I know that you don't like to release the full schematic, but could it be possible to release at least the videopart of your schematic? This would be a great help for finding mistakes and for building the super video mod. Skip the 10 µF tantalum capacitor though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santosp Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 8 hours ago, olix said: @santosp In the ABBUC forum we has a discussion about the quality of the video-part of your xe pcb. (the original video part, not the uav): https://abbuc.de/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4184#p4184 Some guys like to make the videosignal better with the super video mod, but this ist difficult, because there is no schematic of your board. I know that you don't like to release the full schematic, but could it be possible to release at least the videopart of your schematic? This would be a great help for finding mistakes and for building the super video mod. The standard video circuit of Atari added there for the copy fidelity only. So I was not interested in making any additions or improvements, falsifying the original Atari video circuit. Of this, half, which concerns the output of the composite video signal, is actually inside the modulator. Even those components, have been coppied 1:1 If this is an Abbuc, you can request the specific schematics from the member tf_hh here the Jurgen. I think he has the same nick there also. I gave them to him a few days ago 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 I've updated the component list to be accurate for NTSC builds. If someone wants to submit the differences for PAL builds that would be great. I also included a second tab in the spreadsheet with the components if using the super video mod. 130XE Remake Rev. 1721 NTSC Components.ods 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 I don't know if anyone else could use these, but I made some adapter boards to use a Sophia Rev. C with the connector on the 130XE Remake. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 12 hours ago, Panther said: I don't know if anyone else could use these, but I made some adapter boards to use a Sophia Rev. C with the connector on the 130XE Remake. I could use one of those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 6 hours ago, orpheuswaking said: I could use one of those I've redesigned the board to utilize the male adapter to connect with the 16-position connector used by Sophia 2, so the adapter itself doesn't need to be soldered in. I'll let you know when the new boards arrive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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