Jump to content
santosp

Atari XE Remake Pre Order Thread

Recommended Posts

Quick question regarding the bill of materials:

 

Finally started assembling my board this week (vacation time!) and I ended up with an empty 3K resistor space. The BOM shows a quantity of 15, and this was what I received from Mouser. However when I carefully examine the layout diagram, I count 16 3K resistors required. Has anyone else noticed this? Or did I make an error somewhere?

 

It's not a big deal, I can replace the missing resistor. Just want to make sure this is the issue before I proceed.

130xe remake.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, santosp said:

@adam242

Have you any 3.3k resistor available? You can use this in place of 3K.

 

Thank you for the info, but I will find a 3K. I just want to be sure that I'm correct in concluding the board calls for 16, but the Mouser basket was for 15.

 

I have other parts left over (I'm building mine as NTSC and using an oscillator rather than a crystal) and I want to be sure I didn't misplace a 3K.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As international ABBUC-members usually have to wait a bit longer for the magazine:

If you are a member and want a board, please contact @Yellow_Man who runs the shop, we got a small batch from @santosp

 

I´m now focussing on getting the downloads section filled with files, and also the shop currently is not 100% finished. If you contact Yellow_Man, please provide your ABBUC-membership number for verification.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, adam242 said:

 

Thank you for the info, but I will find a 3K. I just want to be sure that I'm correct in concluding the board calls for 16, but the Mouser basket was for 15.

 

I have other parts left over (I'm building mine as NTSC and using an oscillator rather than a crystal) and I want to be sure I didn't misplace a 3K.

My build has been on hiatus with some crazy overtime at work and a vacation. Glad I read this now before I go crazy when I get to that part. Thanks for pointing it out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, reaching out for a little troubleshooting help. My first power-on was less than successful.

 

My board is currently missing the four passives in the lower left corner (I'm using an oscillator instead of crystal) and the 14 components omitted for NTSC.  I have not yet installed the TK-II chip, the three chips for the memory expansion, or the BASIC ROM. Video config is for standard.

 

When I first powered on, I was greeted with this screen:

20210819_183150_HDR.thumb.jpg.28bf972c95087227833d28aa0eb80d8c.jpg

 

I reseated all the chips, and realized I had accidentally placed the unneeded LS74 where the LS08 belongs. I corrected this and gave the board a once-over for solder bridges, etc.. It now powers on to a blank white screen. Could I have done damage having the incorrect chip in U18 initially? Any suggestions would be most welcome, my troubleshooting skills are not particularly strong.

 

All the Atari VLSI chips were verified working, except for FREDDIE, which I was unable to test. Crossing my fingers for him!

 

EDIT: added picture of my board's current state:

20210819_214519.thumb.jpg.94d57104d38699ef0df830d244fc3c63.jpg

Edited by adam242
Added picture

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@adam242

I see that U34 is missing. You must to add the two bridges as it look at note below.

 

Also Basic ic U4 and the mod before that?  Although it will must boot in "test mode" even without this.

Edited by santosp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, santosp said:

@adam242

I see that U34 is missing. You must to add the two bridges as it look at note below.

 

Also Basic ic U4 and the mod before that?  Although it will must boot in "test mode" even without this.

Thank you for the quick response.. Same results with those two jumpers added.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/12/2021 at 11:08 PM, wildstar87 said:

You need to jump pins 5-6 on the U12 footprint, otherwise no worky..

 

I have also tried this, no change to my board. I have re-verified all the salvaged chips (except FREDDIE, might order one).

My RAM chips are KM41464AP-12, not -10 as suggested. Could this be my issue?

 

@Dropcheck Did you ever get your board functional? Did you end up using a crystal, or make the oscillator work?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few questions for you adam242, you say you are using the standard video output, have you tried the UAV output, since you have that populated?  Are you getting any sound, you know the standard "pfffftttt" when it boots?  If you are getting sound, at least that narrows down to video issues most likely.

 

I would suggest highly that you get the U34 populated with the sram13.jed flashed to it.  There are a lot of signals being remapped through that chip.  My note was definitely with the 512k SRAM, and U34 22V10 installed.  The only difference with my setup was no battery backup.  This remake board was designed specifically for the 512k integrated, just from probing myself, I know that the MMU Pin 16 that is normally connected to Freddie Pin 4, is not physically there, specifically to use this memory upgrade, normally you would have to lift that pin and solder to it, connect it to the 22V10, and some other stuff.  It probably won't work without it. 

 

Not sure why you are leaving the memory upgrade out, it's not like the chips are expensive.  It's less than $10 for both chips (512k SRAM, and ATF22V10C) at Digikey.

 

I can't see what Santos said with the two bridges so not sure about that.

Edited by wildstar87
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI, just in case anyone didn't know.  You can use the AT28C64 to replace the 27Cx, and it is much easier to get, plus as an EEPROM it is easily re-flashed, no UV needed, you can use this as replacement for Basic roms.  Also the GAL22V10, can be replaced with ATF22V10C also an EEPROM, again easier to source, and flash (at least with a TL866II+ burner).  This is what I am using in my board.

Edited by wildstar87
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, wildstar87 said:

A few questions for you adam242, you say you are using the standard video output, have you tried the UAV output, since you have that populated?  Are you getting any sound, you know the standard "pfffftttt" when it boots?  If you are getting sound, at least that narrows down to video issues most likely.

 

I would suggest highly that you get the U34 populated with the sram13.jed flashed to it.  There are a lot of signals being remapped through that chip.  My note was definitely with the 512k SRAM, and U34 22V10 installed.  The only difference with my setup was no battery backup.  This remake board was designed specifically for the 512k integrated, just from probing myself, I know that the MMU Pin 16 that is normally connected to Freddie Pin 4, is not physically there, specifically to use this memory upgrade, normally you would have to lift that pin and solder to it, connect it to the 22V10, and some other stuff.  It probably won't work without it. 

 

Not sure why you are leaving the memory upgrade out, it's not like the chips are expensive.  It's less than $10 for both chips (512k SRAM, and ATF22V10C) at Digikey.

 

I can't see what Santos said with the two bridges so not sure about that.

I've left the memory upgrade out for now because I do not have a programmer for the GAL (or the PIC, or the BASIC ROM) yet. I have the chips. Hoping to get this up and running in its most basic form first.

 

I have not tried UAV, and there is no sound at this point.

 

Thank you for your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi i have some issue with my board (PAL)

 

All works fine, SIO (floppy, tapes), cart (side3, games), joy ports, music, 512MB RAM, self test.... but i have some problems with video

 

1) stock setup + GTIA = i have blurred display and blue boot screen is little green. I'm trying adjust 500K resitor, but blue color show only at moment, next going black and white (screen 2)

2) UAV setup + GTIA = screen i correct, but still issue with colors (screen 3)

3) stock setup + SOPHIA replacement = colors is correct, but screen is still blured

4) UAV setup + SOPHIA replacement = colors is correct, screen is correct 

 

I'mt trying other GITIA, MMU but still same issue....I have no idea anymore. What else could be wrong? 

 

1_IMG_20210826_224920.jpg

2_IMG_20210826_171047.jpg

3_IMG_20210826_180556.jpg

image.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see the Atari original ic "Basic" in your pcb!? Have you modding the board as to work with this ic? If not please remove it, and check again your screen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes is original, after remove no difference - now i'm read it may not work with custom basic

 

what is recommended in order not to modify the pcb board?

 

 

Edited by Santyago

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Santyago

You must follow this. If not the Atari could be work without the ic on its socket, but without the "Basic" blue screen also.

Edited by santosp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could the 2 people with issues post a picture of the underside of the board, so we can see the solder joints clearly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been idle for a while and just started working on my 130XE remake board.  Here's my progress so far:
IMG_3118.thumb.jpg.190d51e7ad47d00770b19f531801f997.jpg

Mine's a 1221 board so I feel a little like I might be missing out a little on the ability to use larger ROMs in the BASIC slot. And I don't have the convenient A5 pin, though I haven't noticed much else different. 

I had a nice time desoldering the entire J4 A/B assembly from my donor 130XE without damaging it.  I noticed the right-angle cartridge connectors I had ordered didn't let the cart seat deeply enough once installed in the board, so they came out and the original entire J4 assembly went in. 

This one will be an NTSC board.  I do realize that there are too many components installed in the PAL area.  (I was in "Solder by numbers" mode when I was installing things, and was just putting everything in the holes labelled for them.  The components that aren't needed for NTSC will be removed later.)

It will eventually have Sophia 2 installed.  The cable connector is pretty hard to find right now and I might end up de-soldering one from a Sophia DVI board I have handy.   

I find that I don't actually know what gets installed in the holes just below the words VIDEO SETUP...

I'm also short some resistors and capacitors that were backordered. 

Also, when I ordered the Mouser shopping cart, I got some components that I think were intended more for the 1271 board, as I have some leftover resistors, capacitors, and chokes in values that don't correspond to anything on the 1221 board.

I currently have the following extra components that came with the shopping cart order but don't have a slot on the board:

8 - 4.7K ohm resistors
1 - 180 ohm resistor 
1 - 33K ohm resistor (Perhaps this goes in the 36K ohm slot?)
1 - 75 ohm resistor (Perhaps this is an alternate value for the 82 ohm slot?)
2 - 2.2uf 25v capacitor
1 - 10uf 10v capacitor
1 - 100uH inductor
1 - 47uH inductor (perhaps this goes in the 47MH slot?)
 

Empty slots still on the board:

4 - 1K8 resistors
2 - 1K5 resistors
3 - 2K resistors
1 - 10K resistor

1 - 36K resistor

 
Empty slots still in the UAV area:

1 - 10K pot
1 - 47MH inductor
2 - 1K24 resistors
1 - 10M resistor
2 - 2M2 resistors
3 - 10uF capacitors (backordered)
1 - 100uF capacitor (listed as not used and jumpered in errata file)
1 - GAL22V10 (on order)


The rotary switch S2 on the back side of the RAM expansion will get installed as soon as I dig up a diagram or picture that shows me which orientation it goes in.  

If anyone notices any issues I haven't, I'd like to hear about them before this ever sees power :)

 

 

 

Edited by Krenath

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Krenath


1. As for the orientation of the rotary switch take a look here in picture at the bottom of post.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4809969

 

2. Move also your main crystal in upper two holes like in this picture.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4849499

 

3. Remove the unnecessary components from PAL clock feed area.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4846113

 

4. The idc connector below the "video setup" isn't needed in your case.

 

5. 47uH inductor must placed in the UAV area.

Edited by santosp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, santosp said:

@Krenath


1. As for the orientation of the rotary switch take a look here in picture at the bottom of post.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4809969

 

2. Move also your main crystal in upper two holes like in this picture.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4849499

 

3. Remove the unnecessary components from PAL clock feed area.

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319881-atari-xe-remake-pre-order-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4846113

 

4. The idc connector below the "video setup" isn't needed in your case.

1.  Soldered in the rotary switch with the 0 facing the front edge of the board as shown.  Thanks!

2.  Moved my main crystal to the top two holes as pictured. 

I am curious, however:  On the 1221 board, there are four holes rather than three in that area.  If I move it to the top two holes instead of the middle and bottom hole, it appears that it ends up connected to the same traces on the back side, as the top hole and bottom hole are connected together: 

 1204078461_image0(7).thumb.jpeg.dedc58ad28f926a27f2a2f22bb8a1c4c.jpeg1835239024_image2(2).thumb.jpeg.81e49eed68a2810222442c52fcbc333e.jpeg

Please pardon the dirty board.  I haven't cleaned off all the spattered rosin flux (and cat hair that sticks to it.  yuck.) yet.
 

3.  Working on removing the extra PAL components currently.

4.  Thanks! 

When would that connector be used?  Is it intended to be something like one of these?  https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/61201021621?qs=W%2B2sBeLta1a0dwX5pxbfXw%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmqKJBhAWEiwAMvGt6EOFUq3Qi1xXUks9JieGirrPp_6bLTFBht4QQiMdvIe5XzPkYnGDnxoCh4YQAvD_BwE

 

Edited by Krenath

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Krenath

About the crystal. If you ever will use the upper metallic shield there, the previous place of crystal it not let the shield to fit correctly.

 

About the connector. Yes this is the right connector,  but it only makes sense if  someone want to add a VBXE device there.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/20/2021 at 3:29 PM, santosp said:

:idea:Important Info:idea:

 

Completing today the assembly of a board from this last batch for a  buyer, I discovered something that I should inform you. This has to do with the "Basic rom" of the computer.

First of all I must to say that back then during the design, I was thinking about the difficulty that someone will face in the "seemingly" easy finding of the Basic rom, in case it does not have the original from a donnor Atari.

So I decided to make a change in the second and last version of the board, to give the option to someone to use a usual 27C64 or 128 or 256 or 512 eprom for this purpose. Now I realize that I made a small mistake regarding a signal, the pin Nr 2 of Basic rom. I have connect it to 5 volts.

So you need to follow the photo below to fix it.

So this board can not work using the custom Atari OTP rom, but with any 27C..... as desribed above.


Once again to apologize for my negligence .... 😑

 

 

IMG_20210620_221541-1600.jpg

Can more modern EEPROM be substituted in place of the UV Erase EPROM? Like these ST27C64?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is really a modern eeprom? I mean, can you find a datasheet for this specific mark number, in ic shell?

To me look more like an old "1988" OTP rom.  But even in this case if you can write it it should work. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. Some progress.

 

  • Basic fixed by flash W27C512 and follow above instruction
  • Proper color fixed by replace new crystals
  • Stock + composite = proper screen
  • Stock + S-Video = still blurred (photo)
  • UAV + composite = proper screen
  • UAV + S-Video = proper screen

I think is something wrong with stock & s-video setup, because happen stranger thing: 

 

When I set stock jumper settings and connect two plug to TV (composite and SVIDEO) both modes are blurred. When unplug SVIDEO, Composite back work propertly. S-Video on stock always is blurred.

 

 

IMG_20210830_150611.jpg

IMG_20210830_151259.jpg

IMG_20210830_151326.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...