Jump to content
santosp

Atari XE Remake Pre Order Thread

Recommended Posts

11 minutes ago, Matej said:

2x board for me, I am from Europe

You are a bit late to the party, I think it's sold out now and the only way to get a board is from the Abbuc store

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of transistor is Q3 (npn or pnp)?
The lettering for Q3 is missing on the mainboard (abbuc version).

Q3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the pcb (Abbuc-version),  three 4,7 uF "Bipolar" Caps are drawn (Tantal?). Also in the Component List. But in your mouser basket are three normal Elecrolytic Caps (not bipolar) 4,7 uF listed. What should i use: Bipolar or normal Elko?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:idea: An urgent update for those who want to assemble the UAV circuit on this board.

ON semiconductor announce the "end of life" of NCS2563DR2G video amplifier.

This crucial component for the assembly of UAV circuit will be discontinued by the manufacturer after 8 July 2022.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, santosp said:

:idea: An urgent update for those who want to assemble the UAV circuit on this board.

ON semiconductor announce the "end of life" of NCS2563DR2G video amplifier.

This crucial component for the assembly of UAV circuit will be discontinued by the manufacturer after 8 July 2022.

 

Is there any suitable replacement/substitute available (considering other manufacturers).

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Ferrite Beads (2Ohm / 5) are currently not available at mouser. Not again until December. Is there an alternative for this? Can I use Beads with other values?

 

like these:

 

40X FRH035060-A Ferrit: Perle [email protected] 100MHz: 60Ω Montage: THT [email protected] 25MHz: 30Ω FE | eBay

or

https://www.reichelt.de/emv-ferrit-entstoerfilter-axial-21-ohm-10-mhz-bead-8-21-p105526.html?&nbc=1&trstct=lsbght_sldr::7112

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the original schematic of the 512k extension from hias is a note, to set two connections if you don't use the battery and the DS1210 IC.

If i don't use U12 (MXD1210) should i set two jumper on the empty socket of U12 (1-8 and 5-6) to set the two bridges like in the digram?

 

 

without_battery.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, santosp said:

@olix

You must do a solder between the pins 1 and 8 of U12.

Just to be absolutely sure and not to make a mistake:

I only need to do a solder between 1 an 8 of U12?
I really don't need a connection between pin 5 and 6 of U12?
In the original circuit diagram from HIAS, this is expressly listed in note 1, if no battery is fitted. Otherwise the connection between the GAL (pin 18) and the memory chip (pin 22) would be missing.

 

 

no_bat2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Should the stock keyboard work when TKII is used? PS2 work fine, but stock keyboard no (only reset button). After remove PIC, stock keyboard back to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just taking a moment to show off my completed build..

 

I chose to outfit my board with the Atarimax 32-in-1 Warp OS module for speed and 800 compatibility, as well as a POKEYmax for stereo sound. Both upgrades were greatly simplified by santosp including so many thoughtfully labelled breakout points. Audio out is available on both the enhanced 8-pin monitor port and a 3.5mm phone jack.

 

Yes, that is a light-grey Lego 2x4 tile used to block off the RF and channel-select  switch holes, and to provide a mounting surface for the stereo phone jack.

 

All wrapped up in a very clean case and keyboard I set aside for this project. Finishing touch is an 'XE-touch' keyboard upgrade from Best Electronics. Anyone who hasn't experienced this yet, it is an absolute revelation.

 

Unfortunately, I did not know that POKEYmax and TransKey II don't get along with each other, so for now the PS2 keyboard jack is useless. I have searched the forums for a solution to this but have not found one.

 

Thank you, @santosp for creating this board! I have now been able to build the 'perfect-for-me' 130XE I've always wanted.

 

Shout-out to @Stephen for programming the TK2 PIC for me. Works great with a genuine POKEY. Hopefully I can get POKEYmax to cooperate.

board.jpg

audio jack.jpg

overall.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, adam242 said:

Shout-out to @Stephen for programming the TK2 PIC for me. Works great with a genuine POKEY. Hopefully I can get POKEYmax to cooperate.

There is this -

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I think TKII works pretty well with pokeymax if you flash a recent core. I have the XEGS to test with.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, update both the the tk if possible and the pokeymax... it's good to be up to date with the fixes, even if not needed now, you never know when things won't get along or will be moved to another machine that needs them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, foft said:

Yeah I think TKII works pretty well with pokeymax if you flash a recent core. I have the XEGS to test with.

Cool. So flashing with v1.21 should make my TransKey happy?

 

Also, my PokeyMax is model 111MO2SC, so I cannot use the .xex flash tool. Would this USB Blaster be up to the task?

 

This project is really forcing me to update my electronics tools. And skills.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, adam242 said:

Cool. So flashing with v1.21 should make my TransKey happy?

 

Also, my PokeyMax is model 111MO2SC, so I cannot use the .xex flash tool. Would this USB Blaster be up to the task?

 

This project is really forcing me to update my electronics tools. And skills.

I am using PokeyMax v3 with the latest firmware of TK-II no issues.  I did have to follow the suggestions from Mytek pasted  below, because with the PIC chip in the socket my Atari keyboard did not work initially.  After the CTRL+ALT+X on the ps/2 keyboard then I was able to use both my Atari and the PS/2 at the same time.

 

 

On the PS/2 keyboard press CTRL+ALT+X (Alt+X will show present setting - you want it to be OFF). This is a toggle function, so each time you press that 3 key combination you will toggle to the opposite setting (either ON or OFF). Whatever your last setting was, that will be restored upon power-up the next time around.

 

This will float the KR lines going to Pokey and allow both keyboards to work.

 

Hope that helps :)

 

BTW, the latest firmware (V2.7J) is the one to use, since it corrects a problem associated with the stock keyboard's CRTL, SHIFT, and BREAK keys.

Edited by venom4728a
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
56 minutes ago, venom4728a said:

I am using PokeyMax v3 with the latest firmware of TK-II no issues.

Hmmm... it is awfully tempting to order a v3 (with quad POKEY, stereo SID, etc) for this 'perfect Atari' and just install my v2 in a different machine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...