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Atari XE Remake Pre Order Thread

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1 hour ago, venom4728a said:

I had to disable the encryption.  I purchased 5 and only one of the 5 took the program successfully.

 

  The five I purchased were used.   I have since purchased 2 new chips but have not tried to program them yet.

 

I have been looking at getting a newer programmer to see if that us my issue.

 

Thing is I'm not using encryption.  At least that I know of.  I'll check and go ahead and try the rest of them.  My programmer is not having any other problems.  Worst case I'll have to order a couple more GALs.

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4 hours ago, Dropcheck said:

Having an issue with programming my GAL22V10D with Horus's v1.3 jed.  I am getting a vector test fail indication on five of the 10 chips so far.  I tried re-downloading the jed individual file and the zipped file directly from his website.  My programmer claims it can program these chips and everything goes well until it attempts to verify the programming.  Is it possible I got bad/fake GALs?

Have you tried simply ignoring the verification results and just plugged the GAL into the socket on the motherboard to see if it works?

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41 minutes ago, mytek said:

Have you tried simply ignoring the verification results and just plugged the GAL into the socket on the motherboard to see if it works?

I suppose I could try.  Not quite ready to power up yet though.  Just a few more checks and board/parts review to make sure I have everything installed.

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Okay first power up:

 

No keyboard attached. Using a DIN5 to composite/r&l audio RCA cable.  UAV settings

Initially I got a audio tone and a bluish/black screen.  Turned the computer off and reset the DIN5 cable into the connector.

Now I am getting a blue blank screen with a definite reddish tint.

 

I'm assuming that one of the main Atari chips are not working.

 

Before I start pulling the chips and doing the mamba swap with my Atari 800XL to see which one is bad, has anyone had a like issue?

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I propose you, your first tries on the Atari to be as stock as possible. This include the video signal also.

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Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, santosp said:

I propose you, your first tries on the Atari to be as stock as possible. This include the video signal also.

It's set to stock video and no SRAM now.  Same display and now have tone back.  I do have all of the PAL clock circuitry installed, but no PAL crystal.   Would that cause an issue?

Edited by Dropcheck

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Atari boot with normal tone in "Basic" and bad picture, or not?

Is a NTSC or PAL implementation? If its NTSC, you must remove some components and add a jumper on "0" Ohm resistor above U21.

Remove U21, Q6.  Same for 1K & 10K resistors, which are place in up - left from Q6.

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15 minutes ago, santosp said:

Atari boot with normal tone in "Basic" and bad picture, or not?

Is a NTSC or PAL implementation? If its NTSC, you must remove some components and add a jumper on "0" Ohm resistor above U21.

Remove U21, Q6.  Same for 1K & 10K resistors, which are place in up - left from Q6.

All PAL circuitry removed.  No tone, but still blank blue screen with red tint.

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Maybe pictures from your pcb and what is appear in the  monitor,  could help me understand better. 

Would be good these to be as clean as possible, especially the pcb.

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20 minutes ago, santosp said:

Maybe pictures from your pcb and what is appear in the  monitor,  could help me understand better. 

Would be good these to be as clean as possible, especially the pcb.

DSC_3778smaller.thumb.png.012dfaea7a6d05751abb3ca988f9b956.png

 

Sorry, my 15 year old camera ain't what she used to be.  It flatly refuses to take a pic of the monitor.

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Lenore I see that you use a crystal oscillator! I think that in this case you must remove the 4 passives right of crystal!

 

But I am not sure :roll: because I have not any reference to check this. In both pcb assembly which I did, PAL/NTSC, I used a crystal resonator!

 

Please check also these two pictures below...

 

Pic 1

Pic 2

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Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, santosp said:

Lenore I see that you use a crystal oscillator! I think that in this case you must remove the 4 passives right of crystal!

 

But I am not sure :roll: because I have not any reference to check this. In both pcb assembly which I did, PAL/NTSC, I used a crystal resonator!

 

Please check also these two pictures below...

 

Pic 1 208.61 kB · 0 downloads

Pic 2 2.32 MB · 3 downloads

FYI   I have verified that the main Atari chips and the OS are good in another 800XL.  I could not test the Freddie, but I just got that one in from Best Electronics, so I doubt it is bad.

 

So you are saying that these circled passives need to be removed if I am using a full can crystal oscillator?  I can remove the can and get a crystal resonator if you aren't sure. 

 

DSC_3784.thumb.png.6ad2bb293f5d9c65002bd78ccbde265e.png

Edited by Dropcheck

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As I said I have not such an Atari for reference, so maybe this is the problem. If not you must trace clocks and signals here and there, to to end up somewhere.

I assembled a NTSC Atari for someone and I used the same pcb. It worked perfect.

 

https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_06/IMG_20210623_203602.jpg.f78f749ad331756ba49e084e15388be4.jpg

 

 

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Is that HatdresetOS in Dropchecks board what I think it is? No more need to switch off computer? Where can it be found?

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@santosp

 

I'm a little confused between the components advised to omit for NTSC originally VS the board you just posted I see a number of them populated. Can you clarify? (I've left that part of the board til last) 

 

 

NTSC Suggested.jpg

NTSC.jpg

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@orpheuswaking

In both cases the pcb will work. As you can see this board was already assembled. This second occassion is for the pcb which has already assembled with all the components and needs to removed only the absolutely necessary, unlike the one who has not yet started to assemble the pcb. 


So for you occassion stay in what you know.

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1 hour ago, santosp said:

@orpheuswaking

In both cases the pcb will work. As you can see this board was already assembled. This second occassion is for the pcb which has already assembled with all the components and needs to removed only the absolutely necessary, unlike the one who has not yet started to assemble the pcb. 


So for you occassion stay in what you know.

Excellent, thanks!

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Hello everyone. I wanted to show you all what the board looks like in black, as I just received a new batch made in this color. I'll start building this week-end, and will post updates here as it progresses. This is a batch of 5, 3 of which I'm keeping for myself and a friend. Another is already sold, which means there's one remaining, that I'll send to the first who direct messages me (don't respond/spam here).

IMG_20210716_110744.jpg

IMG_20210716_110728.jpg

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3 hours ago, wildstar87 said:

Nevermind, I figured it out.  I can be stupid sometimes..

share your moment, many wallow for fear of looking stupid but really need your experience to show them the way to enlightenment!

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Ah nothing special, I just misread in the VBXE install instructions the D6XX connection, thought it was only needed if using U1MB.  It doesn't work to good without it.  I couldn't figure out why it was working in my 1088XEL, but not on this board.  RTFM closely..

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