Revision 6 BennVennn Solderless LCD

[Darien]

Just a heads up really as I saw pre-orders are on the site. I missed getting one of his screens previously. It mentions Power supply protection to help prevent irreparable damage to your Lynx if your power supply fails (Very common if not recapped/refurbished). I've seen posts about Lynxes being fried due to some failing on-board components. Would it prevent that ?

[nyandeyanen]

It's not foolproof but it's intended to. You still need to get the MOSFET and zener replaced at a minimum, it tries to prevent damage but doesn't fix the problem. The Lynx won't power up normally until the power supply components are working as they're supposed to.

[7800 2]

So I didn't want to start a new thread for this but it is sort of on topic. I just got a new BennVenn mod to install on one of my Lynx systems and I think I stripped the LCD and the control locking socket. I there anything I can do? I really don't have the soldering skills to replace it. I there any one who could help?

Edited May 18, 2021 by 7800 2

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Just so i understand...

 

You are saying that the original socket that the LCD used to plug into is stripped in some way? Or is the plastic that snaps down to lock the cable in place broken?

 

Eitherway, the solderless drop in kits still have solder points on the board where you can solder in actual wires off the back of the LCD connector to the LCD board just like before the solderless kits were made available. So even with a broken connector, you don't have to replace the connector to use BennVenn kits.

 

 

[7800 2]

Yes, the connector is stripped and won't hold the ribbon cable in. I also managed to do the same thing with the control ribbon connector. I really don't know how to solder.  

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Well the socket for the Lynx membrane flex is a different story. That has to be in functional condition to get the Lynx to power on and have all controls and face buttons working. It will still usually work okayish as long as it is seated in there fully without being tightened down with the socket clamp, but they really shouldn't be totally stripped. Even if you pulled on the cables without releasing the clamps, that would most likely damage the cable but not so much the socket. Especially the control membrane flex as that mostly uses carbon traces on the points that connect into that socket and yanking it without loosing the clamp would likely strip that carbon right off the flex membrane.

 

[7800 2]

5 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well the socket for the Lynx membrane flex is a different story. That has to be in functional condition to get the Lynx to power on and have all controls and face buttons working. It will still usually work okayish as long as it is seated in there fully without being tightened down with the socket clamp, but they really shouldn't be totally stripped. Even if you pulled on the cables without releasing the clamps, that would most likely damage the cable but not so much the socket. Especially the control membrane flex as that mostly uses carbon traces on the points that connect into that socket and yanking it without loosing the clamp would likely strip that carbon right off the flex membrane.

 

The cables themselves look just fine, I just can't get them to lock in place and stay.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Well again the LCD can be wire soldered in to still work without the LCD connector. But the controller and button flex connector would have to be replaced if that is broken.

 

[7800 2]

1 hour ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well again the LCD can be wire soldered in to still work without the LCD connector. But the controller and button flex connector would have to be replaced if that is broken.

 

I've never actually soldered before, would it be doable to put new connectors from a scrap Lynx?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Let's take this to PM if you want to discuss this more.