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I present to you, the 7800Jr. Case


PacManPlus

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@PacManPlus I like it so far, though I concur with Jesse's suggestions for venting/back port for modded connections. My setup doesnt have room for side outputs, and my own 7800 therefore has the s-video/composite out of the back. 

 

I know you already did it as a green prototype, but I was wondering if would be possible to do it in at least the styling of the 7800? By that I mean black w/ a silver plating (not sure if this would overcomplicate it, or even be possible with 3-d printing).  Otherwise, I like the smaller design and may be interested if this ever comes for sale. 

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I recommend adding vents along the front (or sides) at the bottom and more venting along the back from left to right. This would create a convection cooling effect to better regulate the 7805 temperature.

 

BTW I could make a metallic silver strip with vinyl if you're ever interested, just give me the dimensions you'd need it in.

Edited by Bratwurst
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3 hours ago, Bratwurst said:

I recommend adding vents along the front (or sides) at the bottom and more venting along the back from left to right. This would create a convection cooling effect to better regulate the 7805 temperature.

 

BTW I could make a metallic silver strip with vinyl if you're ever interested, just give me the dimensions you'd need it in.

Yeah I suggested more venting in an early post. Although I also stated that swapping out the 7805 with a DC-DC regulator would help quite a bit as well. But still requires more venting on the front sides to help with the 6502 and the other big chips to have someplace for that heat they give off to go. The 6502 especially gets hot and I've thought of sticking a heatsink onto mine to help draw that heat aware from the chip package.

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Hey guys:

 

Ok, so the ideas I'm going with are:

 

- Putting vent holes (like I have in the back) on the left and right side of the case (my OCD won't let me put them on just one side).

- When I first started this project, I brought up to Rose Mary (who has a Cricuit) about using Vinyl for the badge... but I wanted to try and handle it with an alternate color on my 3D printer (it has two extruders).  I didn't care for the results, so, I may go the vinyl route instead.  I have one more thing to try first:  I may make the letters a bit bigger and put them *above* the buttons (instead of on them like they are now).  I may also move the Atari logo and '7800' wording over and make it slightly bigger.  (I see that @Bratwurst offered the Vinyl badge as well - thank you! :) )

- A changeable back panel.  For different setups (original RF, or some sort of AV mod).

 

The reason why it's taking me so long to do this is because I'm still getting used to this new 3-D printer (my old one died).  I'm still getting issues with the first layer not being laid correctly, corner lifts, cool spots in the heated bed, etc.  And it's very annoying.  I had this down with my Creality CR-X. :mad:

 

 

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54 minutes ago, PacManPlus said:

Hey guys:

 

Ok, so the ideas I'm going with are:

 

- Putting vent holes (like I have in the back) on the left and right side of the case (my OCD won't let me put them on just one side).

- When I first started this project, I brought up to Rose Mary (who has a Cricuit) about using Vinyl for the badge... but I wanted to try and handle it with an alternate color on my 3D printer (it has two extruders).  I didn't care for the results, so, I may go the vinyl route instead.  I have one more thing to try first:  I may make the letters a bit bigger and put them *above* the buttons (instead of on them like they are now).  I may also move the Atari logo and '7800' wording over and make it slightly bigger.  (I see that @Bratwurst offered the Vinyl badge as well - thank you! :) )

- A changeable back panel.  For different setups (original RF, or some sort of AV mod).

 

The reason why it's taking me so long to do this is because I'm still getting used to this new 3-D printer (my old one died).  I'm still getting issues with the first layer not being laid correctly, corner lifts, cool spots in the heated bed, etc.  And it's very annoying.  I had this down with my Creality CR-X. :mad:

 

 

Take your time Bob and when you have everything available, I will find someone to create one of these for me for my still basically stock unit that has a very weathered looking case (Although it is still intact). Or swap in my daily driver into one of these and use its case for the other 7800.

 

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10 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

- When I first started this project, I brought up to Rose Mary (who has a Cricuit) about using Vinyl for the badge... but I wanted to try and handle it with an alternate color on my 3D printer (it has two extruders).  I didn't care for the results, so, I may go the vinyl route instead.  I have one more thing to try first:  I may make the letters a bit bigger and put them *above* the buttons (instead of on them like they are now).  I may also move the Atari logo and '7800' wording over and make it slightly bigger.  (I see that @Bratwurst offered the Vinyl badge as well - thank you! :) )

If going vinyl, it could work quite nicely with an Irish 2600 style black label:

 

Atari-2600-jr-pure-black-pi__atari__cx_2600_junior_black__08-250x158@2x.jpg.3ed079e3001f2ccc696c369b3aca1f15.jpg

 

white2600.JPG.a3a2fbf190eec233133187f76168c969.JPG

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Cool! :)

 

17 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Take your time Bob and when you have everything available, I will find someone to create one of these for me for my still basically stock unit that has a very weathered looking case (Although it is still intact). Or swap in my daily driver into one of these and use its case for the other 7800.

 

Are you kidding?  You saved my CCII that I thought was long gone.  I am forever in your debt! :) I will print one for you...  That is, unless you would rather someone else print it :ponder: :D 

 

12 hours ago, doubledown said:

If you need any help test printing anything let me know, I have an Ultimaker S5 Pro at work:

 

2EK8hU.png

 

I know I've got PLA, Tough PLA, ABS and Nylon filaments on hand.

WOW! I bet that one has none of the issues I mentioned earlier...  Tough PLA would probably be the one to use...  Although I have Carbon Fiber filament; DYING to try that. :D

 

7 hours ago, juansolo said:

If going vinyl, it could work quite nicely with an Irish 2600 style black label

Hmm...  Those pictures give me an idea...

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On 5/29/2021 at 10:41 AM, PacManPlus said:
On 5/29/2021 at 10:41 AM, PacManPlus said:

WOW! I bet that one has none of the issues I mentioned earlier...  Tough PLA would probably be the one to use...  Although I have Carbon Fiber filament; DYING to try that. :D

 

As mentioned, it's one I have at work...not one I personally own (like the CNC mill I get to use for my custom controllers)...but I am the one who runs it as needed.  I had never 3D printed anything before we got this around the beginning of this year, and I've not had even one remote issue or failure with anything I've printed with it yet.  Of course this has nothing to do with me, but rather the unit, and it's software package. 

 

I have seen that there is carbon fiber and some even more exotic filaments out there, I swear I saw some sort of wood type filament exists too.  When we got the unit we got a big bundle of filaments to test with, including those I mentioned above...and I will say that I love the PVA water soluble support material for it's supreme ease of removal after printing.  The 6 spool climate controlled material handler section below the printer is nice too for large print jobs, where you can insert multiple spools of the same material, and as one finishes, it will pull back the remaining bit, load the new spool, and continue/finish the print all on its own.  Its a magical time to be alive!

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Ok, Version 2:

 

- Changed Badge to approximate the metal strip on the original 7800 / 2600 Jr.

- Added vents to left and right sides

- Added back changeable plate

 

What I'm still not happy with, are the words on the front.  I think my next step is to change Power, Pause, Select, and Reset to 'The Power Symbol (shown below), "P", "S", and "R" as large letters, and put them back on the buttons:

Power Icons - Download Free Vector Icons | Noun Project

 

 

Please forgive the corner lifts and the little issues (like between the fuji and the word 'Atari'), I'm still working on tweaking this printer:

 

20210605_094445.jpg

20210605_094356.jpg

20210605_094405.jpg

Edited by PacManPlus
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The vents on the sides need to be closer to the front of the case not the back or in the middle slightly front as that better matches up where the large IC chips are on the sides.

 

The changeable plate is cool! But I leave the RF intact whenever possible so was thinking more about those plates being on the top shell to the left side as you are looking at it from the back. Another idea is to make the case a little long front to back to allow space for AV jacks that could be mounted. As an example I mounted my s-video and composite jacks one below the other along the right side spine on the back as an example of what I meant?

 

Also don't forget that some people still have expansion ports on the left hand side of the mainboard and that sticks out about a mm further. If @CPUWIZ's clue's are anything to go by, we might want that space to be open as well so that even those without expansion ports, can have one added when needed in the future? Maybe another plate that can be removed or designed to slide upward out of the way for use and slide down when not needed?

 

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21 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

The vents on the sides need to be closer to the front of the case not the back or in the middle slightly front as that better matches up where the large IC chips are on the sides.

Moved forward. :)

 

21 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

The changeable plate is cool! But I leave the RF intact whenever possible so was thinking more about those plates being on the top shell to the left side as you are looking at it from the back. Another idea is to make the case a little long front to back to allow space for AV jacks that could be mounted. As an example I mounted my s-video and composite jacks one below the other along the right side spine on the back as an example of what I meant?

I can't put a changeable plate on the top left (looking at the back) - that's the only corner that doesn't have a screw hole (there isn't one in the motherboard there) so I'm using a clip to hold that end down which clips into the square hole for the power connector.  I need strength in that corner.

 

What I can do is extend the plate into the top half of the case to have more room to put things like connectors, etc.

 

29 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Also don't forget that some people still have expansion ports on the left hand side of the mainboard and that sticks out about a mm further. If @CPUWIZ's clue's are anything to go by, we might want that space to be open as well so that even those without expansion ports, can have one added when needed in the future? Maybe another plate that can be removed or designed to slide upward out of the way for use and slide down when not needed?

Is there anything that uses that now?  I don't recall CPUWIZ mentioning anything using that port... 

 

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1 minute ago, PacManPlus said:

What I can do is extend the plate into the top half of the case to have more room to put things like connectors, etc.

 

Is there anything that uses that now?  I don't recall CPUWIZ mentioning anything using that port... 

 

@CPUWIZ has hinted more than once that there could be a good reason for adding in the expansion port to your 7800 if it doesn't currently have one now. Though for what that use might be, he hasn't stated. So it was just a thought to either design and offer the lower shell with an opening for the expansion port should it have one or something.

 

What I meant about the top left was as you are looking at the back of the console. The top right looking at the back, is where the RF modulator is so you can't put it there. But the left hand side has more space since all that is there is the main filter cap and power port. And again, if you remove the original voltage regulator and replace it with a DC-DC switcher, you don't need the heatsink anymore and the open ups the whole back center rear of the console at that point.

 

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I think I'm going to do the DC-DC switcher on both of my 7800s... so I can get a better idea of the real estate available.

 

Ok, I will need a little time to redesign the back, and then it might be a requirement to replace the DC-DC switcher for this case.

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