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PacManPlus

I present to you, the 7800Jr. Case

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Posted (edited)

Hi guys:

 

I've been working on this a while.

 

Some apologies:

- I used fluorescent green filament (and white for the badge); it was one of the few filaments I hadn't opened yet and I wanted to use a brand new one.

- Sorry about the color bleeds, blobs, and corner lifts.  My old 3D printer just committed Hara-Kiri and I have a new one so I am learning the nuances of this one now.

 

This case is smaller, fits with or without the RF shielding (I would suggest without when I print with clear filament), and the board sits flat (meaning the AtariVox will now fit without the need of an adapter/cable).

The opening in the back is for the screw that holds the large heat sink on.

 

Speaking of heat, I haven't tested how this will hold up when the 7800 gets warm.  PLA filament was used.

 

What do you think so far?

 

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20210513_082007.jpg

20210513_082025.jpg

Edited by PacManPlus
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I like it, and it could be modified to already have openings in place along the back in some way for those with AV mods that might need to be brought over. 

 

In regards to heat, you not only have to worry about the original voltage regulator, but the MARIA and 6502 also can get really warm. Especially the CPU. The RIOT and TIA don't really start to heat up unless you are playing 2600 stuff but even then they don't get as warm as the other two do. I even thought of installing heatsinks onto the MARIA and 6502 on my 7800s as a preventive measure. So another thought might be to at least add vent slits on the left hand side of the shell to help vent that out?

 

But, you can eliminate the heatsink and original voltage regulator and remove that part of the heat from the equation if you replace the original linear VR with a DC-DC switching regulator.

 

While you are at this, have you thought about redesigning a new cartridge port sleeve to allow better use of 3rd party 2600 games? If you made the snap tabs on the bottom larger and thicker than the originals that were used, you could do away with the screws that the original uses, open that part of and that would allow tigervision carts and the supercharger to fit without issue at that point as well.

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks! :)

 

42 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

I like it, and it could be modified to already have openings in place along the back in some way for those with AV mods that might need to be brought over. 

Thank you - Yep, I thought of that.... You can't see it in the picture, but that 7800 has an A/V mod in it.  One hole for S-Video, the other for 1/8" audio jack.

 

42 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

In regards to heat, you not only have to worry about the original voltage regulator, but the MARIA and 6502 also can get really warm. Especially the CPU. The RIOT and TIA don't really start to heat up unless you are playing 2600 stuff but even then they don't get as warm as the other two do. I even thought of installing heatsinks onto the MARIA and 6502 on my 7800s as a preventive measure. So another thought might be to at least add vent slits on the left hand side of the shell to help vent that out?

Ugh.  Can they reach 212° F? PLA starts to get malleable at that point.  I can add vent slits if the left side if need be.

Worst case scenario I can try it with ABS or some other. 

 

42 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

But, you can eliminate the heatsink and original voltage regulator and remove that part of the heat from the equation if you replace the original linear VR with a DC-DC switching regulator.

...that sounds like a -^CrossBow^- thing, not a Bob thing :P :D  

 

42 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

While you are at this, have you thought about redesigning a new cartridge port sleeve to allow better use of 3rd party 2600 games? If you made the snap tabs on the bottom larger and thicker than the originals that were used, you could do away with the screws that the original uses, open that part of and that would allow tigervision carts and the supercharger to fit without issue at that point as well.

Curt had given me a .STL for a new cart guide a while back.  We both worked on it (me more on the testing side) and it seems to allow for all types of cart cases. :)  It was originally for the XM, but can be used on the 7800 itself.

 

 

 

Edited by PacManPlus
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Just now, GoldenWheels said:

love it.

 

Now do the 5200! XD

I think the motherboard would have to be redesigned first :P 

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3 minutes ago, PacManPlus said:

I think the motherboard would have to be redesigned first :P 

Ha! I know some of us have just run the damn thing through a saw to cut off the controller box. There's some width that could be trimmed off too I think, been a while since I was inside one.

 

If you make a 7800 Jr with glow in the dark filament, I could buy one to match my gitd Baby Pac....matching sets, MATCHING SETS!

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14 minutes ago, GoldenWheels said:

Ha! I know some of us have just run the damn thing through a saw to cut off the controller box. There's some width that could be trimmed off too I think, been a while since I was inside one.

 

If you make a 7800 Jr with glow in the dark filament, I could buy one to match my gitd Baby Pac....matching sets, MATCHING SETS!

Good point, my UV power indicator would be even more interesting in a case like this. Might have to add more of them along the inside of it or something.

 

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2 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

Hi guys:

 

I've been working on this a while.

 

Some apologies:

- I used fluorescent green filament (and white for the badge); it was one of the few filaments I hadn't opened yet and I wanted to use a brand new one.

- Sorry about the color bleeds, blobs, and corner lifts.  My old 3D printer just committed Hara-Kiri and I have a new one so I am learning the nuances of this one now.

 

This case is smaller, fits with or without the RF shielding (I would suggest without when I print with clear filament), and the board sits flat (meaning the AtariVox will now fit without the need of an adapter/cable).

The opening in the back is for the screw that holds the large heat sink on.

 

Speaking of heat, I haven't tested how this will hold up when the 7800 gets warm.  PLA filament was used.

 

What do you think so far?

 

20210513_081948.jpg

20210513_082007.jpg

20210513_082025.jpg

Awesome!  I have been thinking of creating a new case to replace the shattered one I got with the first 7800 I ordered, but I wanted to make room specifically for a mount for the UAV and A/V ports.  Pretty sweet!

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https://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Transparent-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07C7WWX8Z/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=transparent+pla&link_code=qs&qid=1620920247&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-4

Then you can light it with RGB for the young ones.  Ha ha  (seriously, I hate RGB lighting, BUT if I'm going to have a clear blue Concerto cart, I was thinking a new case for the 7800 could be a clear colored one).

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@leech mentioned having a shattered case on his 7800...  Someone here (I forget who) had a picture of their broken case as their avatar...  That's actually what inspired me to do this.  Nobody should have a broken 7800. 

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7 minutes ago, PacManPlus said:

@leech mentioned having a shattered case on his 7800...  Someone here (I forget who) had a picture of their broken case as their avatar...  That's actually what inspired me to do this.  Nobody should have a broken 7800. 

Yeah, I ended up ordering a second 7800 because of it.  And then repairing the board of the other one, as it had a lot of corrosion on it, and I had to replace all of the front buttons and joystick ports.  But needed a case for it, but have been procrastinating on doing any 3D design... also haven't fired up my 3d printer in a lifetime.. I have a few things I need to fire up.

 

As far as plastics go.  ABS is supposed to be much better for longer lasting things (like if you did a case for the 7800!) as PLA will weaken in sunlight and such.  Though ABS is stinky to print with, so last time I tried printing something with it, it cracked as I had opened the window and had a fan going, so made it too cold in the room (it was winter) and the layers wouldn't bind to each other.  So my rather long print job fell in half when I picked it up (it was a Buddha statue with Akbar's head).

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It's a trap!

 

1 minute ago, leech said:

Though ABS is stinky to print with

I don't know why, but for some reason this made me LOL!

 

I have some ABS, but as you eluded to, it's a PAIN to work with.  There's filament called 'Tough PLA' which is supposed to me much tougher (like ABS) but not as difficult to work with.  I have some, so I may give that a go.

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2 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

Thank you - Yep, I thought of that.... You can't see it in the picture, but that 7800 has an A/V mod in it.  One hole for S-Video, the other for 1/8" audio jack.

I meant along the back and not the sides. I'm not a fan of my cords coming out the sides of my consoles. 

2 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

Ugh.  Can they reach 212° F? PLA starts to get malleable at that point.  I can add vent slits if the left side if need be.

Worst case scenario I can try it with ABS or some other. 

I've not measure the temps as I only have a temp probe I can use with my meter, but they get hot enough that you don't want to keep your finger on them for any length of time.

2 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

...that sounds like a -^CrossBow^- thing, not a Bob thing :P :D  

It is a drop in replacement to the original VR. Look up Traco 2-2450. They aren't cheap, but you only have to desolder the original voltage regulator and then use needle nose to pinch the metal ends of the heatsink that go through the rivet holes on the 7800 PCB. The entire thing will pull out. Solder in the replacement DC-DC regulator in its place and that is all there is. When I offer it as a service to my clients, I don't even charge labor for replacing it, only the cost of the part really.

2 hours ago, PacManPlus said:

Curt had given me a .STL for a new cart guide a while back.  We both worked on it (me more on the testing side) and it seems to allow for all types of cart cases. :)  It was originally for the XM, but can be used on the 7800 itself.

Should try printing that up to see how well it works. The original 7800 cart sleeve is a modification off the 2600 one in that the dust pegs on the sleeve are only fractionally as wide as they were on the 2600 because the dust tabs on the 2600 sleeves are located where the extra pins for the 7800 cart pcb fits in. As a result, of this, Atari also added plastic to the base of the sleeve with both a shimming piece with a threaded hole on either end and a threaded opening on the bottom of the sleeve to screw it down in place along with some plastic tabs to snap the sleeve onto the PCB. The tabs are usually enough to hold it in but it still has some slop to shift around without those screws in place. But the plastic where the screws go, interferes with the dust pegs on tigervision carts (Likely a few others), and the supercharger. So if the snap tabs could be made more rigid without breaking and perhaps some plastic straight tabs added to help keep it aligned, that would eliminate the need for the extra plastic and screw so that could be opened up and allow for the carts to seat in fully and work properly. Course you need to widen the inside of the sleeve as well to accommodate the different thicknesses used in the carts that make many of them a tight fit currently.

 

But if you remove that heat sink you should be able to make room along the upper back of the shell for RCA and s-video jacks and maybe even one day in the future, an 8-pin or 9-pin AV jack for RGB solutions.

 

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41 minutes ago, PacManPlus said:

I have some ABS, but as you eluded to, it's a PAIN to work with.  There's filament called 'Tough PLA' which is supposed to me much tougher (like ABS) but not as difficult to work with.  I have some, so I may give that a go.

Very nice!  I hadn't heard of that.  I'll have to get some for some of my projects.

 

4 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

But if you remove that heat sink you should be able to make room along the upper back of the shell for RCA and s-video jacks and maybe even one day in the future, an 8-pin or 9-pin AV jack for RGB solutions.

I started looking into RGB solutions for the 7800, are there any currently out there for it?  Hooking it up via SCART through either my OSSCs or the Samsung 910MP monitor I have would be pretty sweet!

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The more I think about this thing the more I think I need a Bob Decrescenzo Signature Series case. Hand signed and numbered, natch.

 

So far as the cart guide from Curt, I wonder if that was the same as the one he sold via his syzygy store? I put one of his cart guides in one of my 7800s and it handled games others wouldn't (tightness wise).

 

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, leech said:

I started looking into RGB solutions for the 7800, are there any currently out there for it?  Hooking it up via SCART through either my OSSCs or the Samsung 910MP monitor I have would be pretty sweet!

There are two projects I'm aware of that were looking into it:

 

Tim Worthington who has created the NESRGB and 2600 RGB solutions was looking into one for the 7800. But there hasn't been any news on that in several years.

 

SainT who developed the Jaguar and Lynx Game Drive flash carts is also working on a 7800 RGB solution. Last I heard on that project was months ago and he was getting prototype PCBs made. I've not heard or seen anything beyond that.

 

Techncially for the 2600 side of things, you could likely adapt Tim's 2600 RGB to that, but that would only be for 2600 games and I'm not sure how that would impact the 7800 side of things.

 

@PacManPlus I think the best solution would be to have a section on the upper back of the shell that has slats on it so that different plates could be slid in that would have pre-made holes for whatever was needed. For instance if someone wanted full RCAs, you could have the three 1/4" holes in place for that. If they wanted RCAs for composite and audio and s-video, then you add in the extra 9/16" or 14mm opening for instance for the ones I use. But with 3d printing available, you could have the opening have the flat side to help keep the s-video jack from twisting over time and stuff like that. If they want TRRS jacks, then you just provide a plate with again some 1/4" or whatever for 2.5mm or 3.5mm TRRS jacks. This way the jacks and wiring can be done without the bulk of the case in the way and then the plates slid into the upper housing during assembly.

 

 

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6 minutes ago, GoldenWheels said:

The more I think about this thing the more I think I need a Bob Decrescenzo Signature Series case. Hand signed and numbered, natch.

 

This👍 Bundled with a PMC 40th Anniversary Edition, of course.

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4 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

 

@PacManPlus I think the best solution would be to have a section on the upper back of the shell that has slats on it so that different plates could be slid in that would have pre-made holes for whatever was needed. For instance if someone wanted full RCAs, you could have the three 1/4" holes in place for that. If they wanted RCAs for composite and audio and s-video, then you add in the extra 9/16" or 14mm opening for instance for the ones I use. But with 3d printing available, you could have the opening have the flat side to help keep the s-video jack from twisting over time and stuff like that. If they want TRRS jacks, then you just provide a plate with again some 1/4" or whatever for 2.5mm or 3.5mm TRRS jacks. This way the jacks and wiring can be done without the bulk of the case in the way and then the plates slid into the upper housing during assembly.

 

Ok, I REALLY like this idea.  Kind of reminds me of what some people did with the 5200 and that... 'door' underneath and toward the back of the systsem.

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4 hours ago, GoldenWheels said:

 

So far as the cart guide from Curt, I wonder if that was the same as the one he sold via his syzygy store? I put one of his cart guides in one of my 7800s and it handled games others wouldn't (tightness wise).

I believe it is one in the same.

 

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5 minutes ago, PacManPlus said:

Ok, I REALLY like this idea.  Kind of reminds me of what some people did with the 5200 and that... 'door' underneath and toward the back of the systsem.

Yes that is where I install the AV jacks on 5200 services. But that door plate isn't that secure over time so I have to add epoxy the inside edges and corners to make sure the door stays put. @Albert know that well with his 5200 systems.

 

But if you make it designed more for this purpose and make it thick enough to not be impossible to install AV jacks but also be more secure, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

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35 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Yes that is where I install the AV jacks on 5200 services. But that door plate isn't that secure over time so I have to add epoxy the inside edges and corners to make sure the door stays put. @Albert know that well with his 5200 systems.

 

But if you make it designed more for this purpose and make it thick enough to not be impossible to install AV jacks but also be more secure, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

I created a design to replace the door instead of cutting up my original one.  I am pretty sure I uploaded it to thingiverse.

 

This one isn't mine (mine was RGB, not DVI)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4730986

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5 hours ago, leech said:

I created a design to replace the door instead of cutting up my original one.  I am pretty sure I uploaded it to thingiverse.

 

This one isn't mine (mine was RGB, not DVI)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4730986

Should never assume that everyone owns or has access to a 3D printer for things like this...

 

 

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