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UAV mod help


unixdude

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Hey, all.  Yeah, it's me again. :)

 

After I realized that my 2600's S-video issue was related to the S-video cable, I decided to finish up my 5200's UAV  install.  That meant I was to solder the UAV onto my 5200's 4050, and put the system back together.  After I did that, I tested and found that now the colors on the 5200 are all out of whack.  This 5200 worked perfectly on both S-video and composite until I soldered the UAV onto the 4050.  Did I maybe kill the 4050?  See attached pics.

 

I show the AtariMax menu so that you can see the line on the top and bottom.  This is new today.  I show the Missile Command startup screen so that you can see the lines on the colors -- previously these colors were solid as they cycled.

 

I would appreciate any pointers to what happened here.  Constructive feedback also accepted on how to do a better job with the UAV.  I bought some dupont connectors today, a crimp tool, and some wire, and that will definitely help with future installs.

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Edited by unixdude
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My guess is that not all of the pins are soldered down well to the 4050 and aren't making proper contact. Also double check that you have those jumpers in the correct positions. I can't really seem them well in the pic your sent.

 

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Thanks, I think that might have been it.  I decided to desolder the UAV from the 4050, then solder a socket on top of the 4050 - kind of like what @DrVenkman did to his UAV-modded 5200.  That way, I could easily solder all 16 pins (can't get 8 of them under the UAV if soldering that one directly onto the 4050!), then drop the UAV into the socket.  Did that, and bam - perfect video - see pics.

 

Thanks so much, @-^CrossBow^-, for suggesting that I add S-video.  The difference really is quite something.  I don't think it's going to get any better for my 5200, without going to something like a Sophia.

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Edited by unixdude
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?

BTW I actually do solder the socket that comes in the kit ontop of the 4050 just as you did. If the 4050 is socketed already, then I remove the 4050 and desolder the original socket (most of them are single wipe anyway), and then solder the 4050 directly to the mainboard, followed up by soldering on the new socket on top of it for the UAV to seat into. The height of the UAV is about exactly where it needs to be when you do that.

 

 

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  • 5 months later...
On 7/5/2021 at 11:13 PM, -^CrossBow^- said:

?

BTW I actually do solder the socket that comes in the kit ontop of the 4050 just as you did. If the 4050 is socketed already, then I remove the 4050 and desolder the original socket (most of them are single wipe anyway), and then solder the 4050 directly to the mainboard, followed up by soldering on the new socket on top of it for the UAV to seat into. The height of the UAV is about exactly where it needs to be when you do that.

 

 

Do you recommend doing that for all consoles & computers, or is this specific for the 5200?

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7 hours ago, pedalpowered said:

Do you recommend doing that for all consoles & computers, or is this specific for the 5200?

Mostly for the 5200 in this case. I did the same thing with my 130xe, but the height of the UAV was still a tad too tall and I ended up using my dremel to cut out an opening in the RF shield for the UAV to fit through. It did technically still seat in place with the UAV there without the hole, but then the green terminal block and artifact adjustment trimmer were actually pressing up against the shielding and causing it to bulk so not ideal. Cutting an opening through the RF on the 130xe allowed me to access that trimmer for better adjustment with everything essentially together too.

 

But on the 5200, that is what I do with both 4 and 2 port model units. The new machine pin sockets that TBA has been providing are more stiff though and so you have to be careful soldering that socket on to the 4050 as machine pins aren't designed to flex and bow outward like is needed in this case. But it can be done.

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