FijiNet and 1200XL Run Very Hot Together

[KLund1]

I have been using FujiNet a lot these past few days. Learning how to use it. Wonderful device!

After a couple hours, I have noticed the FujiNet, and just the right on the unit at the rear of my 1200XL, it gets VERY Hot. I'd guess about 110'-120'f. You do not want to leave your hand there. I do not have a fancy remote thermometer to get an accurate number.

I have tested this a bit further and it is about the same while in use with wifi, and idle and connected to wifi.

I noticed this after I had let the system stay on when I went to run some errands. When I came back there was lots of noise on the left side of the attract screen. Attract worked changing colors. but the otherwise the system was locked up. I went to press the fujinet reset button and noticed the heat! lots of it.

After I let both cool, and restarted they were working normally. Then I monitored the temps as noted above.

Before I noticed the heat, I had upgraded from ver 1.3x to 1.5x.

Is this normal? What more info is needed to be helpful

[+DrVenkman]

That's right where the 1200XL heat sink is located inside the case. It does get pretty warm there. Having said that, I've used my FujiNet devices with my 1200XL's for over a year with no heat-related issue. 

 

When you say:

49 minutes ago, KLund1 said:

I noticed this after I had let the system stay on when I went to run some errands. When I came back there was lots of noise on the left side of the attract screen. Attract worked changing colors. but the otherwise the system was locked up.

What did you have running on the Atari when it locked up?

 

[KLund1]

I think it was just sitting the FujiNet main screen. It was probably sitting a good 4+ hours idle with I got back and noticed it. (a/c room 75', not in sunlight)

More testing with various setups and it get very warm with my SpartaDOS X Super Cart running. Just looking at disks dir's and some disk formatting on a USD 1050. Oh, moved a few files. Nothing major.

It is less hot with other carts, games. Warms up more with use, loading files from internet, or coping from internet to SD.

Does get hot with "printing" a long Basic listing, but that would seem normal as the radio is in heavy use. But it is very hot. I would not want to touch the heat sink! The outside cart and case were quite hot.

 

I bring this up as I am going to show it this weekend at VCF-W. It will be on probably 8 hours straight, 2 days. I will put a small fan on it just to be cautious. 

[_The Doctor__]

make sure that current limiting resistor is not on the SIO port and that you are using the proper power block for the 1200XL, it should be and AC supply, not DC, the 1200XL does it's own conversion and regulation... folks have accidentally used DC supplies overtaxing half of the rectification and regulator circuit and expressed as heat while the other half is doing nothing at all... check and make sure electrolytic filter caps are not dying or dead already...

[KLund1]

Tested Cap in the "hot" area with my incircut DCR tester. and bad news C41, C99 and the big one C39 all read low. And of course I do not have any new of that size.

I use a standard rebuilt Atari PSU with near perfect output. 

Now adding to my DIgiKey shopping list. C41 & C99 are 22uf 16v. Is there a better uf and voltage that would be better there. The C39 is 10,000uf 16V are there better values for this too?

Thanks

[+DrVenkman]

35 minutes ago, KLund1 said:

Now adding to my DIgiKey shopping list. C41 & C99 are 22uf 16v. Is there a better uf and voltage that would be better there. The C39 is 10,000uf 16V are there better values for this too?

Thanks

The capacitance values should remain the same for any new replacements you install. The voltage and maximum temperature ratings of the stock parts are the minimum acceptable value for any new ones. If you buy higher-voltage ratings, that’s fine but not particularly necessary. If your Atari sees voltages over 16V, the stock 7805’s probably can’t handle it anyway, since they were only typically rated for 16V maximum input anyway. Going to higher-temp is not a bad idea to assist with longevity. That said, Atari typically used good capacitors and the originals have lasted ~40 years, nearly always without much problem. So going to higher voltage and temp specs may be overkill. 

[KLund1]

Understood.

Many thanks for the quality advice.

Will order same value parts.