DavidMil Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 This is something that I have never come across before. I bought a 800 (case only), and when I took the 800 shell out I found that the cartridge cover would not open. I assumed that it was frozen from age so I removed the metal plate from the cover but discovered that the cartridge door was simply too tight of a fit and could not be opened. Even with the springs off there was no space tolerance for the door to open. Does anyone know if they made variations of the top cartridge and RAM covers? Judging from the evenly yellowed (and dirty) top pieces, I don't think that these are remade or parts. DavidMil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Wow, that is really odd, can't say I ever saw replacements from Atari, and it looks properly moulded..Deffo a first that I've heard of! You didn't shrink it in the washing machine, did you Sorry David, very odd.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 48 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said: You didn't shrink it in the washing machine, did you Sorry David, very odd.. May be an old question, but it's still cute! I'm convinced that only blue jeans and pull over shirts shrink (couldn't be me getting rounder?) in the washer! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 34 minutes ago, DavidMil said: May be an old question, but it's still cute! I'm convinced that only blue jeans and pull over shirts shrink (couldn't be me getting rounder?) in the washer! David Ha ha... I fear the roundness may be the culprit... It is here, lost loads and slowly built it back up.. Good luck with the door, sounds like you may need to shave the sides a little... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 (edited) This sounds like something was stacked on top of it and heat plus pressure over time deformed it causing it to bind and stick.. The solution I've use on other projects (including clear percom disk drive doors) was to gently apply pressure from the opposite directions of deformity and utilizing uniform gentle heating to let it return to original shape... then I used plastic safe lubricants/drawer wax depending on the binding situation to allow the parts to slide by each other and move freely. That includes hinges and latches. Edited September 30, 2021 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faicuai Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 4 hours ago, DavidMil said: This is something that I have never come across before. (...) Other that the right-side hinge being misaligned, I can't really see the problem (from lookin at the pictures). It would be great to see a side / transversal shot from any troubled side, to understand how the cart-lid is attached to its hinges and clearance with back-cover lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 There are two versions of that cover. The old one will have foam tape holding the cover shields in place, where the 'new' ones have no foam and no shields. They do not seem to interchange easily. Like, not at all... Bob 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Did the listing say the door worked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faicuai Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Alrighty! Without looking at the proper angle-shots, there's little we can do. Here's a 040 Cart+Bay cover (one with shield-plate on cart-door). and here's a 183 Cart+Bay cover (without shield on cart-door), head-to-head (in opposite sides of the temporal scale. production-wise): As a whole-structure, these two are FULLY INTERCHANGEABLE between their respective hosts (which are both in mint condition). The 040 original bay-shield has been delaminated (these ones come with a two-layer composite / laminate shield, which will partially separate or bulge with time, and expand in thickness, creating additional tension/stress to its x4 attachment beams). The 183 original comes with single-plate back-cover shield (better built, but safely stored and replaced with a delaminated plate identical to 040 cover.) Both cover units now allow safe extraction of IDC ribbon cables for multiple purposes (eg. PBI, Bit3, Sophia, etc,) without absolutely any modifications to the external 800 case, and will perfectly fit on 040 and 183 800s. I have not exchanged the CART DOORS between then, but I just can't see any difference between them, especially in the hinges and swivel-lip clearance either... Again, these are units manufactured in very different time-frames, far apart. We need sideways / upclose pictures of the affected unit, to understand what is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 On 9/30/2021 at 12:29 PM, Sugarland said: Did the listing say the door worked? No it didn't. Just said no cracks or gouges. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 On 9/30/2021 at 12:18 PM, bob1200xl said: There are two versions of that cover. The old one will have foam tape holding the cover shields in place, where the 'new' ones have no foam and no shields. They do not seem to interchange easily. Like, not at all... Bob No foam tape and it doesn't look like there was ever any metal shield on the 'door'. The problem was that the back side edge of the door lined up perfectly with the forward side of the edge of the cover, thus making it impossible to raise the door, but allowing it to be lowered a little past it's regular stopping point. The whole thing has now been fixed by sanding off the tiniest amount of plastic from inside each hinge (from the top cover), and from the round barrel (part of the door). The springs keep everything good and tight, so it seem to work fine now. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 On 9/30/2021 at 7:18 AM, _The Doctor__ said: This sounds like something was stacked on top of it and heat plus pressure over time deformed it causing it to bind and stick.. The solution I've use on other projects (including clear percom disk drive doors) was to gently apply pressure from the opposite directions of deformity and utilizing uniform gentle heating to let it return to original shape... then I used plastic safe lubricants/drawer wax depending on the binding situation to allow the parts to slide by each other and move freely. That includes hinges and latches. I was going to try heating it in the oven, but when my wife saw me going into the kitchen and I told her what I was going to put in her over; I changed my mind after looking at her face. Anyway all is well with an X-acto knife and a little sand paper. Thanks for the idea. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 lol, oven, only if it went super low temp, my current oven might melt stuff, I used a ceramic heater and a cardboard box, slow even heat. Other stuff hair dryer and heat gun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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