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Is there an aftermarket (3D printed) case for Incognito?


Beeblebrox

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I recently installed Incognito in my 800. 

 

One of the things that I've noticed is unlike the original Rom and ram modules and main IC personality board, obviously the incognito card sits in the edge connector without support. This inevitably means movement everytime you are removing or inserting the Compact Flash card.

 

So for the original modules and personality board you would have these which engage with the cage to hold them securely in place:

 

Atari 800 Expansion Slots Question - Atari 8-Bit Computers - AtariAge Forums

 

Atari 800 Personality Board (CPU Board) / OS Card CO12989 / CA014803 Cased 1979

 

I have also seen plastic support "widgets" that hold the incognito card in place:

 

FS / FT : Atari 800 with Incognito + Extras - Buy, Sell, and Trade -  AtariAge Forums

 

Incidentally I see the above image appears to have the missing brown plastic bits either side of the cage into which the modules engage.

 

So these:

 

image.thumb.png.b9510e8637178760947f6e46a0bd2b5e.png

 

I'd like to either source a similar widget above or ideally source a 3D printed encasing for Incognito. Is there one available which engages with the 800's cage and has all the required clearances? It would have to take into account the ribbon cable routing which mkes for a very tight squeeze against the aluminium sheild casing.

 

thanks

Edited by Beeblebrox
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3 hours ago, Rybags said:

Sounds like a worthwhile project - though I have no eligible 800 machine in my ownership.

 

But... does Incognito fit within the confines of a Ram expansion module (guessing some modification would be needed)?

@Rybags  If a 3D printed casing designed around the Incognito and the 800s cage was designed, with clearance for the ribbon cable, etc then I don't see it not fitting. It would be custom. We'd not be talking modifying an old plastic Rom/RAM casing in this instance. 

 

TBH thinking about it in creating a 3D printed case the majority of the strength and plastic would be at the top tbh, with minimal plastic material being needed further down. Provided the top engaged with the cage's recesses and held the card in place, it would be fine.

 

I can always fashion something myself for my own use but was just curious, given for example MrRobot makes 3D printed housings for the likes of Sys Check II, etc.  :grin:

Edited by Beeblebrox
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18 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:

If anyone wants to loan me an Incognito, a RAM expansion and be willing to be my tester, I'd be happy to take a crack at making a case that looks like one wrap around the other. 

 

PM me if you like, we can talk about it. 

 

 

@Mr Robot Cool. I would love to oblige but unfortunately I am the other side of the pond. Hopefully some kind soul near you Stateside will oblige. :D

 

Just to say the Incognito board plugs in to the old ROM card slot of the 800, at the front:

image.thumb.png.871da7123f2213cf2791cfd705e11155.png

 

image.thumb.png.67b86f85447395e7800b5bae17f89cec.png

 

As I mentioned earlier the majority of the support would just be needed at the top. So I'd not envisage a total wrap around like the Syscheck II has for example. The biggest consideration is the narrow gap between the front of the metal cage and the back of the incognito board, (as the ribbon cable passes under the front of the plastic part of the cage and around to the front connector on the chip side of the card). And of course also you need access to the headers at the top.

 

Best way to understand the tollerances is to watch Flashjazzcat's incognito install series (2 vids) here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vduEeKiMcWA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNXDEm-E3pc&t=0s

 

:)

Edited by Beeblebrox
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4 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

So for the original modules and personality board you would have these which engage with the cage to hold them securely in place:

I have owned Incognito since the very first production batch, almost 10 years ago.

 

i work exclusively with it, nowadays, being the 800 / Incognito my daily-drivers.

 

Based on my experience, I would not recommend  encasing Incognito for basically three (3) reasons:

 

  1. Radiating heat from normal operation: over time, temperature will reach ~40C inside the expansion bay, and that is with Incognito freely riding on Slot-0, and letting the massive shield-cage absorb part of the heat. Encasing Incognito will substantially reduce thermal dissipation efficiency, and rather build up heat easier:
    • 5E81ED57-CFB5-454E-BE5F-DABEE8B5BC8F.thumb.jpeg.d33c4ab5e7799e92967f226d1e37e267.jpeg
  2. Opposite to stock RAM and OS boards, Incognito requires three (3) different pin-headers and ribbon/cables to be connected to it. When servicing the unit for battery exchanges, occasional de-bricking, and cyclical rotation of your back-up Incognito (which is a must have for safety), you will find yourself preferring easy access to those pin headers. which may end up partially obstructed by the protruding shells of the case.
  3. Incognito can be nicely kept in place with the 800's original SLOT 0-3 tab/separator, and without any use of a back-board behind it, since careful folding of the main ribbon will serve as de-facto isolator from the shield-cage, while saving some space there.

 

In any case, anyone is free to attempt building such case as long as VENTILATION and free access to pin-HEADERs are properly addressed.

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@Faicuai  Thanks. Yup I totally agree with not encasing it and take your point about thermal dissappation. I mentioned in my posts above taking into account access to cabling and headers, etc.

 

I was eluding to just mainly having the top of the card anchored, where the plastic would engage with the 800 cage's brown moulded plastic recesses either side - with full access maintained to the Incognito and minimal plastic elsewhere, (if any). As mentioned in my first post I also talked about sourcing that simple widget i included a photo of, which now sounds like the Slot 0-3 tab/separator you have - that would be ideal :) Do you have any idea where to source the tabs?

 

 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Beeblebrox said:

Do you have any idea where to source the tabs?

 

From time-to-time (but rather infrequently) they show-up on eBay (I bought a set, quite a while ago, since I use them actively).

 

Now, this is precisely an item that is ABSOLUTELY worthy of 3D-printing reproduction, either on its standard form, and/or a derivative version improved to secure Incognito's on expansion bay:

 

A800-Incog-bay-1.thumb.jpg.cf2e97af706c5f9a6466e2a5bcd5d2ee.jpg

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8 minutes ago, Faicuai said:

 

From time-to-time (but rather infrequently) they show-up on eBay (I bought a set, quite a while ago, since I use them actively).

 

Now, this is precisely an item that is ABSOLUTELY worthy of 3D-printing reproduction, either on its standard form, and/or a derivative version improved to secure Incognito's on expansion bay:

 

A800-Incog-bay-1.thumb.jpg.cf2e97af706c5f9a6466e2a5bcd5d2ee.jpg

@Faicuai 

 

Now, this is precisely an item that is ABSOLUTELY worthy of 3D-printing reproduction, either on its standard form, and/or a derivative version improved to secure Incognito's on expansion bay

 

Totally agree :D- I reckon a redesigned one specific to the Incognito board and maybe even in two parts to allow both sides of the top of the incognito board to be supported while granting access, rather than just one side as it stands with the current one above. (Of course that may be overkill).

 

Thanks for the tips. :thumbsup:

 

@Mr Robot  What are your thoughts as this would be a far simpler widget to create?

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It's simpler than that probably, just an around the edges frame and top stabilization tongue. Marking it a cartridge width to pcb rail slit frame is all that would be required, emblazoned with incognito on the thick part. Very open air just grabbing the edges of the incognitos pcb in the slits and filling out the space a cart normally fills on the two sides, spacer tongue at the top

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I don't have a 3D printer, but I'd imagine 2 custom 'guides' that slide down the sides of the Incognito and engage like the tabs on factory cased cards could be made.  Install the Incognito then slide in the 'left' and 'right' custom parts to keep the Incognito from moving.  Since it wouldn't be a full casing for an Incognito it should not have any significant impact on trapping heat.

 

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you should consider getting a 3D printer, even the cheap ones can get good results and its very rewarding when your own design materialises into reality!

you may have to bin a few failed prototypes along the way but the filament is inexpensive

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@xrbrevin I had looked into it a few times and had on more than one occasion popped one in an online shopping cart and almost pressed buy. It came down to space on my work surfaces, (and probably the potential look of horror on my girlfriend's face), that stopped me each time.:lol:

 

A lot seem to be from China and take an age. Also a lot them are self assembly kits and whilst I'd be up for that because I'm not afraid to tinker as you probably know already, I kept coming back to these fully assembled models like the model below.

 

Don't know if anyone has any opinions on these? The are self contained and have a small footprint. 

 

Incidentally a few months ago when I saw this model and was tempted it was around the £145 mark. Seems they have doubled in cost now so I'd not consider it at that price. :-o Using it as just an example of a small footprint 3D printer.

 

da Vinci Jr. 1.0 3D printer (fully assembled)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393388493236

build size of 15x15x15cm and a resolution of 100 to 400 microns.

da Vinci Jr. 1.0 3D printer (fully assembled), FREE for: £12 300g

 

Given the 15x15x15cm build size, something like this if used to create a cradle for the Incognito might need to create two halves that clip together. This is because the Incognito is slightly wider at 15.5cm and the 800's bay inside measurement is 18cm

Edited by Beeblebrox
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1 hour ago, Beeblebrox said:

 I had looked into it a few times and had on more than one occasion popped one in an online shopping cart and almost pressed buy. It came down to space on my work surfaces, (and probably the potential look of horror on my girlfriend's face), that stopped me each time.:lol:

 

Man or mouse, in my case, eek eek...  No one needs the 'glare of doom'..

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haha

i got a chinese replica of a prusa printer for £90 quid a while back but as you say the prices have gone up. probably due to customer response?..

the catch turned out to be the chinglish assembly instructions. it seems they struggle to translate words like 'noggin', 'schnecker' and 'gimlet'..

however, with perseverance encouraged by the odd fluke i can now design and produce decent glossy objects. initially i got it for making PCB cases but after getting the hang of CAD design basics it has become a universal problem solving device for household, automotive and various other issues. plus i made novelty things for people at work, word soon got around and colleagues would put requests in! their desks are now riddled with plastic tat hehe

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@xrbrevin  Yeah, wish I'd bitten the bullet at the time and got me one (the 3D printer... not the necklace!:lol:;) )

 

Yup I can imagine it being very usefull havin one but as you say the temptation to generate tat is quick strong. ;)

 

I've also fallen foul of badly translated instructions. I tend just to work stuff out myself (I have reading instructions for self assembly furniture, etc etc).

 

 

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I got the Ender 3 Pro.   Absolutely LOVE it!   I also got the Ender Extender kit to double the build area.   (400x400x500)  but have not had the time to do it yet.    This thing rocks!   Best part is, it is open source!   There are so many mods out there.   You can add lights, a camera to watch your prints on your phone when you are away, 2nd Z motor, direct drive and so much more.  You can print 8-bit cart shells (2600 too!), those white sticks that go inside the CX40 joysticks, SIO connectors, 1050 bezels, all kinds of stuff.  Hell, you can print fully functional joysticks, arcade buttons and other stuff.  Just go on thingiverse and search "Atari".    This is the one I have on the right.   When I get the time, the kit I have will convert it to the one on the left.   I originally planned on printing a full size steering wheel with an adapter mount to go on top of a spinner, but I ended up buying a real racing wheel (for a car, not a PC) and just printed an adapter.  I have also printed the tap handles for Tapper.  All kinds of other arcade parts soon.

 

 

 Finally started my DIY Ender Extender 400XL build. Still a work in progress  but excited for the 400x400x500 build volume. Stock Pro for scale. :  r/ender3

 

Edited by scotty
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2 hours ago, scotty said:

I got the Ender 3 Pro.   Absolutely LOVE it!   I also got the Ender Extender kit to double the build area.   (400x400x500)  but have not had the time to do it yet.    This thing rocks!   Best part is, it is open source!   There are so many mods out there.   You can add lights, a camera to watch your prints on your phone when you are away, 2nd Z motor, direct drive and so much more.  You can print 8-bit cart shells (2600 too!), those white sticks that go inside the CX40 joysticks, SIO connectors, 1050 bezels, all kinds of stuff.  Hell, you can print fully functional joysticks, arcade buttons and other stuff.  Just go on thingiverse and search "Atari".    This is the one I have on the right.   When I get the time, the kit I have will convert it to the one on the left.   I originally planned on printing a full size steering wheel with an adapter mount to go on top of a spinner, but I ended up buying a real racing wheel (for a car, not a PC) and just printed an adapter.  I have also printed the tap handles for Tapper.  All kinds of other arcade parts soon.

 

 

 Finally started my DIY Ender Extender 400XL build. Still a work in progress  but excited for the 400x400x500 build volume. Stock Pro for scale. :  r/ender3

 

@scotty looks amazing. I can but dream. Not got the space in side the house and my workshop is all taken up by woodworking equip/power tools. Great you have been able to print out such a wide range of Atari related parts as well. :) Bet that wasn't particularly cheap?

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12 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

@scotty looks amazing. I can but dream. Not got the space in side the house and my workshop is all taken up by woodworking equip/power tools. Great you have been able to print out such a wide range of Atari related parts as well. :) Bet that wasn't particularly cheap?

@Beeblebrox Was not that bad...   I think I paid $150 USD.   I have printed a few things for people at work, and that help pay for some, if not all of it.   Believe it or not, the stock Ender 3 is pretty small, and does not take up a lot of room.   I have soooooo many ideas, but so little time for the things I want to do.  Aside from the full size steering wheel I mentioned, I came up with a 720 Arcade joystick that attaches to the top of a spinner, to play 720 in Mame.   I know, only one game that ever used such a controller, but if you want real arcade authenticity in Mame, only way to do it.   

 

I am old, so i like the leaf spring switches over the micro switch for buttons and joysticks.   There are several designs for printing your own leaf switches.   I also made a couple of sticks to go on top of the Intellivision controllers (on the disc).   Tried various sizes and ideas, including one with a ball on top, and it seems the shorter ones work the best.   This is an amazing tool, and you can pretty much make anything you can dream of.

Edited by scotty
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