Need help with Magnavox Odyssey AV/power hookups

[TheRealOC]

Morning all, poster from Ireland here, 

 

TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console.   

 

The Console:

 

I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT.

 

Power (Problem):

In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is

a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ),

b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and

c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. 

 

Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are:

INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ

OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 

3.5mm mono headphone jack

Tip positive for polarity

 

Power (Solution?)

So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are:

9V DC 1A
Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive)

https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v

 

So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough?

 

I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.")

 

Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon

 

 

AV Hookup:

I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. 

 

However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. 

 

I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg

On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). 

 

End of an entirely-too-long post

 

Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on

1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and

2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console

 

Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by TheRealOC

[Boojakascha]

1) You can't provide too much current. The console will draw what it needs and not any bit more. Also you can power it by batteries if you are hesitant to try out PSUs.

2) You can either pick up the RF signal from PCB or AV mod the console:

 

[Mikebloke]

I have to admit I've been powering it from batteries since I got mine, still the first set as well. I think mine did have a replacement battery case, but I think that was a long time ago too! 

 

I've had issues with getting PAL / uk tvs to get a signal too. I tried all sorts including VHS players, but sadly they were all PAL signals only. An RF to USB was the only thing I could find. 

 

But this is the other thing, I got a device that had a 'modern' wire that connects direct to RF. A lot of models had the very very very old system of two wires that you screwed into to make a connection on the back of the TV. There is ways of making your own RF cable, to circumvent a pre-mid 70s invention of the RF port. I don't even know if European tvs even had screws for cable wires back then! Perhaps we did too I just never seen it. 

 

Boojakascha is a better person to follow advice on than me though, I'm just glad my device even works, with the occasional use of board pulling and reinserting! 

[TheRealOC]

18 hours ago, Boojakascha said:

1) You can't provide too much current. The console will draw what it needs and not any bit more. Also you can power it by batteries if you are hesitant to try out PSUs.

2) You can either pick up the RF signal from PCB or AV mod the console:

 

 

1) Sorry for being dense, but does that mean the solution I linked above should work ok? 

( Atari 2600 PSU plus tip adapter plus travel adapter)

 

2) Thank you; that board to output composite video looks pretty intimidating (I'm not an engineer at all).

If I wanted to print off that board (just for myself, not to sell obviously), are there any online PCB printing services that you could recommend that will take orders for single units, or very low batches?

[TheRealOC]

15 hours ago, Mikebloke said:

I have to admit I've been powering it from batteries since I got mine, still the first set as well. I think mine did have a replacement battery case, but I think that was a long time ago too! 

 

I've had issues with getting PAL / uk tvs to get a signal too. I tried all sorts including VHS players, but sadly they were all PAL signals only. An RF to USB was the only thing I could find. 

 

But this is the other thing, I got a device that had a 'modern' wire that connects direct to RF. A lot of models had the very very very old system of two wires that you screwed into to make a connection on the back of the TV. There is ways of making your own RF cable, to circumvent a pre-mid 70s invention of the RF port. I don't even know if European tvs even had screws for cable wires back then! Perhaps we did too I just never seen it. 

 

Boojakascha is a better person to follow advice on than me though, I'm just glad my device even works, with the occasional use of board pulling and reinserting! 

Yeah, I have a UK CRT that only accepts PAL RF signals through the coaxial port.

 

Luckily, I have a reliable RF combiner/switch, a good NTSC RF-to-composite demodulator, and the CRT normally has no problem accepting NTSC through the composite port. So if I can get an RF signal out of the console, I think it **should** be ok in my setup (maybe... hopefully...)

[TheRealOC]

I did see an old post on the forums that mentioned getting a cheap Odyssey 300 console, cutting off the end that connected to the proprietary Magnavox type switchbox, and replacing it with a standard RCA connector (while keeping the end that connects to the console unchanged) Would that be a good solution for the video signal?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403147559663?hash=item5ddd7792ef:g:hvIAAOSwM2hhC5uO

[Boojakascha]

5 hours ago, TheRealOC said:

 

1) Sorry for being dense, but does that mean the solution I linked above should work ok? 

( Atari 2600 PSU plus tip adapter plus travel adapter)

 

2) Thank you; that board to output composite video looks pretty intimidating (I'm not an engineer at all).

If I wanted to print off that board (just for myself, not to sell obviously), are there any online PCB printing services that you could recommend that will take orders for single units, or very low batches?

1) Yes

2) Personally I go for Eurocircuits. Other people who used my designs went with Oshpark. Both stores will not assemble the boards. They just print them.
If you don't like using a PCB you can solder the components directly to the console. If you prefer a minimal solution just grab the two RF spots and solder them to a RF cable of your liking.

[Mikebloke]

I wonder if the company who built the multicards would consider building a batch. I imagine they did me a bit of a favour given the world climate at the time, but they actually asked me if I wanted them made up... They might be willing to give this board a go too.