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General 1050 repair question


ColleenLover

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Friends, can someone tell me.....

 

I am aware that the 1050 cases (shells) are different between the Tandon (Singapore)  and Hong Kong (World storage) versions of the 1050 drives.

(You cant fit one drive into the other case (wont align properly)..

 

But... What about the electronics?

Is it safe / possible to swap the 1050 motherboards between the drive mechs?

 

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Edit: Yes mechanisms can be swapped, with respective ROM swap if swapping between Tandon/WST.

Mix & matching 1050 motherboards & drive mechanisms is generally not recommended, as there is factory calibrations done on each motherboard for the WDC controller specific to the mechanism that was originally paired with it.

 

If you need to, the calibrations necessary require an oscilloscope to complete. See this thread for the process:

 

Otherwise, the electronics are similar, but the ROM for the WST drives has different stepper encoding specific to the WST mech for proper alignment (ie a tandon drive with a WST ROM would result in a 1/4 track mis-alignment, and probably too-fast a stepper speed to work with it's stepper motor). I think there may also be a variance in pinout of the headers that the drive mech attaches to at the back of the drive... (ie write protect)

 

Some drives also have the newer 2797 WDC controller, which is incompatible with the WST ROM, and requires Revision L for Tandon drives only.

 

I'm also not sure if the actual motherboard layout is slightly different to prevent it from fitting into a Tandon/Made in Singapore case...

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3 hours ago, Nezgar said:

... as there is factory calibrations done on each motherboard for the WDC controller specific to the mechanism that was originally paired with it.

 

The FDC calibration is chip specific, not mechanism specific. There is no need to re calibrate the FDC if you change the mechanism, only if you change the FDC.

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4 minutes ago, ijor said:

The FDC calibration is chip specific, not mechanism specific. There is no need to re calibrate the FDC if you change the mechanism, only if you change the FDC.

Ah yes you're right, thanks. ?‍♂️ Edited previous post. Rusty holiday brain.

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  • 3 weeks later...
29 minutes ago, Nickolasgaspar said:

Will it survive without anything in it? The seller doesn't seem to be willing to bother about it.

 

Most likely it will be fine but best practice to put the disk in or the old card insert.

 

More of a worry is a: the courier and b: the psu if it comes with one. Most people pack the drive well but stick the PSU in the box loose, bad move, the psu weighs a ton and lose in transport, it's like having a wrecking ball in the box. pad the PSU up and if possibly make sure there's a little compartment it can be wedged in.

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1 hour ago, Mclaneinc said:

 

Most likely it will be fine but best practice to put the disk in or the old card insert.

 

More of a worry is a: the courier and b: the psu if it comes with one. Most people pack the drive well but stick the PSU in the box loose, bad move, the psu weighs a ton and lose in transport, it's like having a wrecking ball in the box. pad the PSU up and if possibly make sure there's a little compartment it can be wedged in.

Well the drive is already shipped. Let's hope the seller did a good packing  job. He has an excellent rate (ebay) so I want to think he knows what he is doing. The  good thing is that the drive comes without a psu.... minus one threat for things going wrong . Thanks for your time.

Edited by Nickolasgaspar
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