Gitbizy Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 (edited) I have a 130XE with the ULtraspeed enhanced OS which has a 3 way switch in the back. When I put my Side3 cart in and power on the computer, most of the time it does not immediately jump into the side3 loader. please note that otherwise the 130 is working great, no issues with regular carts. I have the side3 cart switch in the UP position. I’ve found that by putting the OS switch on the 130xe in the “standard” position it seems to have the most success in coming up. However it seems like I have to power off the 130xe and wait 60 seconds and then power it on and SOMETIMES the Side3 comes up. note: I do not have the Ultimate1mb mod in this computer so I am using the side3 in standalone. I did see a post on this forum where some 1200xl users were having an issue with carts booting and that a fix was to swap in a different chip I believe a 74xxx series chip. i have updated the side3 to the latest firmware. So my question is, is this normal behavior for the Side3 to not boot the loader 100% of the time? I’d appreciate your input. Edited January 16, 2022 by Gitbizy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 You could try swapping out the logic chip 74LS08 with a 74F08 as in XEs this is well documented as in many cases improving stability. I know you haven't got the U1MB installed but it will possibly help with any SIDE3 instabilites (I think). The only thing aside that in your system is that you have the Ultrasped enhanced OS installed. So maybe there is a slight conflict with SIDE3? (Guessing here). Swapping out the aforementioned logic chip has helped me with 2 x XEs and SIDE3 (although both had U1MB installed as well). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gitbizy Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Beeblebrox said: You could try swapping out the logic chip 74LS08 with a 74F08 as in XEs this is well documented as in many cases improving stability. I know you haven't got the U1MB installed but it will possibly help with any SIDE3 instabilites (I think). The only thing aside that in your system is that you have the Ultrasped enhanced OS installed. So maybe there is a slight conflict with SIDE3? (Guessing here). Swapping out the aforementioned logic chip has helped me with 2 x XEs and SIDE3 (although both had U1MB installed as well). The only mode in which I seem to be able to get the side3 to work is when I set the OS switch to standard, which basically is turning off the US OS… and reverting the 130 to stock. I will also see if I have one of those chips… can’t hurt to try Edited January 16, 2022 by Gitbizy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 It is probably the PSU. Side3 is slightly 'picky' when it comes to PSU. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 Both suggestions above are valid. Replace 74LS08 with 74F08, and if that doesn't work, make sure the PSU is rated 2-3A and delivering a solid 5V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gitbizy Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 Thanks all-it appears to have been the PSU. I hooked up the original 130xe PSU and the cart loads each time I toggle the power 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 2 hours ago, Gitbizy said: Thanks all-it appears to have been the PSU. I hooked up the original 130xe PSU and the cart loads each time I toggle the power Out of interest and for posterity, what PSU were you using that didn't work well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gitbizy Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 I was using a usb to din connector that I bought right before Christmas. It came with a small ac to usb power brick. after I went back to the huge original 130xe brick, the side3 came up immediately, and I powered off/on a few times and each time side3 came right up. I will still order one of the 74 series chips next time a do a chip order just to have them on hand. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 lord, another on of these freaking usb power adapters again.... my griping continues with a passion how terrible they are... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 They seem great until they aren't. I got bit by this a while back too. The original hardware likes original power. Save the Killer Brick type supplies. Thank you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGB1718 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 6 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said: lord, another on of these freaking usb power adapters again.... my griping continues with a passion how terrible they are.. Agreed, I always use those that are built for the job, Raspberry Pi USB PSU's. The trouble with phone chargers, although they say 5V 2A etc. they put tiny thin wires that have trouble carrying that sort of current, when charging a phone or some other device, that doesn't matter too much just means a longer charging time, something you accept as normal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 How much can you draw from a USB? I have this figure of 1-1.5amps MAX from a USB in my head.. As for the little chargers, for the most part ignore the declared voltage and current on them, get a meter on them under load and most of them barely offer near the supposed numbers. Bit like buying a set of PC speakers from Ali Express, it will say 40W but in truth if you are lucky that is what they are at peak and in reality can't be driven anyway near 40W without severe distortion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGB1718 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 They can push much more than that, my current (excuse the pun) Pi PSU has a 2.5A output which it does have to supply else the Pi's would not work, they do higher current ones for the Pi 4 which has a greater need 3A or maybe greater. The highest output current I've seen on any charger is 5V@4.5A on a Huawei phone charger and seeing how quickly it can charge my phone I think it's actually putting out pretty much that current. Should be a nice PSU when I get rid of the phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) What about a standard PC USB slot, I know my Dell overloads on the USB at the drop of a hat without too much connected. Mind you, a lot of the older Dells were built with PSU's that were designed to run the machine as is with little or no changes to the system. When I upgraded my GFX card to a Geforce 750Ti I had to make sure the system would handle it. When I win the lottery the next PC will be a bit beefier I also have a Huawei, a P20 Lite and I use my Nintendo Switch charger, gave the Huawei charger to my daughter as a spare at Uni, works with her Samsung phone. Edit, did work with her phone until she managed to do her fave trick, bend the connectors far too much until they break inside. So many cables she has done it to, I repair what I can but she's adept at getting the break right on the edge of the sealed cable. Must dig in the spares box for a meaty 5V psu so I can make a spare for the Atari.. Edited January 17, 2022 by Mclaneinc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazzspeed Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 I've got a Comsol USB power supply with one 2.4A USB outlet and one 1A outlet, it powers my 600XL with SIDE3/U1MB and Sophia2 not a problem in the world. I use the 1A outlet to power my WiModem232. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGB1718 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 54 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said: What about a standard PC USB slot, As you've found out, depends on your PC, I have a tower PC and I think it can deliver 1A through normal USB , but there are 2 that can deliver 2.5A, (they may be the USB 3 sockets) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Wasn't sure if there was meant to be a standard for it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuxon86 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Just get a Meanwell RS-15-5 from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005T6UJBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the din cord from my old 800XL ingot and put the Meanwell in a project box with switch and fuse a la JanBeta. I'm activelly looking for a 120/110v to 9v transformer to put in the same box to power the 1050 drives that I still have. This last part is difficult since I can't seem to find any with acceptable current output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Just watched the latest JanBeta, yet another PSU box, got to say they look good.. The trouble for me is space, I won't embarrass myself by showing my desk, but it's packed solid.. I'll sort through my PSU box and I'm pretty sure I have a 5V DC with a good current rating to make a spare for the Atari.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 5 hours ago, Mclaneinc said: Wasn't sure if there was meant to be a standard for it.. 500mA I believe has always been the current output of a USB port. This may have changed with the advent of USB3, but I know on 2 and prior, it was very low. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+x=usr(1536) Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 9 hours ago, Stephen said: 500mA I believe has always been the current output of a USB port. This may have changed with the advent of USB3, but I know on 2 and prior, it was very low. By spec, USB 1 and 2 are 500mA. USB 3 bumps that to 4.5A on combined data and power ports; on power-only ports, that goes up again to 7.5A. For 3.x and 4.x, I don't recall off of the top of my head, but it's more than plenty for powering an XL or XE reliably FWIW, I'm also using RasPi 3B+ (2.5A) supplies with my 600XL and 800XL, and have zero problems even with their hardware being modified, running a SIDE3, etc. Everything already stated to the effect of, 'use a dedicated power supply, not one you plug a USB cable into' is a good rule of thumb based on my experience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 USB is a funky handshake system. If you have a USB 1 or 2 port and plug 2 300mA devices you should get an over current shutdown of the port. It is supposed to do that by design. As they say it's complicated. USB devices are supposed to advertise their electrical needs. This gets bad when a cheater product steals power at the bus but didn't send a request advertising what it needs, that $3 USB hub from the discount bin at Walgeens. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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