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2600 Jr. Turns on but no games


Kyou Fujibayashi

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First, have you permormed a seach of the forum, if not you may find server l previous posts that already cover this and offer suitable solutions.

That said on computer based system need three key features to function, power, a clock and to be relesed from Reset, the fact that it tuens on doed not necessarily rule out a power problem.

Additonally, if you want more specific help then you need to be more specific in your post and provide as much information as you can, for example, when it turns on is the screen just white noise/static, plain black, look like it is trying to display something (looks vaguly like an image of some kind) or just random colours as infomration like that could help to eliminate certain possibilities and point more to others.    

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It really nothing more than static, if it were displaying anything at all, I'd mention it. Only thing it does when I turn it on is flicker and the static changes a little but can't tell anything other than that. All I know is these were in a junk pile and the guy said here, take em. I had a 5200 way back around 1990 that wouldn't do any thing but put up a green screen. Back then, it was easy to order a replacement board for about $45 and simply swap.

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17 hours ago, splendidnut said:

Also, what kind of adapter did you use to plug into the coax input?

...And it is being plugged into an antenna input, not composite or component, correct?

 

Additionally, many modern TV tuners no longer support analogue channels.  If you have an older TV (or a VCR with RF input and composite output) laying around, you may want to use it just to be on the safe side.

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Just now, splendidnut said:

The NES adapter relies on a strong video signal to power it.  It's not really designed for the Atari... you'll need to use a different adapter like:

 

Coaxial (F-Type) to Female RCA Adapter

https://atariage.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=42

 

I actually have an original 2600 switch box but I don't have the cable. Keep in mind that this was part of a defective lot and I just hate seeing them go to waste. Would like to get them running g again and put them to regular use.

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8 minutes ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

Keep in mind that this was part of a defective lot and I just hate seeing them go to waste. Would like to get them running g again and put them to regular use.

I am keeping that in mind.

 

And I offered a solution.  Whether you find it worth using or not is up to you.  :)

 

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If you don't have a cable for the 2600 Jr... there's another option:

 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/134176-REG/Comprehensive_PP_FJ_PP_FJ_Male_RCA_to.html?ap=y&smp=y&srsltid=AQP2TeP1FZ-EhpBLsEvd7AiznBF8WcAnlVGmM310TfALckFdOAwn8k1mfeI

 

That is essentially the inverse connector... plug that into the back of the Atari Junior and then you just need a coax cable to plug it into your TV.

 

But being as you said "regular 2600s" earlier, this might not be the solution you are looking for.

 

BTW, you can probably pilfer a cable out of the others for testing purposes with the Junior if you need it.

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14 hours ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

These came from a game store as defective. He kept all cables and accessories so whatever is wrong will be internal. This guy doesn't miss thing. I'll try to get a better way to connect it. I have one cable somewhere that I need to check out

Open up one of the 2600As and remove its RF cable - it's plugged into the PCB (no desoldering required) and will connect straight up to the Junior.  You'll still need the F-type coax adapter that @splendidnut referred you to above, but it will be properly compatible.

 

The six-switch unit in the foreground of your picture may be a good candidate for RF cable donation as it appears to have its cable still attached.

 

If the others are missing their RF cables (2600 Jr. aside), be prepared for these to have been raided for parts and/or potentially severely defective.  Apart from cutting, about the only way that an RF cable goes missing from a non-Junior 2600 is if someone opened it up and physically removed it.  There's no telling what they may also have done while they were in there without taking a look for yourself.

14 hours ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

I'm assuming

And it's becoming apparent that this is the case.  We can't help you based on assumptions; without testing them, checking the units out internally, and reporting your findings back in a way that helps us to help you, figuring out what the actual issues are is at a standstill until those three things can happen.

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On 7/5/2022 at 7:33 PM, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

It really nothing more than static, if it were displaying anything at all, I'd mention it. Only thing it does when I turn it on is flicker and the static changes a little but can't tell anything other than that.

You said "nothing", some people may describe a blank black screen as nothing whereas to someone else static is nothing, depending on which it is depends on what can or cannot be elimited to seve time. As you have static the problem could be literally anything, although I would initially conclide that either it is is totally dead or the RF modulator alone is dead/not getting any signal.

If you have not already done so go here for schematics, and seach the forum for links to the field serivce manual, the schematics and servicing flow charts it contains many be of help.

But as a quick start I suggest staring with...

1) Power, ensure 5V DC is comming out of the regualtor and that both it and GND is going everywhere they should be, particularly the IC power pins.

2) The Clock, not just he XTAL pin of hte TIA but any pon maked with a "o" with a line through it. The clock is difficult to measure with just a multimeter but anything other than a steady 0V or 5V DC would suggest it is probably running.

3) Pins 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, & 9 of the TIA, as with the Clock anything other than a steady 0V or 5V DC would suggest it is probably generating video output. 

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30 minutes ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

Lmao

Given your admitted lack of familiarity with troubleshooting these units, no real information to go on as regards where to start assisting you with troubleshooting them, and that others have made this mistake before, asking the question of whether or not you've inserted a cartridge before powering them up isn't unreasonable in the least.

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2 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said:

Given your admitted lack of familiarity with troubleshooting these units, no real information to go on as regards where to start assisting you with troubleshooting them, and that others have made this mistake before, asking the question of whether or not you've inserted a cartridge before powering them up isn't unreasonable in the least.

Yeah, my nearly 40 years experience is with playing and collecting. Not repair. I've never needed repair on any of my systems and I don't have a shop/equipment. I'll just toss them out. No big deal.

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10 minutes ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

Yeah, my nearly 40 years experience is with playing and collecting. Not repair. I've never needed repair on any of my systems and I don't have a shop/equipment. I'll just toss them out. No big deal.

Is this where we're supposed to clutch our pearls and swoon at the very thought?

 

Whatever you may or may not do is beyond anyone else's control, so caring about what happens to your consoles really isn't on the menu.  Good job alienating yourself from potential help, though. 

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Any sort of repair on these units is going to require a Multi-meter (for checking voltages) and a soldering iron.  If you already have these tools, then you might as well try to fix these.  Or, if you're willing to purchase some packing/shipping suppliers, sell them... that's the American thing to do.  :)

 

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On 7/5/2022 at 1:20 PM, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

I actually have an original 2600 switch box but I don't have the cable. Keep in mind that this was part of a defective lot and I just hate seeing them go to waste. Would like to get them running g again and put them to regular use.

?

35 minutes ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

 I'll just toss them out. No big deal.

Make up your mind.......which is it? ?

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Is it wasteful? Is it not?

 

Is The Atari Report cancelled? Is it not?

 

.....these are the never-ending questions of our existence.

 

If you're just going to throw them out, and assuming he wasn't/isn't banned, paging @widowsson, who seems to have an unhealthy desire to acquire every Atari console ever manufactured.

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On 7/5/2022 at 3:05 AM, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

I acquired this and 4 regular 2600s that apparently ly need some kind of repair. I've tried several games but nothing. What would be the first thing I need to look at?

So this is essentially what we do. But seems odd given that...

13 hours ago, Kyou Fujibayashi said:

Yeah, my nearly 40 years experience is with playing and collecting. Not repair. I've never needed repair on any of my systems and I don't have a shop/equipment. I'll just toss them out. No big deal.

Recently we bought eight Jr's in various states for £50. Most without cases, all sold as non-functional. Some evidence that someone with little experience had a go at getting them running. See the thing is for us, £50 is easily covered by a few working TIAs, Riots, CPUs, Cart slots and other hardware as spares. As it was we ended up with 6 working boards, 5 dead ICs, and a few bits of hardware. A restored Jr on it's own out of the batch will cover the costs (we'll sell a couple of them). So it's worth doing and it keeps more Atari's alive. Binning them is kinda wasteful IMO as there are custom chips and parts in there that are getting difficult to get hold of and are only going to get worse as time goes on. Someone can use them.

 

As for buying non-working machines with little to no experience repairing them and asking where to start. That's fair enough, but honestly the best way to do that is make friends with someone who knows how to fix stuff and get them to go through it with you as all sorts can be wrong with them. You'll need to be able to read schematics, be decent with a soldering iron (it's not as easy as it looks as has been proven by some utterly dreadful soldering I get to see), you're gonna need diagnostic tools like a multimeter and ideally a scope or a data probe. We have a socketted up Jr board that we use to test ICs, it can be worth doing that to be sure, but again you'll need skills in soldering/de-soldering. It all takes time and patience.

 

As for where you do start, I always start with power. Do you have a known good PSU? Then you work into the machine where the power comes in, is switched and is regulated, is a solid 5v coming out of the regulator? Is that then getting to the ICs? That's all multimeter, and where I'd start with fault finding a non-working machine with nothing on screen. Where it goes from there depends on what results you get. They're all different.

Edited by juansolo
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