liquidcross #1 Posted April 2, 2004 I plan to build one of the aluminum switchboxes I found in the 5200 FAQ. Has anyone else ever built one? How well do they work? I'm sure I'll have no trouble building it; I just want to make sure the output is up to par and whatnot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ApolloBoy #2 Posted April 3, 2004 Yeah, I built one, but the picture quality's real nasty. Oh well, at least it gets some picture... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
liquidcross #3 Posted April 3, 2004 Yeah, I built one, but the picture quality's real nasty. Oh well, at least it gets some picture... How bad is it compared to the manufacturer's switchbox? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ApolloBoy #4 Posted April 3, 2004 Yeah, I built one, but the picture quality's real nasty. Oh well, at least it gets some picture... How bad is it compared to the manufacturer's switchbox? I don't have an official switchbox, that's why I made one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sku_u #5 Posted April 3, 2004 Try giving the author of this thread a PM. He had built one with some modifcations: http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43368 He may have some advice for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hex65000 #6 Posted April 14, 2004 Overall, the FAQ seems okay. I would make sure that you actually BUY an inductor to keep the RF off of your power line. The proper value is 2.7uH (microhenries). Remember, it's going to be carrying about an amp of current through that coil. If you pick a part that has too low of a rating it'll heat the wire up (increasing resistance) and eventually melt down on you -- that would be bad. I'm having problems fiding the supplier I used for that coil. I have notes somewhere I hope... The capacitor should be 0.001uF (microfarads). Not 0.01uF. As long as the capacitor is rated at 15V or greater you'll be fine. A ceramic cap should cost you much less than 0.50 . I do strongly agree with the auminum box statement. You want a good common ground (shield) for all parts of the circuit. Enclosing my switchbox design in a metal box would bring it closer to perfection... but it's costly, and that's a lot of drilling. For your needs, it might not be so bad. And remember before you plug everything in: Make _SURE_ that DC power does not go to your TV. I don't know what 12-15VDC will do to your antenna, but I'm betting it'll be a 'bad thing'. Good luck! Hex. [ _still_ needs to write a test procedure and mail everything out to Susuatari... Like I have free time ] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ApolloBoy #7 Posted April 14, 2004 Overall, the FAQ seems okay. I would make sure that you actually BUY an inductor to keep the RF off of your power line. The proper value is 2.7uH (microhenries). Remember, it's going to be carrying about an amp of current through that coil. If you pick a part that has too low of a rating it'll heat the wire up (increasing resistance) and eventually melt down on you -- that would be bad. I'm having problems fiding the supplier I used for that coil. I have notes somewhere I hope... The capacitor should be 0.001uF (microfarads). Not 0.01uF. As long as the capacitor is rated at 15V or greater you'll be fine. A ceramic cap should cost you much less than 0.50 . I do strongly agree with the auminum box statement. You want a good common ground (shield) for all parts of the circuit. Enclosing my switchbox design in a metal box would bring it closer to perfection... but it's costly, and that's a lot of drilling. For your needs, it might not be so bad. And remember before you plug everything in: Make _SURE_ that DC power does not go to your TV. I don't know what 12-15VDC will do to your antenna, but I'm betting it'll be a 'bad thing'. Good luck! Hex. [ _still_ needs to write a test procedure and mail everything out to Susuatari... Like I have free time ] Thanks for the advice, maybe I'll try upgrading my switchbox now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites