Modded Coleco Colecovision with Accessories

[doubledown]

Up for auction is a completely refurbished and modified Coleco ColecoVision. Included in the auction are the ColecoVision game console, 2 controllers, Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong JR., and Zaxxon, a power supply, and a gold-plated A/V cable. Everything is 100% guaranteed working, including console, controllers, games, and modifications.

 

Modifications:

 

1: Gold-plated, color-coded, RCA audio/video output jacks

 

This modification allows you to directly connect the game system to modern televisions or home theater systems. No longer are you required to use a TV/game switch, or forced to deal with blinking white sprites or audio “humming” while playing the game. This allows for the clearest picture and sounds ever available with a ColecoVision.

 

2: New BIOS chip installed

 

The original BIOS setup forced you to sit through 10 or 12 seconds of Coleco’s opening title screen when a Coleco-published game was inserted into the cartridge slot and the unit powered up. After the time delay you could then select the number of players and the difficulty. With the new BIOS chip, after the console is powered up, the instant you press one of the controller buttons the agonizingly long title screen is skipped and you continue on to the game.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=8106777500

[Mindfield]

Nice mod job! I still use the RCA-to-F adapter for all my RF systems so I don't really need one, but it's rather cool all the same. :-) The new BIOS would be nice though. I hate that pause on Coleco releases. (In fact I was just playing destructor and was loathe to hit reset when I started sucking at the game to avoid that bloody wait)

[MegaManFan]

Watch out McGrail, I'll be bidding against you on this.

[Susuwatari]

If that auction sells well, I have 2 or 3 working CV systems I could mod for AV and BIOS. AV mod is somewhat harder because you'd need to wire up more parts than an EPROM swap.

[holygrailvideogames.com]

If that auction sells well, I have 2 or 3 working CV systems I could mod for AV and BIOS.     AV mod is somewhat harder because you'd need to wire up more parts than an EPROM swap.

 

I think that there is a demand for these. I would have used the buy it now if it was lower. I would like to get one.

[Susuwatari]

I think I'll go ahead and round up every CV systems I have, check them, and mod them. 2764's are easy to find and cheap. I think I have a dozen that I ripped out of retired 286's.

[tantone56]

I always say Im going to mod my shit but in the end I never do so I think I might have to bid on that coleco

[+RangerG]

Wow - I can tell a bidding war is on the horizon. I really like the Colecovision, but I can't stand the typical bad video (it seems like a high percentage of Colecovisions have not held up as well as other classic machines in this area) and that no intro. scene is icing on the cake. The other thing is that the Colecovision is in nice shape. Sometimes when you see modded systems on Ebay you can look on the system and tell where the screwdriver was jammed in to pry open the system, etc.

 

nice auction link . . .

RG

[+RangerG]

What was the BIN?

[holygrailvideogames.com]

What was the BIN?

 

It was over $100. I think it was about $120.

[Mindfield]

Wow - I can tell a bidding war is on the horizon. I really like the Colecovision, but I can't stand the typical bad video (it seems like a high percentage of Colecovisions have not held up as well as other classic machines in this area) and that no intro. scene is icing on the cake. The other thing is that the Colecovision is in nice shape. Sometimes when you see modded systems on Ebay you can look on the system and tell where the screwdriver was jammed in to pry open the system, etc.  

 

nice auction link . . .

RG

 

Colecovision had notoriously crappy RF shielding. The ADAM made this worse because it produced even more interference. It's a LOT better with an RCA-to-F adapter, but there's still some interferencce. That RF mod probably produce a gorgeous picture.

[doubledown]

Yeah, the A/V mod does make the picture beautiful, and the sound is very clear with no humming. Obiviously the camera shot of the screen doesn't do it justice. Unlike the original NES, the ColecoVision's steel PCB upper and lower shielding are absolutely necessary for a half-way decent picture. After I cleaned and conditioned the cartridge slot and on/off switch the picture was definately improved, but I would still get the occasional blinking sprites. Since I installed the A/V circuit it is ten times better, and I haven't had one blinking or misplaced sprite yet.

 

Brought to you by DoubleDowonOn11, keeper of "The Holy ColecoVision"

[hhwolfman]

Watch out McGrail, I'll be bidding against you on this.

 

Who watches the Watchman

 

[doubledown]

bumpedy bump bump

[doubledown]

less than 1 1/2 days left

[tyranthraxus]

$221

 

DD You sure must be glad some cheapskate killed the BIN.

[+RangerG]

Wow is right. I dropped out early. The BIN would have been the way to go.

Congrats. DD!

[Albert]

If that auction sells well, I have 2 or 3 working CV systems I could mod for AV and BIOS.     AV mod is somewhat harder because you'd need to wire up more parts than an EPROM swap.

 

I can use several ColecoVision systems with composite video output, how much will you charge me to modify systems I send you? The ColecoVision has some of the dirtiest RF output I've seen of any system, even when using the Coaxial to RCA adapters, and I have been bringing several CV systems to shows to use with televisions and Commodore 1702 monitors. Anything to improve on the picture quality is a big plus in my book, and while I was at the Midwest Gaming Classic I decided it was time to get some properly modded CV systems (I now have fix 2600 systems and three 5200 systems with s-video / composite / audio mods).

 

..Al

[Susuwatari]

The parts are about $15 per CV system and that's the cheapest I can get from the Radio Suck (their caps are like $3 each!) I'll probably have to hit online electronics supplier and order the caps and transistors and I also need to pile up on 32K EPROM, I only have 4 or 5 left.

 

I can probably do AV mod board for $25 each CV system (including parts) plus shipping. You just need to solder in a few wires to hook up the AV board, drill 2 holes, and mount the AV jack.

 

If you'd rather not do any solder work, just send me the bare board (to save on shipping) and I can build and install AV for $30. Optionally, I can also desolder and remove the origial ROM chip and install a socket. Socket are free, I goofed on a order last year and ended up with 500 new sockets. I have yet to use up the first tube of 30.

 

Right now I have more than emough time to convert my already AV modded CV with the new BIOS and to hack the 2 spares I have laying around. Those $200+ each alone would make me take a week of unpaid leave, modify and sell the 3 I have, and use the (around) $600 to buy any working and unmodded CV off eBay cheap, modify them, resell them at a big markup, etc. Realistically, that probably won't happen as there's a limit to how much the market can bear and not everyone's willing to spend $200+ for a 20 year old system.

 

PS I'm planning to go to Ann Arbor for the SE Mi Arcade Meet (this Saturday the 29th) so if you're going there, just bring the CV along and skip the shipping altogether.

[holygrailvideogames.com]

I would like one, but not for $200. Flood the market with these and help to bring down the price.

[tiggerthehun]

I'm more than happy with my Povlok1 Atari mod - certainly has breathed new life into my 2600 carts. Would love to do the same for my Colecovision.

Is that modding offer for us "common folk" (I.E. not Al ) as well?

Would love to see what it'd do for my CV carts. I imagine it's not too difficult to pop the CV board out of its casing? Never tried it before.

[Susuwatari]

I'm more than happy with my Povlok1 Atari mod - certainly has breathed new life into my 2600 carts. Would love to do the same for my Colecovision.

 

Atari 2600 is slightly harder because there's more wires to solder in place (3 luma plus chroma) while CV has everything already in place for video signal. I don't think S-Video can be done though.

 

Is that modding offer for us "common folk" (I.E. not Al   ) as well?

 

I could do the service for you but if everyone piles up their CV on me, the last one may not fet his/hers modded for a few weeks to a couple months!

 

Would love to see what it'd do for my CV carts. I imagine it's not too difficult to pop the CV board out of its casing? Never tried it before.

 

BWAHAHAHAHA!!! Taking apart a CV is a real PITA!

 

Unplug and remove the controllers, power supply, and RF cable.

Step 1: get hair dryer or heat gun

Step 2: using the hot air, try to remove the foil plate from the front of the CV system. Put them someplace where dust won't ruin the glue.

Step 3: remove 3 screws to remove the front piece. Do note how it's supposed to get back together (including the expansion port cover)

Step 4: remove 8 screws from the bottom of the system and take tha top cover off.

Step 5: remove and set aside the reset button and power switch knob.

Step 6: remove visible screws hoding the RF shield down. In all the CV I took apart, the RF shield was also welded in one spot to the left of the expansion port but if you bend the RF shield a few times, the weld will break off.

Step 7: remove the remaining screws. The board should come off easily now. Don't forget to remove the power cable from the back part of the case.

 

I can't think of any non CD system that are as complicated to take apart as the CV system. (for DC system rev 4 PS2 is the worst followed by XBox, GC, and other PS2)

[Mindfield]

Try taking apart a TI-99/4A...

 

1. Remove seven screws with a long, thin Philips-head screwdriver, including the four recessed in the front.

2. Carefully pry open the front of the unit and pull out the power lever that grips the power switch. This lever has a lip on the top and bottom that slide into corresponding channels on the top and bottom halves of the unit's shell.

3. Remove the bottom of the shell and set aside.

4. Remove the two screws fastening the power supply to the board.

5. Remove the power supply's molex from the board by pinching the self-locking latch and place the power supply unit aside.

6. Remove the six screws holding the mainboard to the top of the case. Three of these are fastened in place with nuts on the other side of the board and you may need to hold on to the nuts to prevent them from spinning while you remove the screws. Do not lose the nuts or their lock washers.

7. Remove the keyboard connector from the underside of the board.

8. Remove the motherboard in its RF shielding and flip it over.

8. Gently remove the two small screws holding the heat sink in place.

9. Remove the three screws that hold the RF shielding together. these are also fastened with nuts and lock washers, so mind you don't lose them.

10. Remove the two metal clamps from the back and front of the shielding. (These slide off) Make a note of which one goes where, as they are sized differently.

11. Remove the shielding, making a note of each half's orientation as they will need to go back the same way they were removed.

 

You can now access the motherboard. But just try that in reverse. :-)

[tiggerthehun]

BWAHAHAHAHA!!!  Taking apart a CV is a real PITA!  

 

Unplug and remove the controllers, power supply, and RF cable.

Step 1: get hair dryer or heat gun

Step 2: using the hot air, try to remove the foil plate from the front of the CV system.  Put them someplace where dust won't ruin the glue.

Step 3: remove 3 screws to remove the front piece.  Do note how it's supposed to get back together (including the expansion port cover)

Step 4: remove 8 screws from the bottom of the system and take tha top cover off.

Step 5: remove and set aside the reset button and power switch knob.

Step 6: remove visible screws hoding the RF shield down.  In all the CV I took apart, the RF shield was also welded in one spot to the left of the expansion port but if you bend the RF shield a few times, the weld will break off.

Step 7: remove the remaining screws.  The board should come off easily now.  Don't forget to remove the power cable from the back part of the case.

 

I can't think of any non CD system that are as complicated to take apart as the CV system. (for DC system rev 4 PS2 is the worst followed by XBox, GC, and other PS2)

 

 

After careful perusal of the above instructions, I have chosen instead to toss my CV out a 3rd story window. If that doesn't separate the board, I shall flag down the hooligan who lives next door and ask him to kindly run over my CV with his large-tired truck.