My VecVox case

[dgo]

I sacrificed a Berzerk for this as I didn't have a repro one. It's a little rough around the edges, but I'm quite content for a first try.

 

It's a case build for Richard Hutchinson's excellent Speakjet based speech synthesizer (which is available for the Atari 2600 as well) info @ http://www.vectrex.biz/

 

What do you think?

[Stingray]

Looks like a pro job to me. Well done.

 

-S

[Rob Mitchell]

Looks nice .. but repro cart cases are available for only $4.

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

[dgo]

Looks nice .. but repro cart cases are available for only $4.

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

 

Thanks,

 

Yes,

 

I know... but I didn't have one (and 5 loose berzerks ) ... Also the original (well, most of them) cases 'click' and hold together without a screw which was more convenient for this purpose. I couldn't use the screw because the pcb was in the way...

[Rob Mitchell]

How did you mount the pcb in place? And how did you mount the pushbutton and the LED? Is the PCB just exposed at the opening of the cart?

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

[dgo]

How did you mount the pcb in place?  And how did you mount the pushbutton and the LED?  Is the PCB just exposed at the opening of the cart?

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

 

 

This calls for a do-it-yourself guide

 

First I removed all the old pcb mounting posts.

 

The pcb is mounted using Pritt Poster Buddies (excellent stuff, it's a kind of removable gum) and rests on a layer of isolation tape (the same which I used in the upper part of the case, which clams the pcb down). No need (nor space) for permanent mounting! At the backside there's two little pieces of plastic between the case and the pcb which holds it firmly in place horizontally.

 

I cut out two openings for the jack and Serial interface which are covered up by the litte faceplate (just a badly cut out print on thick paper for now)

 

The button comes from an Sega megadrive gamepad. I carefully superglued the rubber pushpad on the original microswitch. The pushbutton has two little pins on the side which keeps it from falling out. It just rests on the rubber pushpad and sticks through the drilled hole.

 

The light from the original blue led is visible through the little hole I drilled (covered with some transparant plastic) which gives it a nice glow. (plus it looks a lot nicer than just a bare drilled hole)

 

The case itself nicely clicks together like I said. When you use a repro case, you'll have to find a different way to keep the case parts together.

(If you still want to be able to adjust the volume, glue's not an option here)

 

Finally, when it's hooked up to an external amplifier, there's really no need to be able to adjust the volume, once it is set at the correct level.

[Rob Mitchell]

Ok .. I'm gonna make one! Would you make a label for me too?

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

[dgo]

Ok .. I'm gonna make one!  Would you make a label for me too?

 

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

 

Allright! I've send the label to your solderguy account.

 

Good Luck and please let me know how it goes!