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That80sGuy

Greetings from the newly addicted!!! My 2600 just arrived..

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Ok I'm a loooong time Atari 2600 kid from waaaay back. I got mine for Christmas 1980. Unfortunately it disappeared in the early 1990s when I let my sister borrow it. She had some questionable roomates and friends hanging around then so sadly its gone. Flash forward to Dec. 04 and I got one of the all-in-one Atari paddle games for Christmas. It was OK...well not really..actually it blew chunks, but it did rekindle my love for the 2600. So I get on E-bay and finally won an auction for a complete system with lots of extras that I always wanted but the parents would never buy when I was a kid.

 

Sooo that brings me here to you guys. People with the same afliction as me :P . My other addicting hobby is arcade video games...but lets not get off the main subject..the 2600 I aquired.

 

I think the power supply is shot because when I hook it up I get nothing on the TV. I had to get a new tv-game switch from Radioshack. I'm looking for my multimeter but the connecter has been slpiced back to gether and has shrink tubinh on the end. Any thoughts on next step? I'm used to troubleshooting arcade PCBS so I figure this is just similar and should be easier given the simplicity of the design.

 

On a side note I have opened the console up for a thorough cleaning there is an inspection paper taped to the metal housing dated Sep. 6 1980.

 

Well thats it for now. I look forward to hangin out here and getting this childhood toy running again!

 

-William

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I think you might've stumbled into the wrong site. We're all anti-Atari. We destroyed our units and now live against the grain. Do not worship the woodgrain. It will destroy your life like it did ours! :sad: :P

 

Welcome to Atariage. Before you start trouble shooting, one quick question: is the TV/game box you're using manual or automatic? If it's automatic, you need to return it and pick yourself up the adapter:

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...ct%5Fid=15-1268

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I got the right TV-game connector. :roll:

 

The reason I'm blaming the power supply is that its already been repaired some time in the past. In the same auction I also got the "newer" smaller version of the 2600. That power supply only feeds 6v instead of 9v but I tried it and got at least a blank black screen.

 

BTW the smaller console won't come up either but I'm not concerned with it. Right now I'm going to order a replacement power supply from Best Electronics. Then proceed from there. I know that sometimes in arcade repair you can clean the legs and reseat socketed chips and that will sometimes solve weird problems.

 

I'm not a noob to electronc repair just new to 2600 repair. :D

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I would agree that it's your power adapter. If you supply a 2600 with a supply of voltage that is too low, then you will get a black screen. I had a blown power supply that only tested at 6 volts with no load on it and I got a black screen with my system. Just pick up a replacement adapter. They are cheap enough. Or you can try fixing yours. If you are correct about the repaired joint in the wires not making contact, then it is trivial to fix.

 

Chris

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I'll keep you all updated. In the mean time I can turn my attention to the other 2600.

 

I get a power light but no black screen and if I squeeze the chasis I get short bits of video but nothing recognizable. Just zig zag lines or tv static. Guess I'll tear into it and see if someone spilled soda in it.

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Welcome back to the Age of Atari!! :) One warning though if you are like most of us it will get totally outta control, I did a quick count tonite after playing Chopper Command and I now have 52 more cartridges than I did in '83 when will it end? Who cares! only 1100 or so to go and I will have em all!

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Question: On the 2600 built in 1983 what does the POT at location R9 control? I've been cleaning it and noticed a little better signs of life now. What else on these smaller units needs to be measured and checked?

 

I mostly got a 2600 because of the original Combat. I loved bounceing shots off the walls and nailing people. :D

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Welcome, Guy. We're generally a nice sort, but also generally quite mad. You'll get used to it. :)

 

The PS is probably shot. It happens. Unless you're after a real Atari power supply though you needn't go so far as to mail order one. And Radio Shack or mom 'n pop electronics store universal AC adapter will do. It's a standard 3.5mm pin jack, tip positive polarity, 9 volts, and preferably with a capacity of at least 500mA.

 

If she still won't power up, you might be looking at a dead component -- I'd suspect the 7805 voltage regulator to start with.

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We're generally a nice sort

 

Speak for yourself and go F yourself. :x :roll:

 

Of course Mindfield knows I am joking. LOL

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We're generally a nice sort

 

Speak for yourself and go F yourself. :x :roll:

 

Of course Mindfield knows I am joking. LOL

 

Mock! Get out of his butt. You're giving him irritable bowel syndrome.

 

:P

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Welcome, Guy.  We're generally a nice sort, but also generally quite mad.  You'll get used to it.  :)

 

The PS is probably shot.  It happens.  Unless you're after a real Atari power supply though you needn't go so far as to mail order one.  And Radio Shack or mom 'n pop electronics store universal AC adapter will do.  It's a standard 3.5mm pin jack, tip positive polarity, 9 volts, and preferably with a capacity of at least 500mA.

 

If she still won't power up, you might be looking at a dead component -- I'd suspect the 7805 voltage regulator to start with.

 

I know I could get a PS from RadioShack...but I'm approaching it from restoration point of view.

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I got the right TV-game connector. :roll:  

 

I asked that question because someone comes in here with problems identical to yours about once a week and 75% of the time its because they are trying to use a NES switchbox on a VCS system, tried plugging the RF cable into one of the AV ports of their TV, or didn't have the TV and VCS set to the same station. About 99% of the time, they are never heard from again. Hopefully you'll be the 1% that sticks around. It's nice to see new screen names around here.

 

If you're aproaching your repair from a historical restoration perspective, different power supply styles went with different systems even though they all gave the same output.

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Well as long as there is an Atari logo on the PS, it'll be close enough ;)

 

I had to make a minimum order of 20 dollars worth so I'm also gonna replace the RF cable AND get another game-TV switch.

 

Can I get the switches that are mounted on the 1983 model 2600. The power switch is flaky. It feels loose. I've got the machine to almost work. I have a Kangaroo cart and sometimes when I switch it on I can see the start screen but then it goes all screwy. I have cleaned the cart and the game connections. Also I thing the female power connector on the board is loose. I've tried re-flowing the solder joints and that improved things just a bit ...but not enough. Thoughts? :?

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Well as long as there is an Atari logo on the PS, it'll be close enough ;)  

 

I had to make a minimum order of 20 dollars worth so I'm also gonna replace the RF cable AND get another game-TV switch.  

 

Can I get the switches that are mounted on the 1983 model 2600. The power switch is flaky. It feels loose.

 

Best Electronics carries them if they are the silvery toggle switches found on all but the Jr. models.

 

I've got the machine to almost work. I have a Kangaroo cart and sometimes when I switch it on I can see the start screen but then it goes all screwy. I have cleaned the cart and the game connections.  Also I thing the female power connector on the board is loose. I've tried re-flowing the solder joints and that improved things just a bit ...but not enough.   Thoughts? :?

 

Do you have any other games that you can use to test the machine out with? If it's doing it with all the games, it might be the actual cart slot is loose. If it's just the specific game and you want to save it, heat gun the label off, take it apart, and use an eraser and rubbing alcohol to clean the contacts. Be careful not to rub off the contacts themselves or the game won't make proper contact with the cartridge slot and never use a dremel or any other grinding tool. You can also try reseating the chips in the cartridge, although you can probably just get a new one for a few dollars from someone here if you don't want to go to all that trouble.

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This switch and power connector are for for the Jr. model. I haven't pulled out all the cart from the box and inventoried them yet. I don't know whats rare or valuable. I will post a list tonight for you guys. I don't have a heat gun but a good hair dryer set on high should do the trick.. although I'd rather not pull them apart some of the carts labels are fubared anyway. Those are the ones I'll try cleaning first. Does anyone here scan the lables for reproduction purposes? all you need is the right paper and a decent laser printer and bingo..new labels.

 

My digital camera can take 20sec of video if anyone is interested in viewing the problem. I can either zip the file or use WinRar and send to anyone with broadband or DSL.

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Try out a few other carts before going to all that trouble. More than likely, the problem is the cart and not the console.

 

Reproduction labels are a big no no in the collecting world (unless we're talking about common games which don't matter to collectors anyway). When getting into the VCS, start out collecting for playability rather than rarity. Almost everything available in the VCS' library can be purchased for $100 or less loose that carries a rarity of 9 or lower which is why it's become so appealing to so many people from all walks of life. Many titles can be found for 50 cents or less. If you go the collecting route, pursue complete games where possible.

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I can see your point from a collecting perspective. But what do you do if you have a perfectly good cart but the labeling is screwed up and torn? Purely from an asethics point of view I would reprint a label and stick it on. Then if I sell it, I'll just let they buyer know which ones are repro labels. I'm not looking to SELL repro labels, just use it as a way to spruce up my collection. I certainly would not sell a cart as "loose but mint" because I had put a repro label. IMHO

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I definitely am in agreement with you. In my private collection, if I have a cart with a bad label, I seek out one with a good label given how cheap most of them are. It can actually cost you more to make a repro label, but on the flip side a repro label looks much nicer displayed in a collection than a torn label.

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So does anyone have a part number for the two switchs on the left side of the Atari Jr. I don't think RadioShack would have them. Anyone have a good electronics parts source online?

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When you call up to place your order with Best Electronics, explain the problem to them and they will, in all likelihood have the part(s) you need to make the repair or would know if you can get those parts elsewhere if they don't have anything on hand.

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Do they have a toll free number? I haven't found one on their site.

What sucks is its a 20 dollar minium for credit cards and 50 for paypal. That sucks worse than the 2600 E.T game.

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I have a simple solution for your repro-label problem:

Print it in a way that is obviously not from the original.

For example:

I have a couple of N-64 games where the front sticker is gone. Way gone. My solution was to find a good picture of the sticker, size it up to about the size of where the sticker goes and print it on my black and white laser printer. This way there is no question about it being an original item, but merely a resonable reproduction to give the user the ability to (mostly) enjoy the cover art. Of course through complete deception you could always say otherwise. :roll:

 

I've considered doing this for some of my front labels that are MIA. It's better than nothing and clear it's not an original part.

 

Also, it's been hinted at here, but have you cleaned your cartridge contacts thoroughly? Q-tips and alchohol are the best route there.

Hex.

[ Remember, when someone asks 'Is it plugged in?' it means somebody didn't do that. ]

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Yes I've been cleaning the carts. I'm telling you guys the power switch and connector on this Jr. are loose. The power switch FEELS worn.

 

I have a feeling that the older VCS will come right up as soon as it gets the required 9v.

 

If I don't get Jr. running ..it may not be worth e-baying I'm not going to pawn it off on someone..probably give it a decent burial.

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