Star Wars ESB monitor problem...

[tillenterprises]

Hello helpful coin-op folks! I recently found one of my most-sought after games- a cockpit Star Wars Empire Strikes back. I got a good deal on it, since the monitor has a problem, other than that, it's in excellent shape, and works 100%. I'm guessing it's a cap kit solution, but I'd thought I'd check with you folks to make sure, since I don't know too much about fixing coinop monitors, and don't want to fry myself. It appears that the top half of the screen is fine, but the bottom half of the screen is blank, and there's a bright horizontal line across the middle of the screen, like all the graphics from the bottom half of the screen were "smushed" up to the middle of the screen. I e-mailed bobroberts.com and arcadeshop.com, and they said that I would need to know the manufacturer and model number of the X-Y monitor to figure out the parts or kit that I need. Okay here are my questions- is this a cap kit problem? If so, is there a way to find out the manufacturer without having to pull out the entire monitor out of the cabinet, which looks like a pain. Do any of you know what monitor Atari put in these things? Is a cap kit easily to do myself, with limited electronics fixing knowledge, but some soldering skills, or do I need to pay big bucks to a specialist to avoid electrocuting myself? BTW, anybody in the Milwaukee area that wants to stop by and see it is more than welcome! Thanks for your help!

Edited May 14, 2005 by tillenterprises

[sebastius]

Start off with recapping the monitor, that will do a whole lot for the screen. Also check all solder joints etc. After that you'll be wanting to check deflection transistors. And beyond that (but I don't think it'll come to that) it's a board problem.

 

So start your checking top down. Recap, reflow. Replace Transistors. Repair Board. Call out for pizza.

[Bryan]

You've lost one of your deflection outputs. The monitor is driven by 2 "class-B" amplifiers. That means you've got a separate transistor for positive and negative deflection in each direction. Only half of your Y amplifier is working. Find the 4 large output transistors on the monitor and start with them.

 

-Bry

[tillenterprises]

Start off with recapping the monitor, that will do a whole lot for the screen. Also check all solder joints etc. After that you'll be wanting to check deflection transistors. And beyond that (but I don't think it'll come to that) it's a board problem.

 

So start your checking top down. Recap, reflow. Replace Transistors. Repair Board. Call out for pizza.

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Thanks- I think I might be able to handle most of this , but how do I do that pizza thing?

[tillenterprises]

You've lost one of your deflection outputs. The monitor is driven by 2 "class-B" amplifiers. That means you've got a separate transistor for positive and negative deflection in each direction. Only half of your Y amplifier is working. Find the 4 large output transistors on the monitor and start with them.

 

    -Bry

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Thanks so much!!! Do you know which part or parts I need to order and where to order it from, and is this something I can replace or repair on my own (i.e. is it a simple procedure, with little chance of destroying something or myself), or do I need a professional? (no wisecracks, please)

[Bryan]

Thanks so much!!!  Do you know which part or parts I need to order and where to order it from, and is this something I can replace or repair on my own (i.e. is it a simple procedure, with little chance of destroying something or myself), or  do I need a professional? (no wisecracks, please)

855807[/snapback]

 

/digging through arcade manuals...

 

Does it have the original Amplifone monitor or a Wells Gardner monitor? The Amplifone monitor is a picture tube with a circuit board attached to the wall. The Wells monitor is all in a metal chassis with the output transistors mounted on the bottom and side.

 

For now I'm going to assume it has a Wells monitor, since very few of the Amplifone monitors survived (they had serious flyback transformer problems). The transisitors are attached in pairs to a wiring harness that plugs into the board. Check all the connections to make sure none of them have broken. Also, check under the board to make sure none of the solder has cracked around the connection pins. Sometimes pushing on the board with a pencil while the game is on can reveal bad contacts and solder joints. Anyway, if all seems well you'll want to check the 4 output transistors (there are actually 6 in total, as 2 are used in the power supply). They're type 2N3792 and 2N3716.

 

For the bottom half of the screen, I believe you're looking for the 2N3792 on the side of the monitor. An NTE285 is a commonly available replacement (the 2N3716 is an NTE284). You'll need to have some new heatsink compound if you take the transistors off and don't lose the little mica insulator under the transistor!!!

 

If you have an Amplifone monitor, the transistors are mounted on a big heatsink, and I believe they are the same type.

 

Check out this FAQ for more help:

 

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tech/6100_faq.pdf

 

-Bry

[Bryan]

BTW... I'll look and see if I have any vector monitor parts left around here.

 

-Bry

[Stingray]

Good to know we have an XY expert in the house. I'm desparately in search of a Tempest to add to my collection.

 

-S

[tillenterprises]

Thanks, guys for all your help! Based on your description, I do believe it is a WG monitor. I appreciate you checking if you might have these extra parts, but if you can't find the parts I need, do you know where I would order them from?

[Cassidy Nolen]

Go outta town for a few days, and somebody finds a grail......

 

Very nice find indeed. Very few produced (most were SW conversions and nobody stickered the sides).

 

Rather than replacing just the bad parts, I would suggest rebuilding the thing with a "shotgun" approach. www.therealbobroberts.com sells the rebuild kits for those, and the transistors he sends are much more reliable than the old ones you currently have. Deflection issues are common on those, and if you fix one you may be doing the other two quadrants later this year (or [email protected]). If you cant tell the monitor, send Bob a picture of the back. Easy enough.

 

 

The kit is easy to do; if you can do one part you can do them all. Takes me about 2 hours total to do one properly, and that includes time for that pizza you ordered

 

BTW, post some pics of the cab if you can....

 

Cassidy

[tillenterprises]

Well, I found a guy locally who said it would be between $40-$80 for him to fix the monitor and do a complete cap kit for me. I think I'll just have him fix this, as I don't want to damage the monitor or myself. Here's a quick picture of the cab- I have a box of extra Battlezone parts on the seat, but it's in really great shape- near mint. The local guy who I got it from wanted $1850 for it on eBay, but I called him and found out he would be open to a trade for a record jukebox. I just happened to have a friend who had a mid-80's record juke that he wanted to get rid of cheap for a few hundred. So I bought it and traded for the Star Wars! BTW, anybody else who has advice for me to get this fixed cheaper, please let me know.

[Cassidy Nolen]

I think the two rebuild and upgrade kits together total around 40 bucks....I think 80 for it working would be a steal. I would not do that work for someone that cheap (maybe a nearby AA pal ). Most tech rates are 50-80 an hour, and thats at least an hour job.

 

Think about what a great deal you got on the machine, and it should make it easier to pay the repair cost!!! Looks great, btw. I believe that is a converted SW cab with an ESB logo sticker on it. The ESB dedicated cabs/conversions had a full side sticker set. You might want to consider the dual kit to play both games. I got mine for Christmas two years ago, and its my favorite game in the collection (actually guess its two!).

 

Cassidy

[tillenterprises]

I think the two rebuild and upgrade kits together total around 40 bucks....I think 80 for it working would be a steal.  I would not do that work for someone that cheap (maybe a nearby AA pal ).  Most tech rates are 50-80 an hour, and thats at least an hour job.

 

Think about what a great deal you got on the machine, and it should make it easier to pay the repair cost!!!  Looks great, btw.  I believe that is a converted SW cab with an ESB logo sticker on it.  The ESB dedicated cabs/conversions had a full side sticker set.  You might want to consider the dual kit to play both games.  I got mine for Christmas two years ago, and its my favorite game in the collection (actually guess its two!).

 

Cassidy

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It is indeed a converted Star Wars cabinet, and I was thinking of removing the ESB stickers and marquee and reconverting it back to Star Wars. I do want to buy the dual kit, but I've e-mailed Clayton Cowgill several times with no response. Where did you get your kit from?

[Cassidy Nolen]

Its from Clay. Maybe try another email account (you might be getting filtered by his account or something). Also might try reaching him on RGVAC group.

 

Easy install, and great fun. I put the switch in the coindoor by the volume knob. You can even hot swap between games, although he does not endorse it.

 

Cassidy

[tillenterprises]

Its from Clay.  Maybe try another email account (you might be getting filtered by his account or something).  Also might try reaching him on RGVAC group.

 

Easy install, and great fun.  I put the switch in the coindoor by the volume knob.  You can even hot swap between games, although he does not endorse it.

 

Cassidy

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Well, I tried once again to e-mail him (this is about the 5th attempt in the last 2 months) and let him know that I'd like to order one, and he finally responded, only to let me know that he's sold out! Does anybody know where else I can get one of the multikits?