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GrizzLee

A/V Mod for Bally Astrocade

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There is a doc here for conversion to RGB:

http://www.ballyalley.com/documentation/misc_hardware_docs/full_size/rgb_convert.pdf

 

Step one I will redraw that schematic.

Also I am going to see if I can get component video out of this using a THS7314 tonight.

Uh can't edit my old post here is the schematic; I think I have all the important bits:

http://i.imgur.com/2jW9Ylm.png

MOAR INFO: http://www.bucek.name/pdf/tba530.pdf

 

Any clue what kind of inductor that is ? 270N something I can't read alot of this stuff clearly.

Someone should probably check for accuracy.

Edited by the_crayon_king

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Here is what I am looking at: http://i.imgur.com/WLxZ12g.gif

 

Just a note for anyone looking into this (and for myself in the future). Video out should 100% be possible with a THS73XX.

I have THS7360 kits that would be good for putting out YPBBR, S-Video, or composite on this console.

 

You could use a 7805 to get +5 from that +10 and everything else can be done with the THS73XX.

 

The B-Y and R-Y look like they would need DC restore caps at the end of the THS73XX maybe pull downs on the input as well.

Y looks like its good to go but you would probably need to adjust a pull down resistor on the input for correct brightness. Or try straight in to the TV with 75 ohms for S-Video

I have no clue what the other Chroma is but it would probably also need DC restore at the output of the THS73XX.

 

I can draw up a schematic of what I would do if anyone is interested in trying to do one of the video outputs.

splitting the Luma/Sync so it can be put out to both B-y,R-y,Y and S-Video (Y|C) would be a pretty high priority. Composite too maybe.

 

 

Any measurements people have on the output values of those pins would also help greatly.

Gain of TBA530 (if I am reading this right is 40db (100x) vs 6db (4x)of the THS73XX

 

Ill design a board using the data out there on RGB using the TBA530 so people can print this and try it out if so inclined.

Edited by the_crayon_king
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IF you can solder, I make a comp video / pseudo stereo (both sides actually have identical outputs) board that requires soldering. The cabling is larger than the standard RF cord, so it would either be a tight fit or you might need to file the Arcade a little. The other 2 ways id can be installed is either a 3 RCA jack unit ( yellow,red,white) made for mounting to the unit, but that would require drilling 5 holes, 3 for the jacks and 2 for mounting, OR I can send it with a 35mm jack and special cable that goes from the 35mm to the 3 RCA cable.

 

The PCB, fully assembled and tested with the 3 RCA in one is $50.00. comes with mounting instructions, wiring to go to the unit and jack.

The 35mm jack version is $75.00 because it has the extra cable.

A 6 foot 3 wire RCA AV cable (YRW connectors both sides) can be used by either... $15.00

Shipping, Processing and handling fee of $15.00 required if shipped in US.

 

Requires that the modulator box has to be placed back on it's jack to get a color output. Without it, you will get a B/W output.

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IF you can solder, I make a comp video / pseudo stereo (both sides actually have identical outputs) board that requires soldering. The cabling is larger than the standard RF cord, so it would either be a tight fit or you might need to file the Arcade a little. The other 2 ways id can be installed is either a 3 RCA jack unit ( yellow,red,white) made for mounting to the unit, but that would require drilling 5 holes, 3 for the jacks and 2 for mounting, OR I can send it with a 35mm jack and special cable that goes from the 35mm to the 3 RCA cable.

 

The PCB, fully assembled and tested with the 3 RCA in one is $50.00. comes with mounting instructions, wiring to go to the unit and jack.

The 35mm jack version is $75.00 because it has the extra cable.

A 6 foot 3 wire RCA AV cable (YRW connectors both sides) can be used by either... $15.00

Shipping, Processing and handling fee of $15.00 required if shipped in US.

 

Requires that the modulator box has to be placed back on it's jack to get a color output. Without it, you will get a B/W output.

 

You should at least try using the FMS6400 that way you could get S-Video and composite.

I made this open source may help if you ever wanna go that route: https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/MD_40SV-1de03b6b5f054f4e87a9acbcaf2880c9

Edited by the_crayon_king

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I'm still interested in a good RGB mod kit or schematic that is proven to work well.

 

Anyone?

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I'm still interested in a good RGB mod kit or schematic that is proven to work well.

 

Anyone?

 

I dont own a bally or Id try something. Or maybe I do own one ? Everything is in storage regardless.

I could build a board and put in all the parts but I'd have no way to test.

 

If someone has oscope measurements of the on board R-y B-y Y (or a datasheet); that would be a good place to start.

You could also probably just use those signals for video assuming your TV will accept it.

 

---------------------------------------

I redrew this:

bXwzGIc.png

(unknown source [maybe console5?)

Note about this scan It isn't the highest quality... but the original source isn't available.

 

Ken Lill notes on Feb. 26, 2010 It could be used to give you RGB out of an arcade, but you have to wire into the 3 different supplies and the ground. If you DID use this, you shouldn't need the modulator.

 

Brett Bilbrey notes on Feb. 26, 2010 That is the schematic for the Midway RGB board. It was a simple board that converted R-Y, B-Y, Video (where in this case, Video is Luma) to the RGB format. I don't know if you can get your hands on one of the boards anymore, but any R-Y, B-Y, Y to RGB converter should work. The nice part of that would be getting rid of the chroma crawl on the NTSC video and you could use the RGB input on newer TV sets.

 

Specifically, the connector that the internal RF modulator (sealed box) mounts to here on the schematic

-----------------------------------------------

So I think we just need a few op amps/resistors/caps and a lm1881

Edited by the_crayon_king

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