Authorized Atari Repair Tec?

[2600lover]

Hello again. Where would I find a authorized repair tec to do a check over of my system? Is there a website you go to and then mail them in? Whats the story?

[A.J. Franzman]

First, there is no longer any factory authorized support for any of the "classic" Atari products since the company went defunct and has changed ownership several times - the Atari of today is not really related to the Atari of old.

 

Second, why do you want a "check over" of your system? Is there a specific problem you're having, or are you just paranoid? There is no real regular maintenance that should need to be done other than gently cleaning the outside of the case (and occasionally the cartridge port contacts) but you can do that yourself. However, I'm sure someone will be more than happy to take your money and slather some Armor-All on that thing to make it look all shiny if that's what you really want.

 

BTW, since you're new here I feel I should tell you, THAT WAS A JOKE. There is a running gag here at AtariAge about Armor-All. DO NOT put Armor-All on your console, cartridges or anything else you value!

 

 

OTOH, if you really are having a problem with your console, there are several AA members and others who do repairs - myself included. If you'll describe the problem in detail, we can advise you (or someone you know with electronic testing and soldering experience) how to proceed, and if needed give a rough estimate of what it would cost to send the console out to be fixed.

Edited July 20, 2006 by A.J. Franzman

[Lost Monkey]

...duh.... warranty...

 

[2600lover]

Well I do think it would be wise to open it up and clean it out seeing its been sitting in a basement for the past 20 some odd years. So can anyone advise me on how to do this? Obvisoly remove the screws on the bottom, but is there anything I should watch out for, like the flying spring with the controlers?

[keilbaca]

Well I do think it would be wise to open it up and clean it out seeing its been sitting in a basement for the past 20 some odd years. So can anyone advise me on how to do this? Obvisoly remove the screws on the bottom, but is there anything I should watch out for, like the flying spring with the controlers?

 

Nope, it comes right off, no strings attached, nice and easy.

[A.J. Franzman]

Well I do think it would be wise to open it up and clean it out seeing its been sitting in a basement for the past 20 some odd years. So can anyone advise me on how to do this? Obvisoly remove the screws on the bottom, but is there anything I should watch out for, like the flying spring with the controlers?

Nope, it comes right off, no strings attached, nice and easy.

Ah, better be careful there keilbaca - 2600lover didn't say which console he has. Although there are no parts which will fly out and get lost, they all can be tricky in one way or another.

 

The 6-switch consoles ("light" or "heavy" versions with 6 silver-colored switch handles in the front dashboard panel) have two screws in the bottom center (originally each with a washer) that do not need to be removed if you only want to open the case.

 

The 6-switch and 4-switch consoles can be difficult to get open and closed due to interference between the switch handles, casing, and circuit board alignment. Make sure all switches are in the "up" position before attempting to open or reassemble it. Disassembly of 4-switchers may be easiest with the console still inverted after removing the screws - gravity helps. But once the case halves are separated by an inch or so, hold them in this position in both hands and flip them back over, or the RF cable will hinder further progress.

 

I find reassembly of these consoles most easily done upright, beginning (with 4-switchers) by making sure the circuit board is in the correct position behind the two pegs in the case bottom, then matching up the front edges of the case halves. Next, as the case halves are brought together, the control ports and difficulty switches in 4-switchers must be slightly forced into alignment with their holes by a combination of fingers going in between the case halves at the back, and gently gripping and pulling on one of the switch handles once they are in reach from the front side of the dashboard. It's a bit easier with 6-switchers since the control ports go through the case bottom instead of the top, and the difficulty switches are in front -- only the switch handles and cartridge port need to be lined up. If a 6-switch case won't close, it's probably because the switch board was removed, and re-installed incorrectly.

 

With "Junior" consoles, there is a printed plastic ribbon cable between the circuit board and case top that's just barely long enough to allow the top to be laid down beside the bottom once the case is open. If you want more freedom to work, this cable can be pulled from its socket on the motherboard. It's fairly durable but I wouldn't recommend that anyone go yanking the case halves apart since the cable could be damaged by careless handling. There are a couple of plastic clips that hold the circuit board, molded into the case bottom, which need to be attached properly when reassembling. Also, the positions of the switch slides in the case top and on the circuit board must be matched up (I prefer the "down" positions) before closing the case. If it was removed, carefully plug the ribbon cable back into place, as the last step just before re-closing the case.

Edited July 25, 2006 by A.J. Franzman

[2600lover]

Yeah its a 4 switch vader. Damn you guys sure know what your talking about!!