T-molding removal tips

[Broonale]

Are there any tricks to removing old-dry t-molding that is so hard it cracks?

 

If I just try to pull it out it leaves the wedge portion in the wood.

[Curt Vendel]

It cracks??!? Must've been kept in a VERY dry location, I've worked on everything back to an original 72' Pong, never seen brittle/dry t-molding before.

 

Use a metal dry wall spackler, they have a 4" one which I've found worked well, slide it into the side of the t-molding and then turn it slowly to lift out the molding in sections, wiggle it up a little (maybe an 1/8th to 1/4 inch then lift another section, get a good 6-12" lifted, then go back and lift it up a little more - this way, if it does crack and break, you've gotten enough of it up to be able to go back and more easily manage it and get it out.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Curt

 

Are there any tricks to removing old-dry t-molding that is so hard it cracks?

 

If I just try to pull it out it leaves the wedge portion in the wood.

[Broonale]

Yep, it's dry indeed!

 

I got it in Casa Grande AZ.

It's the only Star Fighter I've ever seen. It's a clone of Uniwar-S.

It had no back or marquee light(easy enough to fix)

I even had to kill a big juicy black widow before loading it up!

 

I'll try it and see how it goes.

[colorfixer]

I use a Dremel tool with a silver cutting disc. Slice the stuff through the middle so that you cut the center of the slot with the disc. It will melt if you go too fast, so go slow and with the center "tab" gone, it will come really easy without nuking the cabinet on the way out. I've run into brittle stuff on Pacman where it chips apart, and this worked like a charm, without leaving plastic in the slot.