Starscream #1 Posted November 10, 2006 (edited) Ok edited again. I am aggrivated. Someone contacted me to look at repairing a Primal Rage cabinet. It's dedicated but has been worked on before. the original power supply was fan cooled in the bottom of the cabinet. At some point it was replaced with a Peter Chou and moved to the top of the cab by the main board. One day it stopped working. They were told it was the power supply. So they ordered one from Happ. They installed it and nothing. This is when they contacted me. First off I hate messing with anything that isn't at my house. I never have every tool I need with me or the time to think things through. Anyways, I tried both power supplies and nothing at all, no power. So I removed the switch module. It is a Corcom 6EDL1S. I noticed the inner fuse was blown so I replaced it and tested everything again. It constantly blows the fuses. I have tried everything I can think of. I found 1 place that has the switch in stock, for around $53. 2 questions...... 1) What are the chances of the switch module being bad? I do know it has an EMI filter and I guess it could be shot. 2) Most important question. Can the whole module be bypassed? If so, could I just wire the plug itself to the PSU and eliminate any on/off switch? Or do I need the filtering? Edited November 12, 2006 by Starscream Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Starscream #2 Posted November 12, 2006 (edited) Bump. Pics added. This is exactly how the switch was when I pulled it. I did not add the jumper wire (looks as though they are made like that). Edited November 12, 2006 by Starscream Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chadtower #3 Posted November 13, 2006 Which fuse is blowing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Starscream #4 Posted November 13, 2006 In the pic with me holding the switch module, there is a fuse right below the actual switch under a flip up panel. It blows instantly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arcadebasement #5 Posted November 13, 2006 Any chance of seeing inside this panel? - kind important. I'm seeing some watery-type orange in there too but it could be the pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cassidy Nolen #6 Posted November 13, 2006 I would disconnect everything (internal lighting, monitor, power supply feeds to the Chou unit) and fire it up. See if it blows, then add back each load until you pop it. That way you will know what is causing that. I had a T2 that blew fuses. Turned out to be the ballast in the header light was bad. I have seen monitors do that too. Even coin door lights could do that if the wires were stuck in the door.... I am sure 10 others will tell you 10 things. This is what I would try. Looks like that could be bypassed. The EMI certainly could be so you could eliminate it. Of course an ohmmeter would do that too. I think sometimes its better to try it out of circuit and see if the desired results are achieved. C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Starscream #7 Posted November 13, 2006 I would disconnect everything (internal lighting, monitor, power supply feeds to the Chou unit) and fire it up. See if it blows, then add back each load until you pop it. That way you will know what is causing that. I had a T2 that blew fuses. Turned out to be the ballast in the header light was bad. I have seen monitors do that too. Even coin door lights could do that if the wires were stuck in the door.... I am sure 10 others will tell you 10 things. This is what I would try. Looks like that could be bypassed. The EMI certainly could be so you could eliminate it. Of course an ohmmeter would do that too. I think sometimes its better to try it out of circuit and see if the desired results are achieved. C I already tried all of this. That's usually how I solve automotive problems so I figured use the same theory on this. Even with nothing connected at all, just the black and white and ground leads to the PSU from the plug, it pops. Will/can an EMI go bad? I found a Line Filter at Happs for around $10 so I figured I can just wire to that and split off to a switch for a cost of maybe $15 total. Or can the EMI just be completely eliminated? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chadtower #8 Posted November 14, 2006 Did you check the distro block? Maybe the fuse holder itself is shorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Starscream #9 Posted November 14, 2006 Yup. I have a strong feeling that the switch module is bad. As you can see, the line filter, fuse, and switch are all packaged together, which is not original to this cabinet (at least from any knowledge I have been able to gain), but was very cool. It's a switch for medical equipment, but maybe it was used in arcade cabs as well. Who knows. But I get no power after the switch and it just blows the fuses. I did talk to the owner and he said order a new module. So, I guess that's what I will do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chadtower #10 Posted November 17, 2006 Well, we can't see all that from the pics, but I think you're on the right track. I'd take the fuse and filter from another cab and wire them into this one to test first, though. The switch itself is just a convenience and you can put one in later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites