Finally got my Neo MVS inside - noob questions...

[elviticus]

So, I almost killed myself moving (with ONE other person) my 25" Neo Geo MVS into my basement.... there was a very scary moment when I almost couldn't hold it from flying down the stairs and flattening my friend! Never knew just how heavy it was until it was on wheels rolling down a steep staircase!!!

 

Anyway, got it safely inside and set up. Overall I'm pleased with it, but I'd like to make the monitor brighter and I have some questions. I've been fiddling with the knobs on the back of the monitor. 3 are labeled: red green and blue "gains". 3 are not, but seem to control the brighness of these colors. Then there is the focus and brightness up near the front of the monitor (looking in from the back of the machine).

 

So, in trying to brighten up the picture, I boosted the gains some (for all 3 colors) then I used the other set of knobs to try and get the colors to look right, and finally adjusted the focus and overall brightness.... You can probably tell I have no idea what I'm doing here!! Can anyone fill me in more about the functions of these controls? Any tips for setting them?

 

Lastly, it's a little frustrating that I can get one game to look great, then I switch to another, and the settings don't seem as good for that game. I seem to have the most problem getting a bright picture on Metal Slug 2 and KOF '98 - not sure why this would be (newer games maybe?).

 

Anyway, sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help!

[wade's arcades]

well I would say that you would probably do your self some good by giving your monitor a cap kit. next .. the control for briteness is just for that. I will make the picture briter but will not do anything to the color intensity. you my want to look up what kind of monitor( make and model) and look up the manual for it....and lastly just as a reminder.....monitor have some crazy f&*$ing voltage going through them so be very careful and stay as far away as possible from the tube.

 

w.a

Edited December 17, 2006 by wade's arcades

[Crazy Climber]

How dull is it? A dull monitor is not always bad, if it still looks decent I've heard it's sometimes best to leave it alone. This way you can avoid screenburn.

Just something I've heard. If it is so dull it's affecting you actually playing the game then a cap kit is probably best. Also just something I've heard though, I'm probably the last guy to ask for monitor advice

[Cassidy Nolen]

The color adjustments are called gains and cutoffs. You may want to download the manual for the monitor just to see how they interact with each other. I would say without seeing a pic most likely the screen is what is actually dim on it. The tubes do wear out in those. I have had quite a few Neo's over the years and the dim ones still play great for some games and not others (Puzzle Bobble needs a good screen so you can see the contrast between the color bubbles). Are you sure you have all 3 colors present? Reason I ask is the 7000's also get cold solder joints where the connector plugs in. Could be that in test mode you don't see Red Green or Blue, and then you can start there.

 

Cap kit might help it. Depends if there are other issues with the game (could you fit a piece of bologna between each raster line at the top? Can you see the edges of the image doing the hula? Having a hard time getting vertical hold to keep your image in place up by the scores?). If none of those image issues exist, AND you have all 3 colors in test mode, give it a good color adjustment and then tune with screen brightness.

 

Here's what I do for color:

Set all gains and cutoffs on the CRT board (the one on the neck of the monitor) to the center position.

Turn my brightness up (that is the SCREEN knob on the flyback transformer)

Figure out what color is the strongest and tune it away until I have a black screen again (get rid of faint halo/tint of first color)

Repeat for other two colors

Turn down brightness and check in game play

 

Works for me. I am sure others have another method.

 

Finally, if after all that is said and done, you have a classic case of a dim tube. Most TV shops can run a tube rejuvinator for you but it does shorten the life expectancy of the monitor. As it is right now you will keep it running forever just a little bit dim. If they burn the junk off the cathodes for you it might only last a year (could be a week, hard to say).

 

Sorry there is no easy answer. At least try the above and see what you get.

 

C

[wade's arcades]

just a thought but you might also want to check the ground on the monitor. I am working on a multi-cade for a guy and had the same dull problem. I added an extra ground to the monitor and it cleared it right up.

[Crazy Climber]

 

 

Having a hard time getting vertical hold to keep your image in place up by the scores?).

 

 

This is exactly the problem my Neo has, it's not too bad though so I never messed with it. My screen is also dull but it doesn't bother me. I wonder if we have the same problem.

[elviticus]

Wow, this site is great - thanks everybody for the replies. Cassidy, that really helped - I found a monitor manual (and a lot of other good info) on Neo-Geo.com (thanks Crazy Climber for the tip!) - then I followed your plan with setting the controls, and I'm glad to say I now have a very good picture. I actually used Puzzle Bobble to help me set the colors, worked great. Besides a little burn in (that I beleive is unrepairable?) it looks really good.

 

Now that this is worked out, I've been having a blast on the Neo! I had to replace one button (which I feel proud of in itself - I've never done that either!) but now it plays and looks great, and is a lot of fun.

 

One cosmetic question though.... Does anyone know what color exactly is used on the cabinet? I'm talking about the orangish-red color on the side. I have an area where the paint has been scratched pretty bad that I'd love to repaint.

 

Once again, thanks everyone for the help.

[Cassidy Nolen]

Glad that helped Neos are hard to adjust by yourself, too. Hard to reach and see at the same time. I suppose I should get a little mirror....nah, too much common sense.

 

As for the reddish machine color, I thought it was a laminate coloring rather than a spray on finish. Maybe somebody has some experience? Might also want to ask the question on rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (RGVAC for short) and see if anybody has ever refinished one.

 

CrazyC, you have the classic 7000 score issue. Happens on most of them. A cap kit will fix that but you have to discharge the monitor carefully. Don't want to open that bag of worms on the forum again Seriosly, if you do decide to cap it, very straightforward on that monitor. Its a 45 minute job that pays mad returns when you see the result.

 

 

C

[elviticus]

Glad that helped Neos are hard to adjust by yourself, too. Hard to reach and see at the same time. I suppose I should get a little mirror....nah, too much common sense.

 

Exactly, it kind of started driving me crazy.... Turn the knobs, walk around, turn the knobs walk around back - over and over!

 

Good advice about the color - it probably isn't paint, but I want to keep the Neo logo on the side and I figure I'd loose that if I stripped it.

 

I've heard some talk about cap kits - can you give me some info on what type of improvements they offer? How hard would it be for a novice like myself to do?

[Cassidy Nolen]

I'll be honest, folks on this forum differ in opinion about the dangers of discharging a monitor prior to board removal. Rather than hash that debate out, you may want to research the correct procedure to discharge a monitor and decide if you are comfortable with it. If done incorrectly, can really spank you. If you do it right, its very uninteresting and occasionally makes no audible sound/trait at all. I am on the "you can do it yourself" side of the fence on most everything but elective surgery though...

 

With that said, once the chassis is off of the monitor its a simple act of seek and replace. Eletrolytic capacitors have one leg longer than the other to indicate polarity and you match that to the chassis position. A good soldering iron and you are good to go. Parts are available from a number of places. I usually go with Zanen in Texas (888-449-2636) or therealbobroberts.com and tell them what monitor I need a kit for. 10 bucks and a few days, bam its here.

 

If you have a good looking picture I would not sweat it. If you had a runny picture, tear areas on the image, color fade or bleed, an image that was dancing or something like that, you may want to do it. FTWIW, the games in my personal collection only get kits under 3 conditions:

 

1. They look like crap

2. They don't work

3. I get bored.

 

I never get bored. In other words, my suggestion is if it ain't broke, dont fix it. When the screen gets wobbly after you fry your brain on Metal Slug and Puzzle Bobble, then revisit it

 

Cheers,

C