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See here for HSC supported games. I don't know about the savekey. Mitch

Would it be possible to get an updated complete list of games that utilize the High Score Cart and Save key (Atari Vox)? I would like to add all of these games in a separate folder for high score chasing.

I have wondered about the availability of replacement cx52s in the '80s -- was not paying attention at the time but often see 5200 joysticks in boxes on ebay apparently showing that they were sold separately from the consoles. Does anyone have info about the number of these individually packaged joysticks produced and/or their geographic distribution?

It was a joke in relation to the lukewarm reception it got on these forums. I think a lot is done right on the machine, it has potential... But, as this is a 2600 part of the community I think that the topic was aimed more at VCS games.

I think for Atari to succeed it needs to go forward based on what is past. Best way to leverage a name that brought so much happiness to so many of us over the years. And my teenage self really wants to see all of this succeed, and I love to see what could have been, and now can be again! What I want to see for game releases follows some themes: 1. New titles, especially arcade classics for the 7800. It deserved a lot more love back in the day than it got, and here we are 30 years later seeing that happen, especially in the homebrew space. 2. I definitely believe in re-releases, especially of games that did not have a wide release, whether they were sold in exclusive locations (Atari Club comes to mind) or at the tail end of the crash, where copies were not plentiful, or retail chains decided not to take these games seriously because Nintendo. Also, I agree with John Stamos Mullet: time to undercut all these eBay sellers who want to sell these carts at ridiculous prices. I'm all about the capitalism and making a buck, but I care about the hobby more. Everyone who wants a shot at obtaining these games should get that chance, and at a reasonable price. And if Atari does this at reasonable prices (which I'm okay with the 30 dollar price point its been using - beyond that, not so much), then hopefully they can succeed, and be with us for a long time. 3. Any of the games Atari release over the past couple of years as limited editions. There should be a regular release of those games so the rest of us can enjoy them. Save Mary, Aquaventure, Saboteur, and Yars Return. I'm not against a collectors' version for those that are into that, but lets make sure there is a reasonably priced version for the masses (small as we may be!). Of course I remember that patience is a virtue here, as Atari's abilities are limited compared to its heyday, but that's my dream! Don't get me started on my 5200 wishlist! P.S. I'm looking for work...hey Atari, I'm looking at you!!

There we go! ^^^^THESE!!!! Actually, Anything Bob DeCrescenzo will work!

First pick would be a port of Warlords for the 7800. Second choice would be an Empire Strikes Back port.

Mega ST. Reading up it looks like I need two pin Cherry switches right?

8450 using 4 port 5200 and oe cx52

The marketing department is taking care of all that. Now I just need to find a marketing team. Well, I am sure I can reuse some Amazon boxes... The used shopping bags aren't good for the environment, so at least I can claim to be green.

bumper bash - 50735 (improved score)

I believe Robert DeCrescenzo was working on Adventure 3 for the 7800, but had to stop due to the buyout of AtariAge. Let's revive that!

Tested with a new Chinese 9v 2A and it’s much better except with one game … Gorf which is on a Sony CDR instead of Memorex like the rest of my burns (I had to load Battlemorph twice though, first time got the question mark), even the Etsy WTR worked. As I was at it I tried a Genesis 1 adapter (9v 1.2A) and it also fails at Gorf and some Memorex needed a second try, none of that with the Jaguar power supply, all the burns just work with it. The 2 pressed CDs I have (Alice… and Simone) both work perfectly every time no matter the JagCD power supply I use, so it seems CDRs are the ones affected with WTR just happening to be one of those more impacted … if I have time I can read the ATIP and compare, I also have a few Taiyo Yuden around I could burn to see if they work any better with the various power supply … after all there are only a dozen JagCD games. Is there a guide to calibrate the JagCD laser? Maybe raising a little the power could help. As to how a seemingly working power supply can in any way impact the laser pickup is beyond me, if I open the unit a may just as well recap it.

They keep the best ones and sell the rest on ebay at rarey expensive prices.

Just post what you want to see released. This was the first post on the thread. “just post in the thread what 2600 or 7800 game you'd like to see Atari release - re-issue of an old game, port from a different system, perhaps a newly developed game?” Thats the best thing about the Atari 2600+. It runs old and new cartridges. If you want to acquire originals much cheaper that’s great, But you’ll most likely acquire a deteriorating copy. One with damaged label! Most likely without a box and manual. Speaking for myself I purchased the Atari 2600+ looking to buy Brand new homebrews, Brand new rereleases of games and New releases. Who would have thought in our lifetime we would see the Atari 2600/7800 brought back to life! Have You Played Atari Today!

When we say "later", keep in mind that we're potentially only talking about a few months or even several weeks of difference. Just because the company entered "bankruptcy" doesn't mean that the company could not have been sold by Quaker to someone else, or (more likely) be taken over by its creditors who might continue to churn out cartridges in an attempt to recoup some of their losses. Or it could be a situation similar to those later, budget-quality cartridges produced by Telesys that essentially constituted a final run that was made for a specific customer which the company had an obligation to. I can't say for certain but there are any number of possible explanations. If the beveled Name This Game cartridges were not produced later, what is your explanation for them lacking the contest form or any other mention of the contest? It's certainly conceivable that cartridges might be produced at different facilities or even in different countries. But companies don't usually do this unless there is some financial or logistical reason for doing so (as in the Telesys example given above). Are we to believe that demand was so high for the U.S. Games titles that it couldn't be handled by one producer? And why have these two different facilities making products at the exact same time that are markedly different? The beveled cartridges are a completely different shape and use a two-piece label that's printed on lower quality paper stock, which 40+ years later has resulted in Actiplaque-style mottling and missing end labels on these games. It's worth noting that those beveled cartridge shells were used by other publishers, so it's possible that it wasn't even U.S. Games who commissioned them in the first place and they were used simply due to availability or low cost. I would also add that bar codes were just starting to be added to published media in the early 80s. The fact that the boxes for the standard versions lack UPCs and that at least some of the beveled ones have them should tell you a lot about what order they were produced. I believe if you were open these cartridges and look at date codes on the chips it would confirm this, but this is admittedly something I have never done. Of course, I've never had any reason to...I've always been under the impression that the beveled cartridges came later. We might be talking about a very short difference in time here, but I simply can't imagine any logical scenario where both variations we produced conterminously.

They also want to find out who's older, so they can target the feeble. little do they know that this is what they'll be meeting when they reach my door.

i was talking to him, each one will be custom. the box will be whatever shopping bag he has at the time; target walmart, etc. the instructions will each be hand written and illustrated. it will awesome! jk

When you use the SCROLL statement, the STIC simply offsets the main screen up to seven pixels in the top row, or seven pixels in the left side (depending on the offsets). This means the STIC simply replicates the border color in the non-used space and the top and left sides. So you need to use BORDER 0,1 to hide the left side, BORDER 0,2 to hide only the top side, or BORDER 0,3 to hide both the top and left sides. There are some scrolling examples included with IntyBASIC, but the important thing is that when you use SCROLL 0,0,3, you should update immediately after the WAIT the top row. You have very few cycles to do this. BORDER 0,2 ' Hide top row. game_loop: SCROLL 0,0,3 WAIT ' As few possible code here so the update happens fast. ' Option 1 PRINT AT 0," " ' Twenty spaces ' Option 2: FOR c = 0 TO 19: #backtab(c) = 0: NEXT c ' Option 3: More optimum. SCREEN blank_row,0,0,20,1 GOTO game_loop: blank_row: DATA 0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0

Update: Well, I guess I'm glad that @Rom Hunter convinced me to remove the tape and the "crappy plastic frame," because what it has revealed was something I was not expecting... Here are the results: Pic 1: tape and frame removed, front of the image. Pic 2: Back of the "poster" with tape and frame removed (poor lighting; it's actually a glossy yellow): When I removed the tape and frame, I immediately discovered that it isn't actually one piece of rigid plastic after all, rather it is two pieces glued back to back... Pic 3: separating the front piece from the back piece: It is now that I realize what this really is: a high-gloss poster-board print, glued to another piece of yellow high gloss poster-board, back to back. There are a few dabs of glue holding them together, so I decide to separate them completely. Pic 4: The two separated pieces laid side by side, glossy sides up: Pic 5: Here is the non-glossy side of the front piece image, now separated from the glossy yellow piece that had been its backing. So, now I know it was not in fact printed on plastic, but rather a high-gloss fairly thick piece of poster-board. A bit of a bummer... Still, it does leave some unanswered questions. Because I acquired it in 1999, it is for sure at least 25 years old. Maybe it wasn't printed in the 1980s, but maybe it was. I worked at a shop that had offset presses in '98-'99, and I can definitely say that there was no color printer at that time which could have produced this image. Although not plastic, this is still a fairly thick piece of poster-board, and the printed image is high-gloss. So I believe it was probably produced on an offset press, which at the time was still just expensive enough that it seems unlikely that a casual "fan" would pay to have this done. So I still think it could have been produced for use in some sort of promotional fashion, perhaps by an ad agency contracted by Atari and perhaps for use at a trade show, convention, or maybe just an internal meeting at Atari. Now, I'm not sure if it was actually meant to be backlit, but I did just try shining a flashlight through the back, and it does actually light up and looks pretty cool. As for the "blurry and pixelated" look that @Psionic mentions above, I think that is due to the fact that if you look up-close at the image, it is made of "dots;" I'm not sure how to describe this properly, but it is reminiscent of how the Sunday comics were printed back in the day (as a series of colored dots printed one layer at a time and built up to produce different shades.) It's a odd effect and I can't speak to why this piece was printed that way; perhaps to facilitate back-lighting? I'm not sure. So yeah, I guess this piece is not super-valuable, but I would still like to solve the mystery of its provenance. Even knowing now that it is printed on glossy paperboard and not (much more expensive) plastic, I still don't think it's fan-made, unless that fan perhaps worked at a print shop on offset presses, and produced it for their own personal use? Perhaps that's all it is, but I am going to continue to search for any evidence that this was made for promotional purposes (maybe not by Atari, but perhaps for Atari's benefit at a trade show or some similar purpose.) So at least for me, although the revelation of how it was constructed has changed things, it still doesn't explain why someone would want to have it printed like this in the first place...

Great news!! I've got my first 2600+ shelved due to a wonky socket! Can't wait to solder one of these bad boys in there so I can feed my Atari addiction in multiple rooms.

I too have some questions about the quality of the print, but at the same time color printing onto plexiglass probably wasn't as good in the early 80's either. I guess for me I kinda lean towards 'why would anyone *besides* Atari make this'?

I'd love to see reissues of some classic Atari 2600 games BUT with added simultanious multiplayer options. Missile Command, Breakout, Berzerk, so many others we all love would be amazing to play with family and friends AT THE SAME TIME! I think that would add a whole new level to a lot of games. If multicarts are the way forward for 2600 releases let's get one that's every release by US Games! Imagine the excitement of flipping some dip switches to change Gopher to Squeeze Box! Tired of Entombed!? Bust out those paddles for Eggomania! Food Fight is the best video game for the 7800 (or any other system) so I'm crossing my fingers for a Food Fight Frenzy release I can play on the 2600+. I don't know much about Food Fight Frenzy yet, but it looks like Food Fight so I'm already completely sold. More Charley Chuck please.

The problem is that when you are scrolling downwards, there is nothing on top -- the screen is literally being shifted downwards for 7 pixels, and there is nothing up there. This is the reason why you extend the border to cover the top row: so that you hide the fact that the "blankness" of the edge of the screen is moving downwards. The other complication is that the screen copy of 11 rows downwards on the 8th shift needs to be done from top to bottom. That means that you can't really erase the top row after shifting because you need it there to copy it downwards. -dZ.

I just received the Speedlink, and agree. I don't find it's stiffness ideal for the mini. I actually prefer the CXSTICK, or might try Retro Game's TheJoystick with its eight buttons. The Speedlink is probably getting returned.