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I finished the demo a couple of days ago. It was fantastic, like all the other games.

CIEDE is "a bit" computationally expensive color distance to calculate https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_difference#CIEDE2000

8 Years Later An arcade version of Night Driver is needed IMO. I think, mainly, as others before me have said, just remove the houses and the trees and the oncoming cars. And maybe make some minor alterations to your car and make the color of your car orange. In other words, make it look like the arcade game. (See below.) Night Driver (Atari, 1978, arcade)

Very sorry for your loss! Better give lots of love to Atari so he knows you are there for him...Such a bummer.

For those following the earlier post about speed in RastaConverter, I updated it with important info: Using ciede as a generation comparison is what is overall killing my rates, although I need to retest in steps again to see if there is a similar falloff in thread speed. Using YUV with all 32 threads engaged on my 7950X3D I am getting rates as high as 350K+, but it highly variable.

Umm... Yeah, I heard that, too. But in this case the host of the Intellivisionaries will be interviewing you.

So sorry to hear your news James 😪

Ah, thx. Missed that GitHub was now there.

I have heard there are avenues for contesting PayPal's decision in a dispute. PayPal usually provides a process for appealing their decision, such as submitting additional evidence or requesting a review of the case by a higher authority within PayPal's dispute resolution team. When contesting a decision, it's important to carefully follow PayPal's instructions and provide any relevant information or documentation that supports your case. This could include additional proof of delivery, communication with the buyer, or any other evidence that sheds light on the situation. While there's no guarantee of success in contesting a decision, it's worth pursuing if you believe that PayPal's initial ruling was unjust or inaccurate. Be sure to review PayPal's policies and procedures for disputes to understand the specific steps and requirements for appealing a decision.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CNT9KFZY/ref=cbw_us_gb_dp_ags?smid=A2KVF7QXNCLV8H#immersive-view_1715720026259 Hopefully this works

Umm… I thought I left the show?

My fault. Sorry.

The fabulous 4: Pitfall II HERO Private Eye Beamrider

Well, I figure it's only fair that I post a follow-up. PayPal ruled against me as they didn't accept the letter from USPS and provided by Mr. Radomsky, himself, that stated the package had been delivered. Then, they had the audacity to charge me another $15.00 for contesting the dispute. With the extra $15.00, I am out a total of $123.00 It doesn't look like they bothered to check out the message screenshots showing that Mr. Radomsky knew it was stolen in the first place. I will say this: Not only will I never do business with Mr. Radomsky again, but if I get a suspicion that somebody else is being used by him as a proxy I won't sell to them, either. So, if you want to use PayPal to get free stuff, file a dispute 121 days after delivery to ensure that USPS has deleted the tracking information. PayPal allows for disputes to be filed up to 180 days after delivery and long after USPS deleted the tracking information. I guess the moral of the story is I am responsible for porch pirates even if somebody confirms the package I shipped was stolen off of their own porch. Needless to say, when I build something that takes weeks to design, requires prototypes, requires countess hours building, many hours testing and tuning it to also discover I am also responsible for theft after delivery, I believe I need to re-evaluate the situation. (I also spent a couple hours compiling all of the messages and other information, to provide to PayPal to support my position.) Right now, my options are.... 1. I can increase my shipping rates, charge more, require signature delivery, and take my chances that I still won't be responsible for theft. 2. I can take up more of my time, track every package, and download the tracking information. Maybe PayPal would accept this? 3. I can muddle on as I am doing, refund anything upon demand, and do nothing. 4. I can increase my prices so as to cover this sort of thing. 5. I can finish up what I am working on and move on to better pastures. Right now, option 5 is looking really good. 😞 I absolutely refuse to also be responsible for somebody else's theft. Note that the document, below, with the title of "Response Re Case..." has the screenshots and messages showing proof the items listed in the summary.

I remember seeing the "pin layout" of an INTV2 a long ago. I don't recall all the facts, but I noticed a "human code" meaning the electronics doesn't care what you press but the software does. If each pin can either contain a charge or no charge (binary) then there are 512 possible states, 256 if one pin is designated ground and is not part of the code. I remember these facts. There are 3 column buttons for the 3 columns of the keypad. If one of those buttons are pressed, the 4 of the other pins correspond to the rows. If two of those column buttons are pressed that corresponds to one of 3 action buttons. I call them AB, BC, and AC because that's what pins need to be actuated. Because of that Defender has a fifth button state, ABC when any 2 buttons are pressed. If I remember right there are 5 pins used to determine one of 16 ways. If I remember right, there is a Pad signal button. If it is off it's in neutral, (the bullseye). If it is on the disc is pressed. The other 4 pins are +180 +90 +45 and +22.5 and all 16 possibilities are a unique combination of 4 binary choices. Notice to make a secondary direction it's always light up the 45 bit. I remember there was a separate tertiary bit for one consistent "near" tertiary and the tert bit and the secondary but for the "far" tertiary. What button combinations equal the 16 directions and neutral with neutral keypad and neutral buttons? If that theory is right, then the way to ambidexterize the pad is to NOT the 180 bit. (Turn an on into an off and an off into an on). All 16 compass directions should be correct if that theory is correct. I'm not sure about the directions, but I know I'm right about the keypad and buttons and the dual columns acting as a "non Keypad indicator" which uses the disc. I'm going completely off memory when I was earlier researching this when discussing Netrogames with Keith Robinson. I remember trying to compute how many bits per second the internet connection has to be to traffic the joystick data. It's 8 bits / player-controller frame. I don't if the controller frame rate is 30 reads per second or 60 and how that corresponds to TV frames per second, but it easily fits under 1kb/s. Reading the pins purely will maintain the same quirks as the original control scheme. Which means press only one key and don't press anything else with a key or else your results will only be predictable to code readers and usually not in real time. I'm sure of the buttons and key pad and the buttons. I'm need to look a "pin lighting map" to see if that angle theory is right and corresponding to neutral and 16 directions. I see on Google "4 Way instructions". I'm going to look at that to see if this disproves that theory. This is like a real life game of Euleusis, the card game of inductive reasoning. BTW not being disproven means I need to gather more data. I'll go check it out and update. Back from the update. Ask Google the right way and you find it. Looking at it, the logic it there is a definite N at pin 2, easy at pin 2, south on pin 4 and west in pin 1. That's why a 4 Way is easy. It looks like by looking at the logic, it is a 12 sensor system, exactly like the pad builder said. When I designed the Sinister Stick 180 for personal use and industry submission I noticed that switching north and south with each other, as well as east and west with each other (along with swapping same strength punches and kicks in Street Fighter 2) works when ambidexterizing by 180ing the controller. Buttons have to be manually wired as AB AC and AB. The keypad can reverse the order of the column pins and row pins. Now I just have to see if ambidexterizing the stick and keypad don't contradict each other. BRB I need to make a detailed chart, but looking at it, 180ing the longpad or a traditional fight stick will carry it's consistency, like Mattel system designers were originally thinking of a horizontal pad that is 180able. The Pinout looks like a relic of that. But they chose a vertical layout instead of horizontal, much to the pain of INTV haters and even a few masochistic INTV lovers. Imagine if Mattel chose a horizontal layout instead of vertical. But ambidexterity was already at the heart of the design, even with a horizontal design.

Why you gotta be a party pooper? No worries, where there's a will there's a different way. Time to add another project to my list. (why is it ever growing?) It's time to source some parts.

Ok, here is the corrected version.

I remember seeing the "pin layout" of an INTV2 a long ago. I don't recall all the facts, but I noticed a "human code" meaning the electronics doesn't care what you press but the software does. If each pin can either contain a charge or no charge (binary) then there are 512 possible states, 256 if one pin is designated ground and is not part of the code. I remember these facts. There are 3 column buttons for the 3 columns of the keypad. If one of those buttons are pressed, the 4 of the other pins correspond to the rows. If two of those column buttons are pressed that corresponds to one of 3 action buttons. I call them AB, BC, and AC because that's what pins need to be actuated. Because of that Defender has a fifth button state, ABC when any 2 buttons are pressed. If I remember right there are 5 pins used to determine one of 16 ways. If I remember right, there is a Pad signal button. If it is off it's in neutral, (the bullseye). If it is on the disc is pressed. The other 4 pins are +180 +90 +45 and +22.5 and all 16 possibilities are a unique combination of 4 binary choices. Notice to make a secondary direction it's always light up the 45 bit. I remember there was a separate tertiary bit for one consistent "near" tertiary and the tert bit and the secondary but for the "far" tertiary. What button combinations equal the 16 directions and neutral with neutral keypad and neutral buttons? If that theory is right, then the way to ambidexterize the pad is to NOT the 180 bit. (Turn an on into an off and an off into an on). All 16 compass directions should be correct if that theory is correct. I'm not sure about the directions, but I know I'm right about the keypad and buttons and the dual columns acting as a "non Keypad indicator" which uses the disc. I'm going completely off memory when I was earlier researching this when discussing Netrogames with Keith Robinson. I remember trying to compute how many bits per second the internet connection has to be to traffic the joystick data. It's 8 bits / player-controller frame. I don't if the controller frame rate is 30 reads per second or 60 and how that corresponds to TV frames per second, but it easily fits under 1kb/s. Reading the pins purely will maintain the same quirks as the original control scheme. Which means press only one key and don't press anything else with a key or else your results will only be predictable to code readers and usually not in real time. I'm sure of the buttons and key pad and the buttons. I'm need to look a "pin lighting map" to see if that angle theory is right and corresponding to neutral and 16 directions. I see on Google "4 Way instructions". I'm going to look at that to see if this disproves that theory. This is like a real life game of Euleusis, the card game of inductive reasoning. BTW not being disproven means I need to gather more data. I'll go check it out and update.

I am definitely of a collector mindset. I often regret replacing labels and look for pristine originals as replacements. I also think that’s nuts. High quality replacements for damaged labels are a great entry point. I am also on the slippery slope to a complete m network set and maybe intv as well. I love the efforts to preserve and enhance the original artwork

This reminds me a PC game in which you could swap engines is a car or something... Ancient times!

I'm just about to start setting up my GSP in a few days. I'll just be using the official 1.30 update, and dropping roms in individual system folders. For MAME, is there a consensus for which MAME version works best out of these 3 (all from Archive.org)?: - MAME0.37b5_MAME2000_Reference_Set_Update_2_ROMs_Samples - MAME0.139RomCollectionByGhostware - MAME2003_Reference_Set_MAME0.78_ROMs_CHDs_Samples Which is the best in terms of number of working games? And is there any artwork folder out there for any of those 3? Does the GSP even use the Artwork folder?

Looks really good in black!

You paid $200 for a product that was sold for $129? maybe you’re just an idiot.

Oh - had not seen this. Therefore my late reply... Thank you Carl! Vamos looks interesting but it's limited to pure console apps. But for running handyasm it's in fact an alternative to a full winuae setup.