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Really? I think it looks terrible, if I found that in the wild there is no way I would plug it into anything that I owned. I think that to say a sealed unit design was short sighted is an over statement, first the expected lifespan of most products is 10-15 years and so the expectation at time of manufacture would be that the unit and its power supply would be discarded long before it was likely to fail, not that the items would still be in use 30-40 later. Second, the idea of a sealed unit was precisely to stop people (who generally don't know what they are doing) from tampering and trying to affecting repairs, because if done incorrectly and it subsequently lead to an electric shock or destroys the item it is powering the manufacture can clearly point to the very evident tampering/self repair and say it's not our fault, it would have been fine if someone had not not tampered with the PSU. Would it not just be easier and more reliable to find another 9V, 3.5A DC power unit with the correct polarity (and size adaptor if necessary for the DC power Jack to get the correct fit).

This whole thing is more confusing than wondering who Parker Bros didn't tell when system their games be for.

Should be next week I expect. I’m trying to track down some issues with stability, but it seems to be the Jaguar rather than my hardware, so there’s not much more I can do. For instance, yesterday, I found just the address of a 68k instruction in RAM which was reading from the GPU would change stability. Put a .phrase before the function and it helped with stability. When you find out things like this you pretty much have to give up thinking you can get it 100%. As I’ve probably said before, the Jaguar is the most unstable piece of crap I’ve ever worked with. And I say this affectionately… 😆

Guys, Did you see this? GenX Jon just did a MUST SEE interview with Garry Kitchen on this very topic! SUMMARY

AI is an unstoppable force. We're really in for it now. -Ben

In Stella, the screen turns completely black after a while with only the title showing up in different colors. No rolling, though.

How much are you asking?

I'm not following you on the Alt+255 thing here, roots. On my computer I type a "4" or a "5"...Something to do with links or?...And, what are you writing if not articles? I'm sure I'm missing something important...

OK Credit where due,...I'm still laughing,,1 (two), Series (parallel)...That's pretty funny! I remember when Nintendo (Who always butchered up the names of their console right before release...Remember Ultra, and Dolphin?). changed the name of the Nintendo Revolution to the Wii. We couldn't believe it! I said what's the sequel gonna be called, the Nintendo Wii Wii Wii all the way home?

If this is helpful, I just took his words and images and pasted them into a PDF. Sword of SURTR - instructions.pdf

Well, we'll see. I may not even write about video games anymore anyway... And I don't think people will read my release digests years after, they're not exactly articles. Also, I must precise I still have to type "PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 5" if the two systems don't share the same PlayStation Store page (the whole point is providing the links to the store page).

I'm talking about the reason for why they used that font also in the TMS 9918A manual. The origin of it. And that's pretty clear. They didn't know any better since they already had it in their logotype. The logotype has changed, but seems to have been all caps all the time.

Adding Storm (Mastertronic) Air Rescue I (Microprose) Asteroids Bacterion! Bruce Lee Cavelord (2nd player is gunner) Crystal Raiders (2nd player control jumping) Cyborg Warriors Dandy Dark Chambers Diamond Mine (Roklan) (Friendly Mode) Dropzone (2nd player controls smartbomb, cloak) Gauntlet Ghost Hunter Joust Mario Bros. XE Maze War Rampage! Realm of Impossibility Rescue of Fractalus (second player is co-pilot) Robix Robotron 2084 (2nd player is gunner) Schreckenstein Scramble (2nd player for bombing) Shadow World (Synapse Software) (Not sure about this one) Storm Survivor (2nd player is gunner) The Convicts The Goonies Wizard of Wor Worm War I Zeppelin (2nd player is gunner) Zybex

All seems a bit complex. Decided to burn the 6 ROM 1.04 TOS and a few mods to the board and all going great! Thanks for everyone's advice.

Interesting. I didn't know that there was a 2nd button support launching i.e. the water flush. Unfortunately it's really only that one effect so making the 2 player co-op experience a bit limited. Anyway it would be quite a candidate for some co-op "hack"

Hi, another program of this kind (Windows or Linux). It also makes CFG files with the best config of Atari 8-bit. DOWNLOAD: https://www.sendspace.com/file/1ake7f ______________________________________ Grupa Dupa (Mono & Yerz) + Hooy-Program (Hellboj & Yerz) present: ****************** ATARI 400 MINI MAKE CONFIG ****************** Coding: Mono & Hellboj Idea and constant whining: Yerzmyey The archive contains versions for Linux and Windows. INSTRUCTION: It's kind of simple actually - put the files into the catalogue / folder You have the Atari files and run the prog. (The program doesn't read sub-catalogues, so You have to repeat the action for each folder). In return You FINALLY get the the normal Atari 8-bit configuration on The400Mini - 128Kb of RAM and full-screen resolution (here: 350x240 pixels). (C) Grupa Dupa & H-PRG 04.2024

Below is an updated version of Chippi that includes the following features and fixes: Added PiiP-8, a CHIP-8 program which computes the digits of PI (just in case people viewed my using other's CHIP-8 work as cheating) Used JoeZ's bin2wav program to add WAV files of each ECS program tape, allowing Chippi to be used on real hardware 10%-20% speed improvement (game dependent) Added (F)ull speed mode that runs the emulator as fast as possible Added the ability to pick the (dis)chord of the beeper from a choice of 8 Changed the key that adjusts sound volume to down arrow, to better match the the use of up arrow to select the chord Each game now has a default colour scheme, chord and speed that will be used if you don't tweak the configuration before loading it Errors in the documentation have been corrected Graphical bleed-through immediately after loading a new game following a M/C reset has been fixed An overflow edge case bug in the implementation of the LD [I], Vx instruction has been fixed Bit of code crunch to keep the ROM to 4K ROM: chippi-240426.zip

I do remember it being absolutely amazing, with something like 30 cars visible on the track at once, and graphics that actually beat the PS2 version. And you can *actually* play 24 hours of Le Mans on the DC version, which I think was removed on the PS2. Now, about this Infogrames thing... current Atari *is* Infogrames, so it doesn't make any sense people getting excited about "Atari bringing back" Infogrames. This is just Infogrames bringing back Infogrames, after using the Atari name as a springboard to get back into the public consciousness. I have no problem with it, but it's just weird to see the reactions, as if "Atari" is somehow resurrecting a defunct company.

I think it's great. I wonder when gamers (both modern and retro) became such whiners about every little thing...

Oh I feel the same way in regards to AI. There's a lot of unethical profiteering going on there.

That's exactly what it was. I got missile command and followed what you and crossbow said, everything works perfectly now! Thanks guys!

I would like to know what new stuff programmers have learned about the Jaguar after 30 years. Has it been determined how close the Jag can get to PS1's 3D capabilities yet? I know the Jag can do absolutely stunningly beautiful 2D graphics, there is no denying that!

Make sure you check the output of the voltage regulators prior to installing any cards. I've had bad, brand new, voltage regulators.

I’d be game for a 2600 and 7800 when they’re both ready if you’re still building a list.

That’s absolutely true. The end of the cable that connects to the controller can be removed and opened up, exposing the wires. And you can remove the entire cable from the console and the controller pretty easily as well. But if your goal is to REPLACE the original coiled cable with a straight / longer cable (and re-use the connectors at both ends of the original coiled cable), you should be OK with the controller end, although it takes patience and some ability with tools, and wire cutters / strippers if you are planning to thread all 9 wires of a new cable into the connector and reassemble it. But yes, no soldering is required. The end of the cable with the motherboard SIP connector will be more of a challenge. In my experience, there are a few variations of that connector. Some can be pulled apart, but some are sealed / molded plastic. You will likely destroy those when attempting to get them apart. Some can’t be taken apart at all, you would have to cut the wires, then try to push the pins out with an extractor tool. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to reuse those pins. Most likely you’ll need new ones, which will also require a crimping tool and a pin insertion tool. But yes, no soldering required.