CatPix Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 And reading your first post, do you have other electronic or electric stuff that crap out more than usual? Sometime power strips, outlets, might be poorly wired, dirty, or have a huge load on the same circuit (washing machine) that cause the power supply to your outlet to be irregular, which can cause troubles and failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 And reading your first post, do you have other electronic or electric stuff that crap out more than usual? Sometime power strips, outlets, might be poorly wired, dirty, or have a huge load on the same circuit (washing machine) that cause the power supply to your outlet to be irregular, which can cause troubles and failure. Just the intellivision while the colecovision sometimes has issues when I turn it on. I just unplug the power supply from the console and plug it back in. Intellivision crapped out during Microsugeon earlier today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 It gets really problematic with the intellvoice plugged in. Voice gets static and it keeps freezing and screen goes black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 It gets really problematic with the intellvoice plugged in. Voice gets static and it keeps freezing and screen goes black. The static in the audio will very likely just be the volume control dial on the Intellivoice. Clean with deoxit and spin the dial up and down a few times. Adjust the volume so the voices are a similar volume to the rest of the game sounds. As for the freezing/black screening, your power supply board may not be providing enough power under load. Have you cleaned the cartridge slot, power connectors and power switch with deoxit? Check the voltage on the 5V and 12V lines under load. If the voltage on the 5V is dipping too low, it could explain the black screens and crashes. Are either or both of the voltage regulators on the power board getting very hot? If you don't have another power board to swap in to try, a shotgun approach would be to replace the electrolytic caps and the 7805 and 7812 voltage regulators on the power supply board. The regulators should be quite cheap, the 2200uF 25V and 10000uF 16V/25V parts will be a little bit pricier for quality parts (Nichicon, etc). But since these parts are now more than 30 years old, replacing them is probably a good idea. The 7805 5V regulator is probably a good place to start. - J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 reseting the intellivision clears up the intellivoice. Don't know what the regulators are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 reseting the intellivision clears up the intellivoice. Don't know what the regulators are? Bradhig1, The Regulators are the same things that you had me fix on your heavy sixer. Only the Intellivision has two of them attached to heatsinks and usually screwed down onto the power board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Bradhig1, The Regulators are the same things that you had me fix on your heavy sixer. Only the Intellivision has two of them attached to heatsinks and usually screwed down onto the power board. Oh their under the heatsinks. I could take the top off and put my voltage regulator on the caps and regulators to see what the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 (edited) Oh their under the heatsinks. I could take the top off and put my voltage regulator on the caps and regulators to see what the problem is. Not quite under the heatsinks. They actually are ontop of the heatsinks. The +5 sits on the heatsink and is attached to the largest heatsink on that board and usually screwed down flat against the power board. The +12 stands up and is screwed down to its heatsink assembly. Here is a picture I took off the web and circled the areas I'm talking about. The +5 is marked with 7805 on it and the +12 should be labeled with a 7812 on it. Edited August 1, 2017 by -^Cro§Bow^- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 I just got old skool and b17 bomber today. I got to play old skool and b17 bomber didn't have any intellivoice issues but it cut out after returning to England after bombing one target. I was thinking about get a Sears Super Video Arcade and part swapping with it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_me Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Have you given the main board a good inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 voltage on the big cap is 9.2 and voltage on the smaller blue cap is 18.67 Voltage on +5 voltage regulator is 4.43 I can't reach the +12 voltage regulator with the voltmeter cause the heat sink is in the way and trying to touch the probes to the leads causes the Intellivision to act the same way when it fails. So I think that voltage regulator is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Have you given the main board a good inspection? it looks clean. I don't see anything that looks problematic on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 voltage on the big cap is 9.2 and voltage on the smaller blue cap is 18.67 Voltage on +5 voltage regulator is 4.43 I can't reach the +12 voltage regulator with the voltmeter cause the heat sink is in the way and trying to touch the probes to the leads causes the Intellivision to act the same way when it fails. So I think that voltage regulator is the problem. Been running it with the top off and no problems and nothing on the power board gets hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 So without the cover it works. Means something on the power board was overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Put the cover back on and started having problems again due to overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+fdr4prez Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Put the cover back on and started having problems again due to overheating. Sounds like you've got yourself a convertible console...likes to run with the wind blowing through her hair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 You might have a bad/dry/cracked solder joint on the 12V regulator. You could try reflowing the solder on the regulators as a quick fix. But I would definitely replace the voltage regulators by the sounds of it. Don't forget to use a small blob of heatsink compound between the backs of the regulators and the heatsink. When you reflow or resolder the regulators, remove any existing solder and use isopropyl alcohol to clean away any ancient flux so you can make sure the pads are as clean as possible when you apply fresh solder. - J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 You might have a bad/dry/cracked solder joint on the 12V regulator. You could try reflowing the solder on the regulators as a quick fix. But I would definitely replace the voltage regulators by the sounds of it. Don't forget to use a small blob of heatsink compound between the backs of the regulators and the heatsink. When you reflow or resolder the regulators, remove any existing solder and use isopropyl alcohol to clean away any ancient flux so you can make sure the pads are as clean as possible when you apply fresh solder. - J I see the flux under the solder. I just bought some new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 I and my mother soldered the stupid 12 voltage regulator several times. It worked for a while and the intellivoice wouldn't work. The ribbon cable got stuck under the brown part for the controller and it is ripped now. For some reason the solder on the 12 volt voltage regulator would not stick it kept coming lose. Why can't this stuff just work. I am sick of replacing , soldering ,and opening because of things that crap out for no reason. I just want a reliable working intellivision. I was sweeting like crazy soldering this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 I and my mother soldered the stupid 12 voltage regulator several times. It worked for a while and the intellivoice wouldn't work. The ribbon cable got stuck under the brown part for the controller and it is ripped now. For some reason the solder on the 12 volt voltage regulator would not stick it kept coming lose. Why can't this stuff just work. I am sick of replacing , soldering ,and opening because of things that crap out for no reason. I just want a reliable working intellivision. I was sweeting like crazy soldering this thing. You should be using 60/40 tin-lead solder (it's easiest to work with), and a soldering iron suitable for electronics work. Ideally a temperature controlled one, so you can boost the heat when needed. If you have a temp controlled station, I find around 300-310 degrees C works for most general work, boosting the temp up a bit for ground planes. When desoldering: 1. Tin the tip of your iron (melt some solder on it and wipe on the wet sponge pad or use a wire wool cleaner), the tip should be bright silver 2. Optionally add flux to the joint (you can buy flux pens cheaply at the electronics store, it will last you ages) 3. Heat the joint with your iron and add new solder to the joint to help the old solder melt and flow 4. Use a desoldering pump or braid to wick away the old solder 5. Clean the pad using isopropyl alcohol and cotton tip For a good solder joint... 1. Optionally apply some liquid flux to the pad being soldered 2. Heat the joint with the tinned soldering iron for a few seconds FIRST, then apply solder to the joint (NOT the iron!). The solder may not form a nice cone initially, keep the heat on it and it should flow into the correct shape and stick when it reaches the right temperature. The solder should flow easily into the joint when it's hot enough, almost instantly in most cases. If the solder doesn't appear to stick after several seconds of direct heat, either your iron isn't hot enough (check if you are soldering a ground plane connection), or the surface being soldered is not clean enough. 3. Clean away any leftover flux with isopropyl alcohol The pads on the regulators are not very large, so be careful not to feed too much solder in. If you do, you can always wick or suck some solder away and retry. Be careful not to lift the pads. If the pads lift it's not the end of the world, you can work around it. Note pads that are connected to large trace areas eg ground planes can require more heat. If the solder is not sticking, then either the pads are dirty, or you didn't use enough flux, or you used not enough heat. Ripping the ribbon cable - Ugh, not ideal, these are so fragile and fall apart so easily. Try taping it to keep it together but check continuity is good. Someone on here did have some new old stock ribbon cables, but you can replace the 5 pin connectors with 2.54mm 5 pin connectors and some ribbon wire. Eg: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 I ordering a new intellivision. I am wondering if there was flux on the board keeping the solder from sticking. The power board is wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Easily repaired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradhig1 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 all the blue cables in the ribbon cable have ripped away from the end that plugs into the power board. The ribbon cable is beyond repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Still sounds pretty basic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_me Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 all the blue cables in the ribbon cable have ripped away from the end that plugs into the power board. The ribbon cable is beyond repair.You can replace it with something better. Any cable with five or more wires like ethernet or thermostat cable for example will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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