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Tips/Tricks/Products Used In Restoration


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#126 KubaCZ OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Apr 6, 2012 1:41 PM

So that's how 1084 is supposed to look :-D Mine is yellowed alot, but it's near old VIC 20 which is yellowed too, so it doesn't look that ugly - I should restore both of them some time ;)

#127 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Fri Apr 6, 2012 2:37 PM

I don't think that porcelain colour is grey enough, but what the Hell - it's done now and at least I learned to spray-paint large items. I've got three of those monitors now and they are all very different colours. :)

#128 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Apr 6, 2012 4:30 PM

I don't think that porcelain colour is grey enough, but what the Hell - it's done now and at least I learned to spray-paint large items. I've got three of those monitors now and they are all very different colours. :)

Just pretend they're NTSC (Never The Same Colour) monitors :)

#129 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 7, 2012 11:51 AM

Just pretend they're NTSC (Never The Same Colour) monitors :)


Good idea! :)

Fitted the guts and it still works:

DSCF4890.JPG

DSCF4906.JPG

That's another 1084S saved from the trash...

#130 unholy OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 7, 2012 3:48 PM

I don't think that porcelain colour is grey enough


It sure seems closer than anything else out there. I keep seeing people on various forums claiming that River Rock is a "dead ringer" for the C64C/C128/A500 case color, but seriously... If you're legally blind, maybe.

In any case, nice job. You gotta let us know how the paint stands up to normal wear and tear.

#131 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Sun Apr 8, 2012 7:53 AM

I don't think that porcelain colour is grey enough


It sure seems closer than anything else out there. I keep seeing people on various forums claiming that River Rock is a "dead ringer" for the C64C/C128/A500 case color, but seriously... If you're legally blind, maybe.


Yep - my tin of "River Rock" turned out to be gloss, and thus useless for this job, but having tested it I see no similarity between that colour and a C64C or A500.

That said - it's pretty hard to establish the precise colour of the original untarnished hardware (photos being deceptive) let alone the exact shade of tins of spray paint, so if you get something that looks right, it's a success.

In any case, nice job. You gotta let us know how the paint stands up to normal wear and tear.


Plastkote is pretty tough stuff, so I expect it to be durable. It's a little more matte than I would have liked, but that's probably down to my super-thin coats.

#132 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:45 AM

No peroxide involved here - just a toothbrush, nail brush, soapy water and a touch of CIF cleaner:

Dom's 800 cleaning.jpg

#133 andym00 OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:58 AM

Surprisingly nice results.. I might have to give this a go on the next victim, although the keys still look fairly hazardous to human health ;)

Actually, is it just the pictures being in different lighting, that makes the keys in the post-scrub picture seem to have lost some of their shine ? They look much more matte than the original picture..

#134 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:58 AM

Actually, is it just the pictures being in different lighting, that makes the keys in the post-scrub picture seem to have lost some of their shine ? They look much more matte than the original picture..


It's just the lighting. I didn't wash the keyboard - I just removed the dust with a soft-brush and it was good to go.

#135 ClausB OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:44 PM

Just finished restoring another 800. Like the last one I did, its keyboard had many broken solder joints, visible with a magnifier as dark circles around the pins. Resoldering fixed that. It also had a bad SYSTEM RESET switch. After desoldering the switch and cutting along the seam around its base, I found that the spring inside had shifted and was not making contact at one end. The switch is unusual as it has a coil spring mounted sideways with two straight ends that touch the contacts when pressed down. Normally hooks on the plunger hold the ends in place but one end had come out and got bent. It took some fiddling but I fixed it and glued it back together. Job done.

#136 w1k OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed May 8, 2013 11:41 AM

3d printing.. maybe new way to make new cases ;)

#137 jacobus OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:40 PM

Is there a safe (easy would be good too!) way to remove stickers from software boxes? With the aim to discard the sticker and save the box. I've heard of using a hair dryer but I don't know how long to apply or what side effects might be.

thanks!

#138 slx OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:37 AM

I got a 400 with a top case broken in several places. I'd like to try to glue it back together. Would superglue (cyan acrylate) be the best choice? Thanks for your help!

Didn't find any source for top cases, neither Best nor B&C list them. Did I overlook something?


Edited by slx, Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:38 AM.


#139 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:29 AM

I got a 400 with a top case broken in several places. I'd like to try to glue it back together. Would superglue (cyan acrylate) be the best choice? Thanks for your help!

Didn't find any source for top cases, neither Best nor B&C list them. Did I overlook something?

I would imagine that would be your best bet.  When beetle made his Atari "laptop", that is what he used to glue the various case pieces together.  I have noticed that it "bleaches" certain plastics though, the repair will almost certainly not be invisible.



#140 Tezz OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Feb 4, 2014 6:05 PM

I got a 400 with a top case broken in several places. I'd like to try to glue it back together. Would superglue (cyan acrylate) be the best choice? Thanks for your help!

Didn't find any source for top cases, neither Best nor B&C list them. Did I overlook something?

I would suggest going for a two part epoxy.



#141 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Tue Mar 25, 2014 10:25 AM

I just fixed the missing lug on the drop-down flap on the aforementioned spray-painted 1084S thus:

Commodore 1084S Flap Fix.JPG

Drilled a 2mm dia hole about 1.5-2mm into the back of the cover (so it didn't go right through to the front), and then drove in a screw with a slightly wider thread (not self-tapping: the thread has to cut in immediately). It's surprisingly sturdy.

#142 cimerians OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:37 AM

A Hair Product this guy uses seems to do the trick VERY well on extreme yellowing consoles etc:

 

http://www.neogaf.co...ad.php?t=899984

 

Hairdresser hydrogen peroxide developer creme



#143 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:48 AM

I've been using that stuff for years with good results.

#144 Atari-Collector OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Nov 9, 2014 7:54 PM

Just reading though this posting and didn't see anybody mention what I have used..  So here it goes.

 

I  have had good luck with using antibacterial "Wet Ones" wipes (the on with the pink top).  They are sold in a plastic bottle that you put a wipe out the top.  (Sold in Walmart near the pharmacy)

They do not attack the plastic or paint and do a good job cleaning off dirt and grunge.  I started using these on ham radios I bought used (because a lot of those old hams have a way of just making radios gross...maybe why  lost interest in radios..)  So they take care of the dirt and germs. 

 

I've used the wipes on my 2600, 600xl, all my cartridges and so on.  A cotton swaps wetted from the extra liquid in the container is good for cleaning out the grills and corners a wipe won't go in.  A popsicle stick or coffee stir dtick can also be used to push the wipes in between keys and in slots.   When I clean contacts, I tend to use rubbing alcohol and dry it off fast. 

 

So I hope this is useful to somebody.



#145 Level42 OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:04 AM

Just went through this thread to see if there were some tips I could use.

 

What I noted is that there were a lot of tips using dishwashers and sometimes also pretty aggresive stuff to clean cases but no-one mentioned using these:

 

MagicEraser.jpg

Now these are the "orignals" but there are plenty of other brands (and non brands) available from about anywhere.

 

What they really are is simply chunks of melamine foam. They work as "microscopic sandpaper": http://home.howstuff...agic-eraser.htm

 

I discovered these through my hobby of restoring arcade machines. I have cleaned up f.i. the side of my Centipede and Gravitar machines and they really are "magic"....the sides didn't only get really clean but brought a whole "freshness" to the colors ! Of course this is because you "sand" off a tiny bit of the top layer so yes you have to be a bit careful with painted stuff, but on Atari 8 bit cases there is no need to worry at all.

In fact I've done it with all my machines with great outcome. The worst that can happen is that you reduce the yellowing a bit (if it's very much on the surface only).

 

The best thing is that you really only need a bit of water. I've also experimented with alcohol but it's just not better than with simple water.

 

They wear out rather quickly but they are also very cheap.

 

I've bought a big box from Korea (Ebay) about 3 years ago but recently my wife picked up a set at the local Action store for just 1 euro, 5 pieces, they are thicker and sturdier than the one's I've had from Korea and seem to last longer.

 

They are often called "power sponge" or something like that here. Note that they are NOT the SotchBrite like sponges you often see, those scratch like crazy !

 

http://www.dragonsla...tach=8541;image


Edited by Level42, Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:19 AM.


#146 plazma OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:43 AM

I also use them. Cheap and works great.

#147 flashjazzcat ONLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 13, 2014 10:17 AM

Of course this is because you "sand" off a tiny bit of the top layer so yes you have to be a bit careful with painted stuff, but on Atari 8 bit cases there is no need to worry at all.


Um... these take the top layer of plastic off and therefore completely alter the texture and finish of the case if not used extremely judiciously. They can be handy for cleaning up "blooming" after a botched Retr0Brite job, but I wouldn't recommend Magic Erasers as your first port of call when de-yellowing an Atari.

#148 kogden OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:49 PM

Yeah, definitely be careful with the magic erasers.  They can screw up just as much as they fix and no amount of further magic erasing will fix the  damage.

 

Definitely DO NOT use them on glossy plastic. 

 

Has anyone figured out how to make a retr0brite job permanent?  With most of mine, the yellowing is back a few months later.



#149 --- Ω --- OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:14 AM

Nice thread!  Good information NEVER goes out of date.  :)

I like this thread so much I linked to it from one of my blog entries so some of my fellow TI'ers can benefit from the good stuff posted here. 






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