31336haxx0r Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 I'm thinking about using hypochlorite instead of peroxide to get rid of bromine. I'll have to look at adjusting the pH value of that solution and how easily the hypochlorite decomposes. IIRC I have a nasty yellow Game Boy around here to try it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjlazer Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 I've been reading these kind of experiences a lot on different forums about retrobrite. I may stay away from this "solution" for a while yet. I think we may all have to accept that yellow is just the way these things are going. Well if you use a UV protectant or clear coat it should eliminate this from happening. I now just wipe down my systems with Armourall after doing the retrobrite. Seems to work well. Keeping it out of sun also helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.golden.ax Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 I've been wanting to do the retrobrite treatment on an original recalled Gateway P5-60 but I don't want to mess up the stickers and logo. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Most people tape over them IIRC or, if possible, remove them and reapply after the treatment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Well if you use a UV protectant or clear coat it should eliminate this from happening. I now just wipe down my systems with Armourall after doing the retrobrite. Seems to work well. Keeping it out of sun also helps. Did you not use this in the instance you mentioned on the previous page or did it just not work well in your particular case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjlazer Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I didn't use anything after the retrobrite, and this particular 65XE the keyboard was very yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w1k Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 who first try this method ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 (edited) This one's come up rather nicely: The owner has kindly allowed me to post photos. That's condensation under the perspex, BTW - couldn't wait till everything had dried out properly before taking a picture. Yellowing was significantly worse even than depicted in the photo, and I even had to wash the motherboard. Edited February 1, 2013 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelmischief Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 How does one WASH a motherboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 How does one WASH a motherboard? With water, in the sink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akator Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 With water, in the sink. Dishwashers without detergent and the "heated dry cycle" off work very well. Use canned air to remove excess moisture from sockets and other nooks and crannies. Allow to air dry 48 hours before any attempt to reattach power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Dishwashers? This is North East UK... Just elbow grease. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) I know, I'll be in Amble for a week from 9th Feb. You will be able to spot me as I will be wearing a coat rather than just a T-shirt or vest. Edited February 3, 2013 by mimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I know, I'll be in Amble for a week from 9th Feb. Amble? Haven't heard that name since my mother used to sing at Amble Social Club. Quite a trek from South Shields. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Amble? Haven't heard that name since my mother used to sing at Amble Social Club. Quite a trek from South Shields. My wife's family originate from south shields, but moved south in the early 60s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 My wife's family originate from south shields, but moved south in the early 60s Wow - small world indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Knight Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Got a scabby looking but intact 800xl cheap and done the peroxide job - came out better than expected. Before and after I recently did a A400 and A800 which came out good also. I live in the north of the uk which rarely gets sun (too many clouds and rain ) so this is aimed for the indoor method. Heres what works for me My process is based around having 2 strip UV bulbs at 7W each, so.... 0. wash the chassis/case in the dishwasher - or get the liquid out if the missus has issues... - you may wish to avoid the drying process, but ive notice no problems with my own model with this. - now dry and mask any areas on A400/A800 that has the atari logo - the peroxide can deteriorate the paint by the time youve finished. use scotch/sellotape - as this tends to stick better than pvc or masking tape ive found 1. Place the chassis/case inside a white basin or plastic tub (i use those tubs found at hardware stores - usually white or semi transparent) 2. coat on 'peroxide cream' (12% volume) quite generously and try and avoid lumps (if re-using for the nth time). Use a creamer if you can spare one. 3. excess will come off if the cream is new but a thin coat is fine ok (as you will see). 4. use cling film and cover right over the cases and stick the ends of the film to the side of the basin/bin (try and ensure there is no gaps exposed as this will dry up the peroxide over a few hours otherwise.). My UV source is an electronics UV box for developing etched pcb boards - so my source is basically uv in a well strong box with a clear window. 5a - if the chassis is large, then the uv light needs to be higher up to make sure the light gets everything - this takes longer 5b - if its a disk drive enclosure or a spot that needs aggressive uv, then i place the box down on the cling film (CAUTION this is done at your own risk - mine has a limited heat due to the construction - you may wish to place on 4 blocks and have 2 inches above the file as its safer) 6 As long as youve made sure the air is limited to the peroxide you can switch on the UV and leave for 6-8 hours and inspect - sometime i top up the peroxide, but ive found this isnt always necessary. 7. After 24hrs (A400 and A800_ machines - you should wash the peroxide out (with the shower) and check - i found that my sections of my 800 brightened at completely different rates - if one is 'done' then remove - re apply as before if not done as above and check after 12 hours (or less if it looks close). 8. XL series is easier to detect as it goes almost white and over whitening is very forgiving. My 800xl was a stubborn B*st'rd so i have to put the UV close to the sections individually, but got rid of the spots in 6 hours extra. Pointers: a) i dont see the need to use oxy as peroxide does the job and you can reuse it if no oxy is mixed. b) cream gives off less fumes and evaporates slower than liquid. less splashy and safer. c) by god - use rubber gloves - preferably the ones the missus uses for dishes - the amount of times ive nipped in to check and 2 minutes later my hands/fingers are stinging dues to haste cannot be counted. d) wear glasses when prepping and likely to be heavily involved - i can t imagine the pain if this stuff gets just a slight splash in the eyes. e) have the cling film/ towels/ stirrers / cups anything all ready before you start - the stuff gets everywhere when you have to improvise. f) be aware of the safety on the uv bulbs - if its a low cost bunch of bulbs hanging over things then check the heat given as raw light will generate more heat than a control box type that i use. g) if the other half / wife / live in friend is at home during the day , then maybe ask them to check that nothings fallen down or check for hazards this allows you to use the time during the day go to work / down to the pub whatever and not supervise the house, so to speak. h) be careful when doing this with keys or dark items as it will lighten but may look 2 tone if not done properly - i use baking soda for lighten up whites on keys as this works and only takes a few minutes Disclaimer bit: These are guidelines and i wont be responsible etc for anything going wrong with anyone that trys this as this is what works for me and may not be the best depending on your own setup. Still to do an XE model but i expect this to be similar to the A800/A400 types to be used with caution to prevent whites appearing. Richard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Nice Job! Totally agree about the XLs being more "forgiving" - you can just blitz them and not worry too much. Is that an Alps keyboard on the 800XL, BTW? Looks very like low-profile keys on the one I picked up the other month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Knight Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Nice Job! Totally agree about the XLs being more "forgiving" - you can just blitz them and not worry too much. Is that an Alps keyboard on the 800XL, BTW? Looks very like low-profile keys on the one I picked up the other month. Yes - its an Alp's - did a write up on the 'ebay thread' on this. got it for £20 on ebay the other week. see thread> http://www.atariage..../page__st__3350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 So you did - I should have read that more carefully first. Anyway - I love the way those Alps keys sit nice and low. I didn't even feature the Alps 800XL I bought here because all I did with it last week was wash the case in the sink and it's pristine... not a spot of yellow anywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Knight Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 So you did - I should have read that more carefully first. Anyway - I love the way those Alps keys sit nice and low. I didn't even feature the Alps 800XL I bought here because all I did with it last week was wash the case in the sink and it's pristine... not a spot of yellow anywhere! My first A400 was like that (some months ago)- my first attempt to brite and it didnt need it, I was actually fuming that it was fine already as i wanted to experiment with doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 As long as there's nothing which is allergic to moisture in there and the keyboard is thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly) dry before it's plugged in again, it should be safe to just paint the whole keyboard in peroxide (that's what I do with Atari XE keyboards). After a quick look at a CoCo keyboard being dismantled on YouTube, I'd say remove the back plate, mylar and rubber cups and process what's left as a whole. You leave the keyboard together???? Good grief, I've been prying he keycaps off one-by-one, painting them one-by one, washing them one-by-one, letting them dry, and putting them back on one-by one!!! All this time!!! And when working on an ST (so many keys) it's an all-day project!!!! PLEASE detail-explain how you do this. You take the 1000 little tiny screws off the backplate and remove the mylar (etc) on the XE? You just get the whole thing wet rinsing the peroxide off? I would have thought water would seep in around the backplate (or whatever else) and never leave. I will be much more eager to try this again, if I can do it like you do it. Please, DO TELL!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Yep, remove all the screws, take out silicone cups.and mylar, put keyboard in dishwasher (remembering to remove before dry cycle) treat with peroxide, another wash in dishwasher, rebuild. I have not been brave enough to put the whole keyboard in the dishwasher yet, but may do in the future _ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh Wizard Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Has any one had these problems listed at this computer site with retro bright www.classic-computers.org.nz/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=894 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Darn, after seeing that, it looks like the magic that restored our Ataris was only temporary. At least it felt like 1985 again, for a little while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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