Omega-TI Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) Speaking of the RESET button; what IS the recommended "method"? ... I've only seen a reset based on a momentary contact switch with a cap in parallel (essentially moving the cartridge reset feature into the console). Is there a better solution... I was wondering this as well, so I went to the TI equivlent of the "Oracle at Delphi": http://www.mainbyte.com/ti99/upgrades.asp and was shocked that the Oracle had no answer for me. Does anyone have a .PDF, schematic, link, photo or even a lowly text file? I KNOW THERE IS ONE OUT THERE... I had it, but somehow misplaced it. I believe it had direct solder taps to the main CPU. It was the one I intended to use, if someone out there has it, please post it! Edited September 22, 2013 by Kevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jens-eike Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) Try Thierry's site: http://nouspikel.group.shef.ac.uk/ti99/tim9904.htm describes the Reset circuit. Your momentary contact should short the 150k resistor. Edited September 22, 2013 by jens-eike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CantStopClicking Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) That doesn't seem to work very well on my system. It locks up about 50% of the time when I push the button, and requires either me hitting the button another three four five or more times and/or just turning off the system and back on. Is that normal behaviour or is it me? What I did was cut the reset trace on the GROM "L" adapter and wired in a mometary switch with a .01uf (if I remember right, maybe pF) capacitor in parallel. Straight from Micropendium. I find it less than optimal, actually dismal... -Dano Edited September 22, 2013 by CantStopClicking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc.hull Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 Hello Dan. A reset switch can be made out of a MC switch and some ribbon wire. Just hook it on to the reset pin of the 9900 or any trace connected to it on the mobo. Other end just goes to ground. Don't use any caps or resistors. The line all ready has a pull up on it and stray clocks are not a problem for a reset ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 While we are giving due credit for a quality product, we should mention the nice instructions which obviously took some amount of time to put together. Printed on card-stock, no less. (File removed in lieu of Matt's original in the next post.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Here is the original "install instructions" PDF if anyone wants/needs it. It is actually very minimal compared to what I wanted to include, i.e. step by step instructions with links to online videos and such. I really like the way iFixit.com does their instructions, but I just don't have the time for something of that caliber right now. Anyway, I'm glad you are happy with the F18A and I appreciate the feedback! f18a_install_insert.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLM78 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Great instructions - this is all getting me very excited to get an F18A, but that won't likely happen until next year - (so I hope you keep 'em coming Matthew ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstimson Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I still have the release version of the F18A, sadly my free time has prevented me from being able to spend much quality time with my TI. That being said, the one bug in my version is the sprite bug. What are my options for getting the latest update? Ship it back to you for updating? BTW, is there a list of known cartridges that are affected by this bug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I have an update service on my website for basically the cost of shipping, from Canada it might be prohibitive. I am working on an in-system software update that will work on a 99/4A computer with a CF7 device or similar. AFAIK the sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is probably why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). A list of affected carts? Not that I know of. However the only games that have been reported are the two XB games that use CALL COINC(ALL), i.e. PONGO and ... I can't remember the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aftyde Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Damn - missed it! I was in the hospital! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Parts came in yesterday, I expect to be making more sometime this weekend (Sept 28/29). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slinkeey Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 (edited) Got mine installed.. I took pictures after I was done though.. EEK.. Edited September 29, 2013 by slinkeey 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Looks nice! I never thought to use the back plate and just cut a larger rectangular hole. Much easier than the holes I have been cutting. Good job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) Looks nice! I never thought to use the back plate and just cut a larger rectangular hole. Much easier than the holes I have been cutting. Good job. I agree he did a great job. When I get around to doing mine I'll be using a Dremel tool to cut the hole. As for the included plate, I'm going to use it as well, but I think I'll paint it black first. I love the way everyone is including photos! Edited September 29, 2013 by Kevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 I agree he did a great job. When I get around to doing mine I'll be using a Dremel tool to cut the hole. As for the included plate, I'm going to use it as well, but I think I'll paint it black first. I love the way everyone is including photos! When I have time next week, I am going to work on how I can cut out an appropriate sized hole and mount it via the nuts to the plastic. Right now I just have it run out the joystick port as the cable is the perfect width for doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slinkeey Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) Yeah the hardest part was getting it back in there... I notched the RF shield along the back of the computer just a little wider than the notch I took out of the back plastic. I was tempted to notch it into the top of the shield to make things easier, but I wanted to remove as little as possible. Maybe with an F18A, RF is not as much as an issue. I figured I can cut two straight lines in the metal backplate much easier than trying to route the plastic into the shape of a DB15 connector. Also, the plastic is thick so more of the port is able to extrude through the metal. Edited September 29, 2013 by slinkeey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 I was tempted to notch it into the top to make thing easier, but I wanted to remove as little as possible. I figured I can cut two straight lines in metal much easier than trying to route the plastic.. Plus the plastic is thick so more of the port is able to extrude through the metal. Good point! I'm curious, did you take any photos of the internals to show the clearances before you buttoned the old gal back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slinkeey Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 I did not.. I wish that I did. I can tell you this.. I had to use a needle-nose to grab the DB15 and then use a little socket to put the screw in and attach to the backplate. I would not be able to close it up with it assembled completely to the case, unless put a huge cutout in the shield. So I closed it up unassembled and used a a needle-nose to fetch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 I did not.. I wish that I did. I think I'll probably end up mounting mine higher up (in the empty area) where the venting is. I know that's probably not as good, or as strong as the area you used, but I'm sure it will be a heck of a lot easier! I'll take some internal shots to document what I do when the time comes. Hopefully I get around to it in the next couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slinkeey Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 I was almost going to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willsy Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Have a look here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/197252-fitting-the-f18a-and-an-amplifier-into-the-4a-console-ii/?hl=%2Baudio+%2Bamplifier&do=findComment&comment=2511770 Old thread but might be insightful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti99iuc Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) Got mine installed.. I took pictures after I was done though.. EEK.. i done it almost the same and created a guide on my website if you like to see (you can click on the correct language flag in the up-right of the screen): http://www.ti99iuc.it/new/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57%3Aguida-passo-passo-montare-f18a-nel-ti99&catid=18%3Amodandtuneed&Itemid=2 i coverd the metal part with black tape... ... about the audio i made a cable from the original audio/video output (it is for the European version): i found this info on this website: http://gtello.pagesperso-orange.fr/ti99_e.htm Edited September 30, 2013 by ti99userclub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 http://www.ti99iuc.it/new/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57%3Aguida-passo-passo-montare-f18a-nel-ti99&catid=18%3Amodandtuneed&Itemid=2 Nice link! It shows a lot of detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Got mine installed.. I took pictures after I was done though.. EEK.. I was so impressed with your method of installing the plate, I ripped off your idea! Thanks! I also decided to take an internal shot before I closed it up. Loot at the difference in component size and density. That's about 30 years worth of electronics evolution in one image. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Nice install! The crazy thing is, the F18A is not even small or dense compared to current technology. I chose SMT components that I would be able to hand assemble, which meant I did not go much below 0805 (.8mm X .5mm), and only 0602 (.6mm X .2mm) in a few places. There are components available now down to 0201 in size!!! If the F18A had been designed to be manufactured by machines and sell in the thousands, then it could probably be reduced to the size of the original 40-pin VDP. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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