.dsk Image

[RXB]

Ok how the hell do you guys work with these .dsk Images?

 

Using Ti99Dir do I have to convert to files, edit them them convert them back to .dsk Image?

 

As the sounds like a hell of a lot more work than just using files to edit then run them.

 

I am attempting to use MESS and so far it is one hell of a lot of work to get anything done.

 

Any tips would help please.

 

Also as I have never used .RPK files they seem impossible to look at the contents?

[Gazoo]

Ok how the hell do you guys work with these .dsk Images?

 

Using Ti99Dir do I have to convert to files, edit them them convert them back to .dsk Image?

 

As the sounds like a hell of a lot more work than just using files to edit then run them.

 

I am attempting to use MESS and so far it is one hell of a lot of work to get anything done.

 

Any tips would help please.

 

Also as I have never used .RPK files they seem impossible to look at the contents?

 

.dsk images are used as-is. Click on 'devices' in the MESS menu bar, you will see 4 floppy disk selections in the drop down menu for drives 1 through 4 counted from the top down. Move the mouse to one of them and a menu appears to the right. Select 'mount' and choose the .dsk file you want to work in that drive. Just like inserting a floppy. No converting necessary, simple as pie.

 

.rpk files are zip files. Use Winzip to work with them or change the extension to .zip to use the compressed folder option, then change the extension back when you're done.

 

Gazoo

[+arcadeshopper]

Ok how the hell do you guys work with these .dsk Images?

 

Using Ti99Dir do I have to convert to files, edit them them convert them back to .dsk Image?

 

As the sounds like a hell of a lot more work than just using files to edit then run them.

 

I am attempting to use MESS and so far it is one hell of a lot of work to get anything done.

 

Any tips would help please.

 

Also as I have never used .RPK files they seem impossible to look at the contents?

 

RPK is just a ZIP, rename or add a .zip to the end to use regular tools

 

I use tidir to move files in and out of dsk files.. easiest.. it will also open archives in their natural state and or in dsk images of v9t9 OR pc99 format.. it's basically a midnight commander interface, pretty much the old school char based file manager tool. You don't have to convert to anything unless you need too for another task, tidir will handle files in any state.

 

Greg

[+mizapf]

You should not unzip the RPK unless you really want to change something inside. It's just like the OpenDocument (odt) or Microsoft's OOXML files (docx) which are ZIP containers as well. I believe if I called them *.zip instead of *.rpk, everyone starts to unzip them first and asks later.

 

Anything concerning the dsk images can also be done easily with TIImageTool (create, copy files from/into them, rename, view archiver files, ...)

[RXB]

 

RPK is just a ZIP, rename or add a .zip to the end to use regular tools

 

I use tidir to move files in and out of dsk files.. easiest.. it will also open archives in their natural state and or in dsk images of v9t9 OR pc99 format.. it's basically a midnight commander interface, pretty much the old school char based file manager tool. You don't have to convert to anything unless you need too for another task, tidir will handle files in any state.

 

Greg

Ok thanks.

I gave up Archives on the TI when I moved to a Emulator as a 1TB drive on a PC/MAC could never ever be filled by TI stuff.

 

By the way what is the key for getting out of full screen mode in MESS?

[RobertLM78]

Ok thanks.

I gave up Archives on the TI when I moved to a Emulator as a 1TB drive on a PC/MAC could never ever be filled by TI stuff.

Archives are still handy if you need to do a serial transfer of numerous files between the PC and TI - only one file to send over Xmodem than several .

 

By the way what is the key for getting out of full screen mode in MESS?

Left Alt + Enter - Michael just told me how to do that the other day .

[+OLD CS1]

Left Alt + Enter - Michael just told me how to do that the other day .

 

This, by the way, is the standard full-screen key stroke in Windows for almost all applications which support full-screen mode.

[RobertLM78]

 

This, by the way, is the standard full-screen key stroke in Windows for almost all applications which support full-screen mode.

I'll remember that - I run Linux Mint, so toggling between window and full-screen changes from application to application. For example, Virtualbox uses Right Alt ('Host') + F to toggle to full-screen, while Oolite uses F12.

[RXB]

Archives are still handy if you need to do a serial transfer of numerous files between the PC and TI - only one file to send over Xmodem than several .

 

Left Alt + Enter - Michael just told me how to do that the other day .

Thanks but my TI is in the Attic as I have limited space in computer room and wife screams about the Electricity the TI uses vs my Mac Pro that sips power.

 

Thanks Left Alt+Enter works on Windows too. Yeah cool.

[+OLD CS1]

Thanks but my TI is in the Attic as I have limited space in computer room and wife screams about the Electricity the TI uses vs my Mac Pro that sips power.

 

Then you shall be very thankful for the project which I hope to present within the next few months

[RobertLM78]

 

Then you shall be very thankful for the project which I hope to present within the next few months

Do I smell a energy-saving project coming along?

[slinkeey]

Are you working on a switching power supply?

 

I doubt that the TI is really that much of a power hog. I guess if you have a boatlload of spinning disk, that might be the hog.

Edited June 16, 2014 by slinkeey

[+OLD CS1]

Something like that. The TI power supply draws a surprising amount of power on its own (it is a straight-up AC/AC transformer, after-all.) I had some bad math earlier so I had to yank the post, but in short, the PSU draws about 9W idle on its own and 17W to 21W when the console is turned on. (Now I question those figures, too.) I measured using my UPS monitoring, but I think now my notes are bad since it has been so long since I measured and I cannot decipher my own cryptic notes.) (Yeah, I am going to run a new measuring run tonight and fix this.)

 

We can reduce that dramatically and not be bitched at by our future smart houses. Even though one of my friends here has presented me with the "why" question I say, "why is he climbing the mountain?"

 

Anyway, I have not had a chance to work on more than just a design as my original project funds were eaten by another project which never got completed. Bah. Maybe next weekend I will FINALLY watch the ChipQuik videos and get going.

[Ed in SoDak]

Get a Kill-A-Watt and have hard figures on power consumption to either flaunt or deny, as the case may be. In your case, Rich, if you buy one, it may be wise to not disclose the means you used to obtain the measurement, as it's bound to later be used against you in some way if SWMBO gets ahold of it and starts checking all your toys. But it may help settle an argument in your favor. I'll bet she's the one watching TV a lot, for example, with a closet full of shoes to boot. All said with tongue firmly in cheek, my wife and I are both avid consumers and share the pain when the bill comes due.

 

Of course, the cost of the Kill-A-Watt might be equivalent of several months of running a full TI system.

 

On the plus side, it'll monitor actual usage of all sorts of typical household electric appliances or devices. I've been wanting one myself, since we recently went to demand metering during daily peak periods. That charge alone can add $30 or more to the monthly electricity bill. It's actually the 240-v big-demand things like cooking, driers, water heaters and heat/air that really bump up demand, and I don't think there's one of these that can check those items, but it'll check the 'fridge, window AC, lights, TV/stereo and computers 'n' such.

 

 

Edited June 16, 2014 by Ed in SoDak

[+InsaneMultitasker]

Get a Kill-A-Watt and have hard figures on power consumption to either flaunt or deny, as the case may be. In your case, Rich, if you buy one, it may be wise to not disclose the means you used to obtain the measurement, as it's bound to later be used against you in some way if SWMBO gets ahold of it and starts checking all your toys. But it may help settle an argument in your favor. I'll bet she's the one watching TV a lot, for example, with a closet full of shoes to boot. All said with tongue firmly in cheek, my wife and I are both avid consumers and share the pain when the bill comes due.

 

Of course, the cost of the Kill-A-Watt might be equivalent of several months of running a full TI system.

 

On the plus side, it'll monitor actual usage of all sorts of typical household electric appliances or devices. I've been wanting one myself, since we recently went to demand metering during daily peak periods. That charge alone can add $30 or more to the monthly electricity bill. It's actually the 240-v big-demand things like cooking, driers, water heaters and heat/air that really bump up demand, and I don't think there's one of these that can check those items, but it'll check the 'fridge, window AC, lights, TV/stereo and computers 'n' such.

 

 

I bought one a few years ago and was able to easily trim 12-15% consumption from simple "common sense" awareness. For example, my home file server which ran 24x7 gobbled much more electricity than I realized. Replacing that beast with a less power-hungry device, hibernating (or putting to sleep) PCs and the server, and not running my Geneve / TI system 24x7 with its CRT monitor and MFM drives all together made a nice dent in the bill. There were a few appliances like my little electric space heater (1500W!) that I stopped using in favor of other less costly options.

[Ed in SoDak]

And there ya go! Do you happen to recall what your TI/Geneve setup with monitor and drives consumed? The new flat panels might be a better option than some older monitors. They have quite a few input options to boot.

 

-Ed

[RXB]

Not currently running my TI today as in storage but did not use that much power.

Ran a PBox with a SCSI card and 7 SCSI drives, (2 in Pbox and rest in a secondary tower with 4 3.5 floppy drives)

My G5 PPC on the other hand would often go into all 9 fans on mode and sounded like a aircraft taking off from a Aircraft Carrier.

If the computer room door was shut and warmed up the G5 it only got worse. Fried a high end Video card that way.

Totally Apple fault as they defaulted to a bad set up each update so I had to fix this often manually.

[+OLD CS1]

My Commodore 128D system with all its drives and printer dims the lights when I turn it on. I used to attribute that to the CRT monitor but it still does it with the LCD.

[RXB]

My Commodore 128D system with all its drives and printer dims the lights when I turn it on. I used to attribute that to the CRT monitor but it still does it with the LCD.

 

Sounds like bad wiring in the house. I used to have that issue also.

[+OLD CS1]

 

Sounds like bad wiring in the house. I used to have that issue also.

 

Could be. It has happened in every place I have lived, and even my SU1400RM2U UPS would indicate a high load. My guess is the initial current in-rush of turning on the master power switch has something to do with it.

 

This apartment I live in now is pretty special, though. You should see the neat light show that happens when my LaserJet 4050 is running. Having it fixed is above my pay grade: the landlord is supposedly an electrician.

[TI-Sissy]

 

Could be. It has happened in every place I have lived, and even my SU1400RM2U UPS would indicate a high load. My guess is the initial current in-rush of turning on the master power switch has something to do with it.

 

This apartment I live in now is pretty special, though. You should see the neat light show that happens when my LaserJet 4050 is running. Having it fixed is above my pay grade: the landlord is supposedly an electrician.

plug it in to a ups. the light show should stop.

[+acadiel]

My Commodore 128D system with all its drives and printer dims the lights when I turn it on. I used to attribute that to the CRT monitor but it still does it with the LCD.

 

Is it a brief dim or a dim the whole time the 128D and CRT was on? If it's just when you turn it on, that's not a big deal, that's called "inrush current". Many appliances do that. In fact, even some circuit breakers are rated above their 15A/20A for so many milliseconds for this very reason (AC kicking on, humidifier kicking on, etc.)

 

If it's a long term dim, yeah, I'd get your wiring checked out. Probably not related, but here's a good example of strange crap happening: When I was probably 8 or so, my family lived in a rental house for about six months that had an outlet that didn't work in a bedroom. When you plugged something into it, the more power it tried to draw, the brighter the ceiling light in the room would get. Whatever you plugged in wouldn't work, either. That was probably a fire waiting to happen.

[slinkeey]

 

Having it fixed is above my pay grade: the landlord is supposedly an electrician.

 

This reminds me of something. Sorry to go off topic. My brother's utility bill was through the roof when he lived in an apartment.. So we unplugged everything in his dwelling and turnen down his hot water heater. Well, the meter was still spinning. So we opened up the door on his circuit panel and there were about 4 240v 2-Pole breakers all unmarked. Anyways he shut these all down, and the meter stopped. He wasn't missing anything. His electric range & hot water was still energized.

 

Long story short, His electricity bill went down, but he was turning them off repeativly after the landlord would turn them back on because people were complaining that they didn't have hot water for days on end. He eventually got evicted for that.

[slinkeey]

 

Is it a brief dim or a dim the whole time the 128D and CRT was on? If it's just when you turn it on, that's not a big deal, that's called "inrush current". Many appliances do that. In fact, even some circuit breakers are rated above their 15A/20A for so many milliseconds for this very reason (AC kicking on, humidifier kicking on, etc.)

 

If it's a long term dim, yeah, I'd get your wiring checked out. Probably not related, but here's a good example of strange crap happening: When I was probably 8 or so, my family lived in a rental house for about six months that had an outlet that didn't work in a bedroom. When you plugged something into it, the more power it tried to draw, the brighter the ceiling light in the room would get. Whatever you plugged in wouldn't work, either. That was probably a fire waiting to happen.

 

Did the ceiling light only work when something was plugged in, like it was wired in series?

[+acadiel]

 

Did the ceiling light only work when something was plugged in, like it was wired in series?

 

Nope. Worked fine with the light switch. Outlet was deader than a doornail when light was on via the switch. Used a meter on it with a TV plugged into the outlet (with the light off), and was only getting a fraction of the voltage - 60-80V once the TV was trying to draw the current. (Dad wondered what the heck I was doing, since I was only 8. I did manage to shock myself on another couple occasions, but I learned really quickly what to do and not to do. i.e. 1 - Don't remove a resistor from a neon light. It was there for a reason. and 2 - When thinking you have the neutral leg of a outlet, verify with the ground to make double sure. <grin>)