Wanted: the ceramic IC chip for Sears Telegames Speedway

[chas10e]

....mine broke & I'm still kicking myself over it

 

[Osgeld]

before anyone suggests it, chas sent it to me and I tried gluing it back together and jumpering the traces back, and even getting close to it with a soldering iron caused whatever material they used for traces would either vaporise or flake off

[+5-11under]

Perhaps some liquid silver (or nickel) might work, if you can get the lines thin enough.

[CPUWIZ]

I think it could be repaired as well. I am a little surprised to see a surface mount capacitor.

 

Scrape open the traces and use a circuit pen or use solder paste and a hot-air re-work station.

[Keatah]

I've repaired these before.

 

Hopefully the previous "technician" didn't damage it much more that what is shown. Anyone that knows anything about these would not have attempted soldering without proper preparation.

 

How much shorter are the traces now?

Edited June 11, 2015 by Keatah

[Keatah]

I think it could be repaired as well. I am a little surprised to see a surface mount capacitor. Scrape open the traces and use a circuit pen or use solder paste and a hot-air re-work station.

 

Hot air rework can melt other traces. If you go that route you need to protect the adjacent traces. And absorb 'stray' heat.

 

 

Perhaps some liquid silver (or nickel) might work, if you can get the lines thin enough.

Yup. You can make a mask to help ensure they're "on track".

You can vary the mixture tin, silver, lead, and nickel to ensure you get the right amount of resistance per mm if that is critical. In video games of this vintage it is not likely, but in other applications it can be critical.

[Osgeld]

Perhaps some liquid silver (or nickel) might work, if you can get the lines thin enough.

 

 

I think it could be repaired as well. I am a little surprised to see a surface mount capacitor.

 

Scrape open the traces and use a circuit pen or use solder paste and a hot-air re-work station.

 

problem I had adding a solution to it was the scale, these traces are 1/8th mm wide, and while typically that is no problem for copper what is on there is essentially 30 something year old paint and just gentile cleaning started breaking traces up, just the slighest wisp with a knife would remove them let alone scraping at them, that's what I did to remove the broken middle sections in the first place ... working under a high powered stereo microscope.

 

as far as Keatah's pointless and useless comments, I refuse to entertain him in the slightest as all he does is talk crap but has the technical chops of a 12 year old with an electronics lab... I did rework for a living, and do design now, he writes 6 page rants about how it took him over an hour to install a USB printer.

 

if the part can not be sourced, which I find somewhat hard to believe since it was a generic, but not quite common "pong on a chip" is for me to remove the die's flip them and solder them BGA style on a new PCB, which is being a pain in the ass, though I have removed the expoy blob from the die's without damage

Edited June 11, 2015 by Osgeld

[CPUWIZ]

If you go that route you need to protect the adjacent traces. And absorb 'stray' heat.

 

Or deflect it.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=pd_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y09ANWV2N1HA33GJ86X

[CPUWIZ]

 

 

 

problem I had adding a solution to it was the scale, these traces are 1/8th mm wide, and while typically that is no problem for copper what is on there is essentially 30 something year old paint and just gentile cleaning started breaking traces up, just the slighest wisp with a knife would remove them let alone scraping at them, that's what I did to remove the broken middle sections in the first place ... working under a high powered stereo microscope.

 

as far as Keatah's pointless and useless comments, I refuse to entertain him in the slightest as all he does is talk crap but has the technical chops of a 12 year old with an electronics lab... I did rework for a living, and do design now.

 

if the part can not be sourced, which I find somewhat hard to believe since it was a generic, but not quite common "pong on a chip" is for me to remove the die's flip them and solder them BGA style on a new PCB, which is being a pain in the ass, though I have removed the expoy blob from the die's without damage

 

That is pretty small, I guess they got so brittle because they sit on ceramic. I think before I would pain myself with BGA, I would just buy another one, possibly incomplete from ebay.

 

"working under a high powered stereo microscope."

 

I need one of those, I am getting old. LOL

[Osgeld]

the chip is just under a inch wide and the adhesive would remove traces, we are not dealing with copper

[CPUWIZ]

the chip is just under a inch wide and the adhesive would remove traces, we are not dealing with copper

 

Yes, I read that in your next post. I wouldn't bother with it and just buy a "dead" unit from ebay.

[Osgeld]

its almost a challenge to me now, but in the meantime its not helping chas out hince the OP trying to find one

[Keatah]

Osgeld has no idea what he's talking about. And proved it by not effecting a repair, and further shortening the traces. If he did he would have done it right the first time. And we're nowhere near needing to remove the die. Where's the face palm icon when I need one?

 

As for my "rants", I like them, they're fun. If you don't like them then use the ignore feature.

[Keatah]

its almost a challenge to me now, but in the meantime its not helping chas out hince the OP trying to find one

 

Ha! ..at the customer's expense!

[Osgeld]

chas is a friend not a customer

 

and as for your advise instead of trying to start a flame war why dont you give some, if you had any I assume would have been good enough to share you wisdom

Edited June 11, 2015 by Osgeld

[CPUWIZ]

chas is a friend not a customer

 

and as for your advise instead of trying to start a flame war why dont you give some

 

He does customer service, so he automatically assumes people are customers.

 

And if you guys want to play around with a soldering dickwaving contest, please do it via PM.

 

Cheers.

[chas10e]

 

Yes, I read that in your next post. I wouldn't bother with it and just buy a "dead" unit from ebay.

this was listed as non-working & only worked on 3'rd TV I tried

 

when I did get a good picture the race car game didn't work properly

 

I lifted chip slightly & re-seat it & race car game only worked for a moment ( letting me know I was heading in right direction)

 

I fully removed chip & bent some of the pins , I have some super long needle nose I was going to reallign them with but couldn't find them

 

I grabbed the red handled pair you see in pic, just to straighten pins , when I reseated one side a pin folded to to remove that side again I grabbed wrong tool ( the red pliers ) & *snap*

 

!@#%$@^

 

 

chas is a friend not a customer

 

& Osgeld is still on my friend list

 

I do appreciate all the attention this thread is getting & hope some good comes of it (how to deal with these brittle units)

 

I'm looking for a replacement because this unit was almost NIB & like sharing these clunky old things with my younger nephews

[Keatah]

All my repairs are done to dod mil-spec in the finest forensics lab. Anyone I do any work for is a customer, whether it be fixing the wires on the neighbor's kids' PowerWheels or extracting data from a smashed SD card.

 

I'm going to go play with my Lafayette 10-in-1 project kit now. The very same one I started learning electronics on back in the day! Reminisce and bask in glow of Tempest on the over saturated "game mode" I discovered on the wife's LCD set. Put on some Carpenters and Ambrosia, relax the night away.

[CPUWIZ]

[chas10e]

All my repairs are done to dod mil-spec in the finest forensics lab. Anyone I do any work for is a customer, whether it be fixing the wires on the neighbor's kids' PowerWheels or extracting data from a smashed SD card.

 

I'm going to go play with my Lafayette 10-in-1 project kit now. The very same one I started learning electronics on back in the day! Reminisce and bask in glow of Tempest on the over saturated "game mode" I discovered on the wife's LCD set. Put on some Carpenters and Ambrosia, relax the night away.

I just got an "Electronics Playground model EP-50" ... I prolly stick to that for awhile

[Keatah]

I lifted chip slightly & re-seat it & race car game only worked for a moment ( letting me know I was heading in right direction)

 

I fully removed chip & bent some of the pins , I have some super long needle nose I was going to reallign them with but couldn't find them

 

Yup. I would suspect, but need to confirm, that a pin-trace interface is loose. Could even be it just needed to be reseated. Who knows..

 

The tool to remove F-4301 resembles a tuning fork which slides under the part. On each of the 4 corners are screw jacks. You turn each one 1/2 turn, going back and forth between them till the chip is lifted out of the socket. We have just such a tool in our repository, direct from Omnetics. Sure you can rock and roll the chip out of the socket but that ends up breaking them sometimes.

 

We can get you that exact chip. It won't be cheap. Not by a longshot. Your best bet is to cruise fleabay to look for other units that have that same part. This was a fairly generic part back in the day, and several consoles were built around it.

[icemanxp300]

This is so easy to fix. All you have to do is this. You can thank me later

 

 

 

...

[Keatah]

I don't believe it! You took the time to get the traces goin' where they need to go.

[icemanxp300]

Man I have to shut off the pc my wife is blaming me laughing as the root cause of my toddler waking up on his 1st night being separated from his brother... twins diff. rooms.

[Keatah]

Did this chip ever get repaired or replaced?