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Atari 7800 Woody


GoldenWheels

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BTW guys just in case you wanted to know:

 

top strip is 2 1/4 high X 11 3/16 wide (cartridge cutout area is in dotted lines: starting from bottom of strip, it is 1 3/4 high X 4 wide--find your center on 11 3/16 and measure out from there either way is how I did it)

 

middle strip is 2 1/8 high X 11 3/16 wide.

 

front strip I applied and then cut to fit ON the 7800....there is a nice casing edge line on the bottom front which you can run your blade all the way across to keep it straight. I started with a 1 1/2 high X 11 3/16 and then cut it down (dotted line on drawing below), it ends up being almost 1 1/4 high when you've cut it but again I recommend you cut it on the Atari to get the best fit.

 

The 7800 makes it very easy to apply all the decals....everything is pretty flat. For people unused to applying decals, first cut each of your decals to fit. Cut your main piece to 11 3/16 wide, then cut your three pieces to height FROM that. Line your decals up with the contact paper still on, and tape them down with tape "hinges" on either side of the top of the piece. Flip the piece up using the "hinges", and make sure it will easily fall back down right where you want it. Lift up the piece, remove the backing, and just let the piece down slowly. Smooth it out with a squeegee or something soft...it won't take much.

 

IMG_1231.jpg

 

Note 1: obviously you can put the logo anywhere you want if you bother with it. I would say, it took some pressure to get it to stick on the curve there. It wanted to curl off last night and I had to re-press it. Maybe I just didn't use enough pressure to begin with.

 

Note 2: You MIGHT be able to get away with making all the pieces 11 1/4 wide instead of 11 3/16...this would make finding center for the cartridge slot easier, btw. But you'll be RIGHT on either edge of the angled "shoulders" of the 7800. I hedged my bets and cut it a little short.

Thanks for the pattern.

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No kidding. I'm still waiting for mine.

Hmm, sadly I checked eBay and the guy I ordered my metallic game logos from is no longer in business. Prolly due to copyright. I ordered one Raspbi Pi, two Segas, three Atari and three Nintendo. My parcel is presumably still in international mail. Good thing I ordered extras! :ponder:

Edited by stardust4ever
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Hmm, sadly I checked eBay and the guy I ordered my metallic game logos from is no longer in business. Prolly due to copyright. I ordered one Raspbi Pi, two Segas, three Atari and three Nintendo. My parcel is presumably still in international mail. Good thing I ordered extras! :ponder:

that bites! and I was going to order some too.............. :(

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I think I have his email. If anyone wants, I could ask him if he's still selling his logos through another site...

Here is the official website. I would recommend anyone still interested order from here to avoid eBay. Your welcome ;)

http://www.mateoproceo.com/index.php

 

Also he's based in Netherlands AND Poland. Might be the same guy. I'm not sure.

Edited by stardust4ever
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  • 1 year later...

I built some new friends for my Woody. Yes, that is a weird sentence.

 

Both sticks use short Zippy sticks. The stick on the left uses Sanwa OBSF 30 buttons, the stick on the right uses Happ long buttons. Boy what a difference between the two: the Sanwa buttons are SUPER sensitive, the Happ buttons VERY stiff.

 

Since I cannibalized 7800 sticks to make these (and never felt bad for one moment doing so), I took the topper from one of the Pro Line donors, cut it down, drilled it out, and hand-screwed it onto one of the sticks: it makes an excellent ball-top substitute and (I think) relates it more to the Atari family.

 

My thanks to AtariAgers Wyuli Wolf for his wiring diagram, and Shawn for sending me the necessary resistors, free with a cart purchase, just because I asked his expertise on what I needed. And my thanks to everyone here who always says "build it yourself, soldering is easy and it's fun". These are literally my first soldering projects since shop class in high school. I was very pleased with myself when they both worked the first time,and I likely would have never tried if not for the users here.

 

(I was SO pleased with the stick on the right actually, which was my first, that I took it back into the shop to drill the cord hole and "finish it off"...and drilled the cord hole on the FRONT of the case. So I bought a new case. :mad::D )

 

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I built some new friends for my Woody. Yes, that is a weird sentence.

 

Both sticks use short Zippy sticks. The stick on the left uses Sanwa OBSF 30 buttons, the stick on the right uses Happ long buttons. Boy what a difference between the two: the Sanwa buttons are SUPER sensitive, the Happ buttons VERY stiff.

Mind I ask what you used for the cases? Also if the stock Happ E-switches are too stiff, I recommend upgrading to 20g soft touch Zippy micros:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=346

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Mind I ask what you used for the cases? Also if the stock Happ E-switches are too stiff, I recommend upgrading to 20g soft touch Zippy micros:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=346

 

Of course not! Neither was as cheap as I wished, short one was $26, tall one was $17...

 

The shorter case (really like this one, tight fit for everything, but those front and back aluminum pieces are removable....makes them easy to work with, and easy to decorate):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Black-Plastic-Electronic-Project-Box-Enclosure-case-8-x-6-x-2-w-aluminum-end-/321995151515?hash=item4af868189b:g:soUAAOSw5dNWrpWa

 

Tall one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS-Black-Plastic-Project-Box-3-23-x-8-54-x-5-43-PB114F-/161207366128?hash=item2588b531f0:g:3RYAAOxydlFSv01v

 

 

I don't mind the stiff Happ buttons right now, but I am hoping they break in a bit. The Sanwas...omg I think I could blow hard on them and they might register. But they were what I could find to fit in that shorter case.

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Of course not! Neither was as cheap as I wished, short one was $26, tall one was $17...

 

The shorter case (really like this one, tight fit for everything, but those front and back aluminum pieces are removable....makes them easy to work with, and easy to decorate):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Black-Plastic-Electronic-Project-Box-Enclosure-case-8-x-6-x-2-w-aluminum-end-/321995151515?hash=item4af868189b:g:soUAAOSw5dNWrpWa

 

Tall one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS-Black-Plastic-Project-Box-3-23-x-8-54-x-5-43-PB114F-/161207366128?hash=item2588b531f0:g:3RYAAOxydlFSv01v

Yeah those are way pricier than a used cigar box. :P

 

 

I don't mind the stiff Happ buttons right now, but I am hoping they break in a bit. The Sanwas...omg I think I could blow hard on them and they might register. But they were what I could find to fit in that shorter case.

I find the 30mm Sanwas a bit twitchy if I try to rest my fingers on them. They register almost on the upper edge of travel. The Simitsus register near the bottom of travel, and I find them to be highly responsive without worrying about false presses if I rest my fingers on them. So Simitsu is better than Sanwa in that regard. Still no click operation.

 

Also get some 20g Zippy Micros for the plunger style buttons next time you place an order somewhere. Paradise Arcade Shop now sells them as option and Groovy Game Gear has offered them as stock option for years. The Happ/IL 28mm plungers are still my favorite button type when paired with soft touch Zippys. This controller has the soft touch Zippys in it:

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Beautiful sticks GoldenWheels! They're both gorgeous but I especially like the low profile case and the really clever design choice of using the top from an original Pro-Line joystick on the Zippy stick. I may have to try building something similar myself some day. :)

 

I also agree with Kosmic that Sanwa buttons are way too sensitive for my liking. If you're finding the Sanwas overly sensitive as well I'd suggest swapping them out for some Seimitsu PS-14-KN or PS-14-GN buttons instead, which are a nice happy medium between Sanwa and Happ buttons in terms of the downward force needed to activate them. For reference, here's a handy chart to give you an idea of the sizes and activation force required (tension) for a variety of popular arcade buttons:

 

mzAPCOR.jpg

 

 

I'll also second Kosmic's recommendation of Zippy 20g Soft Touch microswitches for the Happ buttons. They're very quiet and make a huge improvement in button tension and smoothness over the usual 50g E-Switch microswitches. :)

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Thanks guys, I do think I may replace them. I've gotten somewhat used to them now but for a second or three I actually though something wasn't working when first playing Joust, and that I had wired something wrong...turns out the buttons were simply registering FAR ahead of where I was expecting them too, putting my timing for any simultaneous directional+button push WAY OFF.

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