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Cx 2600 a woody power issues


Lewismug

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I recently pulled out an old 2600 I've had in my closet for years. Honestly can't remember if it's ever worked since I've had it. Plugged in the power supply and it sparked a little as I plugged into the console. It wouldn't power on. Pulled it apart and I think I have a short somewhere. If the positive is shorting to ground, where would be the first place to look? Voltage regulator? I know I have a short because the wires are getting hot when it's plugged in. I have a multimeter and many years experience soldering and working on electronics, just not familiar with these internals at all. Any assistance would be much appreciated!

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First of all Lewis, you NEVER plug the adapter into the wall FIRST and then the console, that's a darn good way to blow the unit entirely. ALWAYS plug the power adapter into the Atari FIRST and THEN the wall. Think of how it is done with devices that have permanently attached cords.....same basic principle

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Does the power supply get warm when the unit is plugged in? Also, just to eliminate the obvious (since you said you had it in your closet for years)... Is the channel select on the right channel? Did you try using deoxit/connector cleaner on the power and channel select switches, and working those switches several times?

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First of all Lewis, you NEVER plug the adapter into the wall FIRST and then the console, that's a darn good way to blow the unit entirely. ALWAYS plug the power adapter into the Atari FIRST and THEN the wall. Think of how it is done with devices that have permanently attached cords.....same basic principle

 

That's nonsense. I've done it both ways on and off for 35 years and never "blown the unit entirely." So long as the system's power switch is off and there are no internal shorts in the system, you're no more likely to damage anything either way. And if there ARE internal shorts in the system, it won't matter which way you pug it in.

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Actually Venkman while you yourself may not have seen it happen I have so on this we are going to have to just agree to disagree and I really do not appreciate your self righteous and condescending attitude. I live by the rule of thumb/axiom that is it far better to be safe than sorry. Not only that but I have family members that are certified experts in electronics and I would sooner follow their advice than anyone else's unless the legitimacy of that advice could be verified as sound

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Any kind of "spark" will damage anything electronic, it is common sense, why do you think when repairing computers people wear anti static bands? Any kind of an electrical discharge is harmful to circuitry and the spark seen when putting a live adapter into a unit is considered a discharge which is not safe. I took enough courses to know this, both in High School, Vo-Tech and also in college courses.

 

And let's not forget the fact I am a business owner since 2002 and before that I have been working on these systems not just as a hobby but to help people out who didn't want to pay the exhorbitant prices of the electronics places of the time, because I am sure we can ALL agree the prices they charge are tantamount to extortion

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Actually Venkman while you yourself may not have seen it happen I have so on this we are going to have to just agree to disagree and I really do not appreciate your self righteous and condescending attitude. I live by the rule of thumb that is it far better to be safe than sorry, not only that but I have family members that are certified experts in electronics and I would sooner follow their advice rather than that of someone far younger than myself

 

I have a bachelor's degree in engineering complete with an entire years' college level electrical engineering coursework, and you have no idea how old I am.

Edited by DrVenkman
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Ok guys, before you kill each other over advice, it's an Atari. Not a life. Not that big of a deal if it is fried. I actually agree with Venkman on this. If the power switch is off and everything is in working order, there is no difference in plugging into the wall or into the device first. You would get a spark either at the wall or at the device input if there is a short. I have spent my entire life plugging things into the wall first and then into the device. Never had an issue at all.

 

Now, on to my issue. It threw a spark due to a short somewhere on the board. I have replaced the vr with a known good one, and have tested the power plug off of the board. It tested good. The power supply hasn't gotten warm while plugged in because I haven't left it plugged in long enough. The spark and the wires getting warm was enough to alert me that something was wrong.

 

I have not cleaned the switches, however, the power switch construction forces it to break contact with the positive pin when in the off position. I have ohmed out the power switch while in the off position and there is no connection. It only shorts when the power switch is in the on position.

 

I appreciate the input you guys have given thus far. I don't feel as if anything anyone has said so far warrants an argument. As you said Rich, we can agree to disagree and we can leave it at that. Not everyone changes a tire the same way, but that doesn't mean either is wrong.

 

What would be the next stop on this journey? Rf modulator? If so, where is it located?

Edited by Lewismug
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Tell that to the 2600 my Dad had that was in perfect working order until my sister tripped over the power cord. I had to take it to someone to have it fixed and he said by her tripping over the console cordeven will the system OFF, when it ripped out of the socket it created a short in the system that caused system failure. And I got this from a noted professional, no offense Lewis but plugging a live adapter into a 2600 makes about as much sense as placing a radio on the edge of a wet bathtub while you are taking a bath, just WAITING for it to fall in

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I got all my electronics know how from my own stepfather who was a certified electrical engineer for the NAEC, and all of his advice and everything he taught me which I retained is 100% sound. He was the foremost authority in his field and therefore I trust his word

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That's fine Rich. Im glad you retained 100% of the info he passed on. I'm not going to get into a keyboard war with anyone over a difference of opinion on how to plug in an electrical cord. It's asinine. If you aren't going to help solve my problem, please stop posting. If you are going to help solve my problem, please do in a respectful way.

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I abhor people who are self-righteous and condescending, pure and simple. I at least offer my information in a diplomatic way, and I don;t resort to browbeating or brash insults to get my point across. To prove my point Lewis take a look at Venkman's reply on MY OWN thread and you tell me if he was not way out of line:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/182197-requesting-a-little-help-please/page-4

This will solidify my own position that he tries to make HIMSELF look big while making those he deems to be beneath him look small. I am a longer time member than he is here and I at least do not go around belittling people for my own personal pleasure.

Maybe by reading what he put on my own thread you will understand my distaste for him, and as such he will stay blocked by me so I don't have to see his pompus and pusillanimous responses to ANYTHING I may post because more often than not I can prove the advice I dispense to be SOUND and as a result of firsthand experience you do not GET from textbooks or a piece of paper wrapped in a red silk ribbon

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He has gone on a number of MY posts and put me down and judged me without knowing ANYTHING about me, I am the senior member here as my existence on this board PREDATES his as I was a member of the original site and board called Atari Nexus in 1998 prior to the change in name to AtariAge straight through to now, so I think I know of what I speak, I am not just some run-of-the-mill fly-by-nite here

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What is the preferred method of testing the rf modulator?

 

The RF modulator is hard to test - it's basically a sealed unit; I mean you can open them up but it's probably easier if you don't know RF circuit design to just pull it and replace it - and what detailed RF theory I learned I forgot decades ago. You can check the RF board for bad solder joints where it meets the main board - it's the little PCB sticking out of the shielded component that meets the board perpendicularly. There's a couple variants here - some have more connections than others but you can't miss it to look at it.

 

That said, I don't think it's likely that it's the cause of your initial short. I would think that would be around the power jack or voltage regulator - any broken traces or singed/leaking components on the board anywhere? Have you removed the RF shield in the center of the board around the IC's?

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