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Atari 800 won't power up


darthkur

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I usually use my 800xl but a bunch of games won't work on an XL and only will on an original 800. So I pulled it out of hiding and plugged it in...........nothing. No light, not even a flicker on the screen. I made sure the cartridge door was down and even sanded both the power input and the plug that goes into it, since it did look a bit grimy. I even checked to see if the ROM pack leads were clean, which they were. What are the main culprits in this situation and how to check? This is very depressing. :?

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Check the power supply first using a multimeter set to measure AC. Output at the plug end to the Atari should be about 10.7 volts AC under no load.

The 400/800 power supplies have a glass fuse inside that can blow and disable the output line. I think some have screws and can be opened for inspection. Others must be cut open.

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Adapter appears to be bad... although it's curious that you get a reading when it's not plugged in.

 

Are the batteries in the multimeter known good? Mine has crazy readings with a low battery...

Edited by R.Cade
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You get a reading because of that transmission tower across town. The transformer inside the adapter acts as an antenna and "generates" small amounts of power on the order of microwatts or nanowatts.

 

The village chiropractor likes to touch us with these same probes and then sell us vitamins based on the readings. He goes through this whole ritual of looking through books and charts and recording readings from his Fluke 87 DMM. He tends to sell us fish oil, or B-vitamins in the winter and C & D in the summer.

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Alright. Fresh battery in.

 

 

post-10357-0-47488400-1460665439_thumb.jpg post-10357-0-83528200-1460665447_thumb.jpg

 

Not plugged in.

 

 

 

post-10357-0-24926800-1460665455_thumb.jpg post-10357-0-59897100-1460665462_thumb.jpg

 

 

Plugged in. Even though you can't see in the final picture both leads are connected and I'm getting a "very metal" reading of 6.66. So since this isn't getting around the 9 volts that it's supposed is it safe to say that is why the 800 will not come on?

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I've also seen a lot of sellers on ebay listing the model CO 17945 that came with the 1050 drives as working with the 800, which I do have an extra of since I have multiple drives. The ratings area lot higher on those, 50W and 31VA versus 18.5W and 15.3VA on the CO 14319 that I have been using with the 800. Is it actually safe to use that other model?

 

 

 

post-10357-0-37883600-1460668865_thumb.jpg

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I've also seen a lot of sellers on ebay listing the model CO 17945 that came with the 1050 drives as working with the 800, which I do have an extra of since I have multiple drives. The ratings area lot higher on those, 50W and 31VA versus 18.5W and 15.3VA on the CO 14319 that I have been using with the 800. Is it actually safe to use that other model?

 

 

 

For AC supplies...

Same voltage but more current is fine as the unit being powered will only draw as much current as it requires.

More voltage and same current = more power dissipation in the internal voltage regulation circuits of the unit being powered so not a good idea.

Same voltage and less current = more power dissipation in the power unit and less output voltage due to increased losses in the transformer so also not a good idea.

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For AC supplies...

Same voltage but more current is fine as the unit being powered will only draw as much current as it requires.

More voltage and same current = more power dissipation in the internal voltage regulation circuits of the unit being powered so not a good idea.

Same voltage and less current = more power dissipation in the power unit and less output voltage due to increased losses in the transformer so also not a good idea.

 

 

Thanks for explaining this. This will relieve a lot of stress and uncertainty when future, similar events occur. ;-)

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