iKarith Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Maybe someone with an electronics background can comment... Is switching the common an acceptable way to do a power switch for this setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Right now mine is being switched by a smart power strip. Plan on hooking up one of those power cord switches when it comes in from China, though. I'm really thinking of just making a dummy power board to fit in the console. But back to your question, I don't know what happens if you do that. The original switch is a DPST, I believe, and kills the two AC legs after they come in from the external transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Fwiw, these could be replacements for the stock internal power connector. :-) Wasn't Tursi looking for these a while back? There's no "latch" on them, but the pitch and size is pretty identical. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc.hull Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 (edited) Maybe someone with an electronics background can comment... Is switching the common an acceptable way to do a power switch for this setup? Switching the common (or ground) is definately not a good practice. Does not isolate the voltage from the circuit only the return path. The only way to eliminate the voltage from the equipment in that scenario is to unplug it. In the US at least, switching neutrals is illeagle (NEC wise) in most if not all municipalities. Edited June 15, 2016 by marc.hull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Switching the common (or ground) is definately not a good practice. Does not isolate the voltage from the circuit only the return path. The only way to eliminate the voltage from the equipment in that scenario is to unplug it. Or a triple pole, single throw switch, if such an animal exists. :-) One can probably cut off everything except ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tursi Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Fwiw, these could be replacements for the stock internal power connector. :-) Wasn't Tursi looking for these a while back? No, I'm looking for cables. I've found and built cables with the exact right connectors before, but I don't want to build cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 No, I'm looking for cables. I've found and built cables with the exact right connectors before, but I don't want to build cables. Yeah, I have to Google how to crimp these and what kind of wire to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
globeron Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) I was wondering if it makes sense to find a replacement power adapter (as these special adapters are not easy to find) (note: this is the one with the big plug, even for /4 systems there are different adapters). I managed to obtain a broken one, then replaced fuses and it worked for a while, then the smoke came out, replaced that component and then broke it again and it seems the whole trafo need to be replaced), see pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y3kjbw4wzh7ilna/AAARBl0ltQbV2jRb0RXcA5Tba?dl=0 Was wondering with one of the meanwell or similar, to have a new one, but put it still in the "Shoe" housing if it is small enough. (I think it would be safer as well, before we get fire in the house) Edited June 19, 2016 by globeron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKarith Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) I'd need to take some measurements and compare to an engineering drawing, but I find this: That's 4PDT, which is more than you need, but you just wouldn't connect the other leg of the switch, and you can leave the 4th pole unconnected as well. You do need to worry about whether or not that switch can handle the power, and I haven't checked that yet either, but these do exist. Edited June 23, 2016 by iKarith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKarith Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 That won't do it electrically, no. This would. Again, no easily linked datasheet to know if the stem fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=323484&freeText=323484&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&krypto=kMYYrBxGZ%2FIkcdnuo5hUqyt6ivGbAhOMnipOb9eDgWhLZ7LzfwTatXj%2FQiusaTxLZdDNbB3MYtSm%0D%0AWXWCGyrU6w%3D%3D&ddkey=https%3ACookieLogon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Jon - I'd sure love to see the finished project written up complete with photos and a switch that works in a PDF document. That way for years to come people could download it, follow it's directions with links to all the parts and keep their TI's running. I've got an idea to modernize a console with this power supply and even add an F18A with an HDMI converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Would still like to see a PDF on this project. How many others have performed this MOD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKarith Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=323484&freeText=323484&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&krypto=kMYYrBxGZ%2FIkcdnuo5hUqyt6ivGbAhOMnipOb9eDgWhLZ7LzfwTatXj%2FQiusaTxLZdDNbB3MYtSm%0D%0AWXWCGyrU6w%3D%3D&ddkey=https%3ACookieLogon I think the right way to hook this up is to put it in an enclosure with ventilation and simply add a fuse and power switch to the input. You can actually get a fuse holder, switch, and IEC power connector in one combined thingy. Then it's just a matter of wiring the output somehow to your console. I'm still not quite sure how best to handle the console's power switch, aside from having three poles to switch 12v, 5v, and -5v on and off. Probably fine to leave ground connected so you don't actually need a 4PST. I much prefer the ATX-style standby + power signal, but this PSU doesn't have the means to do that. Wonder though if we could find an even better switch to replace power, maybe one with off, on, momentary that could also provide a reset? Hmm. They you might actually need the 4P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 As time goes on, more people are going to need this project to keep their own TI system alive and operating. Getting out in front of this project now, will save uncounted TI's down the road. I think many will agree that cannibalizing a working and more expensive console is a last result, others may not want to even bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mech Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 (edited) Been looking for an all in one PSU replacement and finally found a few of these: Note that it supports -5, +5, and +12V. Going to try and retrofit a five pin female DIN and put it in the case where the other PSU connector is. Will post pics when successful. Need to go get a nice Female DIN (preferably one with ears), and then I can start messing with this :-) Mouser seems to have these in stock, qty-75 at last look: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/GP25A13A-R1B/?qs=9HM%2FdYkAMWxfTvoxh7QCoA%3D%3D another link here: https://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=9HM%2fdYkAMWyys%252bfZ3GcTPA%3d%3d Edited November 13, 2017 by mech 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 I’m wondering if we can make a breadboard with a Switch to replace the internal board, and have a relay that simply turns on:off the three voltages with the SPST Switch. Ksarul? Want to call me and talk it through? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Mouser seems to have these in stock, qty-75 at last look: Aha, thanks for the heads up! I’m wondering if we can make a breadboard with a Switch to replace the internal board, and have a relay that simply turns on:off the three voltages with the SPST Switch. That sounds like it would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+helocast Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 I’m wondering if we can make a breadboard with a Switch to replace the internal board, and have a relay that simply turns on:off the three voltages with the SPST Switch. Ksarul? Want to call me and talk it through? :-) I apologize I never did a FORMAL write up - don't two QI so far, but the procedure was a lot of man-hours and not professional enough for this forum. 4PDT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-PC-Board-Relay-4PDT-2A-30VDC-4-5V-DC-Coil-121/260420189767 Another PS source: https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=2254151 Still trying to dig up ON-ON-MOM slide (momentary side wired to reset cap) I used, but probably from Digikey. LED was parts drawer RGB, .8mm Used a small protoboard to mount/solder the components. As you suggested, the key would be a small PCB for relay! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 I apologize I never did a FORMAL write up - don't two QI so far, but the procedure was a lot of man-hours and not professional enough for this forum. 4PDT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-PC-Board-Relay-4PDT-2A-30VDC-4-5V-DC-Coil-121/260420189767 Another PS source: https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=2254151 Still trying to dig up ON-ON-MOM slide (momentary side wired to reset cap) I used, but probably from Digikey. LED was parts drawer RGB, .8mm Used a small protoboard to mount/solder the components. As you suggested, the key would be a small PCB for relay! Kinda exactly what I was getting at! We can probably figure out how to create a mostly blank empty board to mount where we can just screw it in and the switch fits along with the relay. We'd have to get creative about mounting the DIN on the back like you did, or we can simply just have the person route the cable to a female DIN on the board with the switch and the relay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+helocast Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Kinda exactly what I was getting at! We can probably figure out how to create a mostly blank empty board to mount where we can just screw it in and the switch fits along with the relay. We'd have to get creative about mounting the DIN on the back like you did, or we can simply just have the person route the cable to a female DIN on the board with the switch and the relay. Went back and found my slide switch stash (was Mouser so adding that photo) - laid the slide in place and drilled through both ears of beige slide and plastic slide button of switch. LED was actually a 10mm, 8kmcd TLC5940 common anode from my 3D RGB Cube Project. What I meant, was that an 8mm would fit the existing cradle in the beige case bottom better (holdover from black case?). I just had to drill a visual hole not present in the beige case bottom. Well, that's about all the corrections I can think of in my hasty post earlier on the way out the door. Sorry. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Ksarul Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 I'll have to try and call you this weekend, Acadiel. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digdugnate Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 i am not electronically inclined in the slightest- so when you guys figure out all the details and have some worked up, i'll take two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 (edited) FINALLY I found this old thread! How did this turn out? ** EDIT ** Also confirming <<THIS>> is the power supply to buy? Edited July 17, 2019 by --- Ω --- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 I bet others are interested in this project as well. So far the only achilles heel I see is the switch mounting in the Black & Silver console. However once a 3D printed retainer is developed for a switch to use with the stock slider, everyone will be in business. I'm sure our resident go-to-guy arcadeshopper will carry them when available. ? Modernizing/Updating our TI's will give us decades (if we live that long) of fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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