guitarmas Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) I'm thinking about buying an SNES and I'm not sure what I should pay. I'm not looking for anything in the box. I just don't want any sort of yellowing on it or chipping and the power adapter port intact. I'm looking for all the connections and with at least 1 controller. Ideas? Just curious. Edited October 8, 2016 by guitarmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Well for a really minty gray console I would expect you to have to pay at least $60 shipped if not more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Well for a really minty gray console I would expect you to have to pay at least $60 shipped if not more. The price of clean grey consoles are more than $60 shipped now for sure. Maybe $60 plus shipping if you are very lucky. I see yellowed ones sell on ebay all day long for that much and more. It's sad but true. Super Nintendo's used to be a dime and dozen. Not so much anymore now that the SNES era kids have their own disposable income. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 The price of clean grey consoles are more than $60 shipped now for sure. Yeah I know but I figured people needed to be eased into it LOL. I could get min. $80 shipped for a system on ebay. Toss Mario World in and you get $125. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjameslv Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 I always try to hook up fellow AA members. I got a nice grey unit with everything i'd sell for $60 shipped PM sent. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Leach Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I've got a mini for sale. Pm me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 How much should I pay? Talk about a loaded question! I'd re-phrase and ask, "What's the current going rate?" Would you ask a car salesman, "How much should I pay for this used car?" or would you tell him, "It's only worth $_______ to me, take it or leave it." I've seen some real 'interesting' prices on eBay.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarmas Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 Thanks everyone. I have a larger grasp about the SNES console market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoreAddict Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 In case somebody else needs advice - don't consider retro bright as an alternative as in most cases the yellowing will return! The best option - apart from getting a "mint" unit - is to repaint a yellowed one. (Careful with VERY yellowed ones as the plastic becomes brittle too!) I have a Commodore 1084S monitor here which was repainted professionally and in the correct colors years ago and it looks perfect to this day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Leach Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I sold my mini for $75 shipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 In case somebody else needs advice - don't consider retro bright as an alternative as in most cases the yellowing will return! The yellowing will not return provided you seal it in some way (clearcoat) after you get it non-yellowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoreAddict Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 The yellowing will not return provided you seal it in some way (clearcoat) after you get it non-yellowed. I'm hearing A LOT of different things in this regard. While some say that using H2O2 isn't "strong" enough to dye plastics permanently - and recommend chlorine based dyes and worse - others say that H2O2 is TOO strong and plastics should only be dyed by using sunlight/ultraviolet light. And don't get me started on those who recommend dipping the plastics into diesel fuel (!) after the dyeing to keep it from getting more brittle. Sealing with clearcoat also came into my mind. Then again, AFAIK, it is the boron that is used in the plastics (to keep it from burning) which is evaporating and creating the yellow oxidation in the process. So, even if you seal the surface the boron will keep on evaporating as the material basically keeps dissolving further and further once the process has been started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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