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Atari 800XL - restoration


16 replies to this topic

#1 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 11, 2016 2:35 AM

I just wanted to share my latest restoration project ;)

 

https://www.retrohax...-restoration-2/



#2 shoestring OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 11, 2016 3:17 AM

Nice job.

The Borat photo at the end made me chuckle :)

#3 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 11, 2016 4:21 AM

Looks good. You can purchase a high quality replacement case badge here:

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 182185827000

 

The peroxide treatment is usually called "Retr0Brite", but your observation that sunlight is not an absolute requirement is quite correct. Indeed, direct sunlight is a major cause of drying and blooming. The more slowly the process occurs, the more long lasting it tends to be, although patience is required.

 

Acetone vapour treatment of the keys is an interesting technique. They look a little over-shiny, but it's appealing nonetheless.



#4 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 11, 2016 5:01 AM

Thx guys.

 

@fjz , I am experimenting with whitening for around 4 years ;) Look at other posts on my blog for different methods.

 

Correlation of time and longevity of "white" is wrong IMO. If you treat plastic with peroxide for a longer time , say 7 days , sun is not required, warmth is. However, molecules that are removed by a peroxide in the process leave plastic surface very porous and that is direct cause of "yellow" color coming back faster.

Only method is to fill porous surface with transparent paint for example. That will definitely slow down the process. However, you will not be able to whiten it again.



#5 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Oct 11, 2016 5:28 AM

Yes, Retr0Brite was first documented in 2008, but there are many variations on the described method (personally, I don't bother with the Oxy: it does more harm than good, IMO).

 

Interesting regarding longevity of treatment. I can't say I've ever done a week-long treatment; something in the order of two days constitutes a slow treatment for me. :) I'm still not absolutely certain whether it's better to - say - stick XL parts under strong sunlight for a few hours (in which case, careful administration is required to remove dried-out peroxide and re-coat the parts), or leave them for a longer period of time in less intense light. The "fast" method produces sparkling results, but it takes months to evaluate the long-term effects. XE cases are a different proposition, since the colour can be easily damaged by heavy-handed, rapid treatment.

 

I once treated a 1200XL and - once it was factory-fresh - coated it with anti-UV satin lacquer. It went yellow again within six months, however, so I had to undertake the complex process of removing the lacquer. I won't be trying that again. :)



#6 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 12, 2016 6:22 AM


 I'm still not absolutely certain whether it's better to - say - stick XL parts under strong sunlight for a few hours (in which case, careful administration is required to remove dried-out peroxide and re-coat the parts), or leave them for a longer period of time in less intense light. The "fast" method produces sparkling results, but it takes months to evaluate the long-term effects. XE cases are a different proposition, since the colour can be easily damaged by heavy-handed, rapid treatment.

 

 

 

 

You should definitely try long term (like 5+ days) method but warmth is crucial here. You will be surprised how well it works compared to sunlight exposure. Plus, it requires NO WORK at all.


Edited by drygol, Wed Oct 12, 2016 6:23 AM.


#7 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 12, 2016 8:13 AM

I haven't yet tried Oxy or anything like "RetOBrite" for any of the Atari's I've restored/refurbished, but the ones I've done, both XE and XL, have been so "yellowed" from I can only guess direct sunlight from sitting in front of a window, that they looked Bronze. I've taken the paint and clear-coat route thus far. I don't recall the color of gray I used for the XE's a decade ago, but I've found for the XL that Krylon satin ivory is an excellent match for XL 'white", I have yet to find a match for XL brown, but I also haven't needed to paint the original equipment brown, I just use it on third party products mostly I paint to match or at least be somewhat color coordinated. The clear coat is apparently an important step no matter what. I always use satin paints as they most closely match the reflective qualities of the original plastic, especially the textured areas, and the clear coat is matte.

 

But I have a 1200Xl and 1050 cases that are just slightly yellowed, not even noticeable unless they are right next to other XL peripherals without yellowing (which they are), so I was thinking of trying the Oxy or peroxide methods for them, and maybe not have to leave the case in quite so long and acquire quite so much surface damage in the process.   


Edited by Gunstar, Wed Oct 12, 2016 8:16 AM.


#8 cjameslv OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 12, 2016 8:53 AM

That came out nice! I use vapor baths for some of my 3d prints but never thought to try it on other things before. Very interesting read, thanks.



#9 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 12, 2016 10:00 AM

I'll have to try the acetone bath on a 600XL and 800XL I have when the time comes.


Edited by Gunstar, Wed Oct 12, 2016 10:03 AM.


#10 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 12, 2016 1:35 PM

Guys, just remember to keep keycaps in vapor no longer than a second or two. You can always repeat it if needed but the shorter you keep it in hot vapor the better the outcome.Acctually in CPC464 post on my blog there is this process shown on movie.

For dark colors of keycaps, like in XL series also consider cleaning in sodium hydroxide (strong and caustic solution WARNING) but better test it on something cheap and not important.

I've tested it on c64 , amstrad and 800xl and also on amiga 600 keycaps - all details posted already too.


Edited by drygol, Wed Oct 12, 2016 1:40 PM.


#11 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jun 1, 2018 10:05 AM

Here is another Atari 800 XL that I worked on recently ;)

 

First part is already posted -> https://www.retrohax...00-xl-part-one/

Second part is being written right now ;P



#12 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jun 1, 2018 10:17 AM

Here is another Atari 800 XL that I worked on recently ;)

 

First part is already posted -> https://www.retrohax...00-xl-part-one/

Second part is being written right now ;P

That's crazy!  Awesome work.



#13 ivop OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jun 1, 2018 11:44 AM

Looking forward to part two!



#14 Tezz OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jun 1, 2018 12:55 PM

Here is another Atari 800 XL that I worked on recently ;)

 

First part is already posted -> https://www.retrohax...00-xl-part-one/

Second part is being written right now ;P

Great stuff, I've also been busy repairing and restoring some XLs recently, one of which was in a similar extreme condition. I have some new restoration tips to post here shortly. I'm interested to hear how successful the vacuum resin injection turns out with the lens.


Edited by Tezz, Fri Jun 1, 2018 1:05 PM.


#15 drygol OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:56 PM

Thanks for kind words :)

Here is a part two of this project.

https://www.retrohax...00-xl-part-two/



#16 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jun 12, 2018 3:20 PM

Well, I admire your patience and exceptional skill, but I would not invest such effort in such a sorry specimen until the number of remaining 800XLs in the world was down to single figures. :)



#17 Tezz OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jun 12, 2018 3:31 PM

This is brilliant Drygol, well done :thumbsup: I love this level of repair and restoration. Not many of us will go so far to rescue an XL from oblivion.

 

I started writing up my restoration project earlier today, I'm happy to see we both refered to the keyboard as a banana :)

 

I've always wanted to have a go at creating a mold and replicating plastic parts. The XL lens could be reproduced with resin for example like this car light lens ..

 


Edited by Tezz, Tue Jun 12, 2018 3:35 PM.





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